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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-27-2013 02:00 PM
benchracer1 Ill let you know how it works....Steve
02-27-2013 09:52 AM
69 widetrack Your last comment is not uncommon. It will feel as though you are spending as much time cleaning up the paint job as it took to prep it. Then, just when you get better, you start spending more time prepping the paint job to get it straighter and to give you that better substrate so you can lay that beautiful, flawless paint job on it. After that you still cut and polish it. It's called the pursuit of perfection and not to worry, that's one difference between a painter and an applicator.

The light sanding scratches may be from not spending enough time using the finer grits. What the idea is when you move from one grit to a finer grit is to remove the previous grits sand scratches. Make sure your paper and surface is clean as well, any little piece of junk will just get rubbed into the paint and look like sand scratches. Also, keep your water clean and I like to use warm water, it cuts better and helps clean your surface and paper. For now, if you want to get rid of the scratches that you see, follow the steps that I've just outlined with fine paper over the area that has the scratches and run the polisher over it again. The do come out eventually.

I hope this helps.

Ray
02-26-2013 11:02 PM
benchracer1 I went ahead with color sanding. I did 1000, 1500, 2000. I then took a wool pad and used meguiars 85 followed by a foam pad with meguiars 83. This was recomemnde to me by a meguiars rep. It came out pretty damn good. I can however see some light sanding scratches under the flourescent shop light. Is there another step that can get rid of this? Im looking forward to the day when I can spray a coat of paint and just buff it and move on. I feel that I spend as much time cleaning up the paint job as I do prepping for it LOL
02-20-2013 08:15 PM
mitmaks
Quote:
Originally Posted by benchracer1 View Post
actually I was a bit inaccurate in my post. I was going to go 1000, 1500 and then 2000. I have been using a harbor freight polisher for the last several years. I am finding it to be heavy and a bit awkward. Does anybody make a lighter unit? I also have several areas that are difficult to get at with a power buffer. Is it possible to do a satisfactory job by hand in these areas?
I have cheap polisher but would recommend a DeWalt (what I use at work) it runs much smoother and is a little bit lighter. For smaller/tight areas I use 3" polisher from Harbor Freight, works great.
02-20-2013 11:05 AM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by da34guy View Post
Ditto on the trizact 3000, but go 1 step farther to 4000 trizact and hand polish with a light compound and microfiber towel.
Makes it EZ
As much as I agree with you da34guy about using 4,000 grit, at about $10 a pad from 3M it does get pricey, but, will it make hand polishing faster, without a doubt...EZ...It might be my age, but hand polishing is never EZ...LOL....easier, yes.

Ray
02-20-2013 11:01 AM
69 widetrack There are many company's that make lighter polisher's that have better speed control. Most quality air tool manufacturer's make polishers. These polisher's are, like many things, personal preference. I was fortunate in the fact that I went from body shop to body shop when I was a paint rep and tried out many different brands until I found the one that I felt worked for me. It might be worth a few calls to local shops and get opinions from the painters and or detailers in those shops...if they let you hold one in your hands that's even better...that way you can check it out for balance, speed and agility.

Ray
02-20-2013 10:56 AM
da34guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
It is possible to hand polish those tight areas that a polisher can't get into, but, be prepared for lots of rubbing. In those hard to get at areas, follow the same cutting procedure you normally would, just make sure that you finish extremely fine, I like to finish areas like that with 3,000 Grit Trizac from 3M. Other company's make a 3,000 grit product for less money but in the long run, you save time and energy by stepping up to a quality product like 3M. Use the same polish and a micro fiber towel, lots of elbow grease and it'll come out like the rest of the vehicle.

Ray
Ditto on the trizact 3000, but go 1 step farther to 4000 trizact and hand polish with a light compound and microfiber towel.
Makes it EZ
02-20-2013 10:49 AM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by benchracer1 View Post
actually I was a bit inaccurate in my post. I was going to go 1000, 1500 and then 2000. I have been using a harbor freight polisher for the last several years. I am finding it to be heavy and a bit awkward. Does anybody make a lighter unit? I also have several areas that are difficult to get at with a power buffer. Is it possible to do a satisfactory job by hand in these areas?
It is possible to hand polish those tight areas that a polisher can't get into, but, be prepared for lots of rubbing. In those hard to get at areas, follow the same cutting procedure you normally would, just make sure that you finish extremely fine, I like to finish areas like that with 3,000 Grit Trizac from 3M. Other company's make a 3,000 grit product for less money but in the long run, you save time and energy by stepping up to a quality product like 3M. Use the same polish and a micro fiber towel, lots of elbow grease and it'll come out like the rest of the vehicle.

Ray
02-20-2013 10:39 AM
benchracer1 actually I was a bit inaccurate in my post. I was going to go 1000, 1500 and then 2000. I have been using a harbor freight polisher for the last several years. I am finding it to be heavy and a bit awkward. Does anybody make a lighter unit? I also have several areas that are difficult to get at with a power buffer. Is it possible to do a satisfactory job by hand in these areas?
02-20-2013 05:27 AM
da34guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by benchracer1 View Post
Went ahead and resprayed a few panels. Damn if i didnt take adeep breath and get a run on the door. All in all it camevout pretty good. I am sanding it with 1000 followed by 2000. I am then going to buff it with meguiars 95 and 93. Guess i need to practice breathing
Don't skip ftom 1000 to 2000
Go -1000,1200,1500,2000
Then buff !
02-19-2013 07:35 PM
benchracer1 Went ahead and resprayed a few panels. Damn if i didnt take adeep breath and get a run on the door. All in all it camevout pretty good. I am sanding it with 1000 followed by 2000. I am then going to buff it with meguiars 95 and 93. Guess i need to practice breathing
02-11-2013 05:46 PM
Mad Tiki Customs
Quote:
Originally Posted by benchracer1 View Post
shooting white on white is very difficult for me
Blending white is always a challenge. It wants to lay on top of the paint your trying to blend it on. Using a blending agent helps a great deal.
02-11-2013 05:32 PM
Mad Tiki Customs One of the things I do when I have a sand through is use the SEM brand aerosol etch primer. You can spot it in and once dry sand it with 600Grit and seal that spot. Also keep in mind that sealer has a small window, that once passed, needs to be sanded with 600Grit before painting.
02-03-2013 01:19 PM
69 widetrack Shooting white on white is difficult for every painter so your not alone...everything else...sounds good.

Ray
02-03-2013 12:23 PM
benchracer1 shooting white on white is very difficult for me
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