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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-04-2013 12:27 PM
F-BIRD'88 Order Jeg's #555-60431

The max stall speed will only be realized at the drag strip when launching from a stop, on slicks.
The "flash stall" (the actual stall speed you see when launching the car) will be on the lower end of the rated stall scale for any converter as it is only a 327 and only makes so much engine torque.

This converter wil drive very nicely on the street in your Nova and allows the cammed 327 to
perform like it should and idle correctly in gear and accelerate from a stop properly, even at small throttle inputs. Again max stall is only achived at max WOT with maximum tire traction.
So don't get all up about it. Drive it.

Then get some sticky Mickey Thompson ET Street tires (8.5x26x15) and some Nova traction bars and go to the strip with it.
You will see just how good a lil 327 Nova can run.
02-04-2013 10:42 AM
F-BIRD'88 Select the converter with the higher ratee stall speed for the two.
They will "drive" the same. The actual stall behind a 327 will be on the low side
of the advertized stall speeds. (less engine torque='s a lower real stall)
Takes about a week to get used to a stall but they drive just fine on the street.
You never want to match a high stall up with a hiway gear.
The 4.10's are just right. Reports are the the Jegs XHD converters work really good.
02-04-2013 10:40 AM
vinniekq2 I know you have 4.10s,I read that already. I dont think you need to be that aggressive with the distributor with that little cam. I would first try the idle settings with the timing at 18 ish initial. I run 18 at idle with a bigger cam,but I do need a little more.I just have my total capped at 34 for now. You can do the same and test drive with pull power pulls set at 34 degrees and 36 to make sure there is no pinging.
If after doing both tests you will know where the static needs to be and where the total needs to be.Simple,pull distributor and find someone with a distributor machine.
with 4.1 gears the actual time spent at wot and under 3,000 rpm is short,so your part throttle tuning is all you need to worry about. The 2400 rpm converter means that the only part throttle rpm range is 2,000 - 3,000. At full power acceleration its only between 2400 rpm and 3000 rpm that you have to worry about ignition curve. If you race the car a lot,then maybe invest in a race converter.
I would spend time on the carb and fine tune the A/F ratio. you pick the numbers you want,IE; 13:1 at wot for good power,good plug life and perky acceleration,or 12:1 at wot for more power but not as good plug life and not as perky at part throttle.
If you tune on a Mustang or similar dyno you can tune the car for both.
You would do this by making primary throttle runs(disable secondary linkage) and tune for 12.8-13:1 a/f then make a few pull with the secondaries re attached and aim for 12:1 a/f
you might drive the car awhile then go back and retune again.Its not always maximum power that makes the best driver.You want to enjoy all parts of driving the car.The street driving is 98% of the use you will have for it.
02-04-2013 10:09 AM
nova68 I have 4.10s right now(already said that) and also said I wanted a mostly cruiser with with few runs on the strip. I am going to try the lock out timing and see what happens. I called mallory they can make my dizzy do 10 degrees mechanical advance if I have too. Also they make a start retard box for under 300.
02-04-2013 06:53 AM
vinniekq2 If you are not a serious racer,then do not buy a big converter.
you should be specific and detailed as to the finished product you want. same thing for rear gear set
02-04-2013 06:47 AM
nova68 90 percent street 10 percent strip. probably run it couple times a summer at the local track
02-03-2013 11:27 PM
thinwhiteduke I think he's just street'in the car??

02-03-2013 10:30 PM
vinniekq2 are you racing the car? just wondering,if you have a big stall for maximum launch
02-03-2013 09:00 PM
nova68 jegs xhd 3200-3500 or jegs 3500-3800?
I am going to cancel cam order for now.
02-03-2013 08:54 PM
Originally Posted by nova68 View Post
Yeah I will have to lock it out then. Mine only goes to 14. I have the Mallory hyfire box 6al. I assume I still want the wire going to the 12v switched power? As for power valve 4.5 will be close?
Ya the hyfire should be the same. Read the wiring directions.
It will be a 3.5" or a 4.5" power valve.
Do not buy less than a 10" 3500 stall converter for this cam in a 327.
Does not need to be a mega $$ race converter. Just a decent 10" 3500+ stall.
You get what you pay for.
B&M ATI, Jeg's XHD,,, TCI, Hugh's etc.
Do not be shy with the converter stall for this cam in a 327.
02-03-2013 08:53 PM
cam swap

Originally Posted by nova68 View Post
The cam I ordered is not alot smaller no, but the lobe seperation is 112 vs my old cams 106. So I know that will have a pretty big effect on getting going. Should move the powerband down also correct? Yes i understand I will give up peak power for a flat power band. I know the cam powerbands are based on a 350, which according to comp cam is 1800-6200 for the l79 plus. So I figured 2000ish for the 327? That why I said 2400 converter? Correct me If i am wrong. It is still not to late to cancel my order.
the wider lobe center moves the power up,not will likely see no difference
02-03-2013 08:46 PM
nova68 Yeah I will have to lock it out then. Mine only goes to 14. I have the Mallory hyfire box 6al. I assume I still want the wire going to the 12v switched power? As for power valve 4.5 will be close?
02-03-2013 08:45 PM
thinwhiteduke 68'nova, I got a similar cam to you, prolly bit bigger, in a 350
Some of my mates got similar and even bigger cams in their sbc's and they got fumey rich idles, fouling plugs, rough idles etc etc. Real PITA to drive on the street.
When I built my latest engine, I followed F-BIRD'ss tuning recommendations (locked out timing, yada yada) to the 'tee' because he sounded like he knew what he was talking about, and he does... Mine idles smoooth, clean like a taxi cab, rock solid @900 rpm, even down to 700rpm with a bit of shake , super responsive , goes like stink, yet my mother could drive it to go grocery shopping. Well, not really, cause she would poo her pants, but you know what I mean. I'd stick with the cam you got, mine has REAL good street manners the way it's 'set-up'.

Hope this helps, FWIW

02-03-2013 08:40 PM
Originally Posted by nova68 View Post
I have the Mallory comp s/s dizzy has to have the box to run. How would I wire that for hot starts? I think I could figure out how to lock out advance on it.
Get the part number and download the mallory instructions .
Some of these have a fully adjustable advance system
that allows limiting it to 10deg travel.

26 at idle 36 @ max advance.... 10deg curve
do not use the lightest springs. too sloppy inconsistant.
you ant a smooth curve that peaks about 2800-3200 rpm
and is rock stable at idle., in and out of gear. (it must not drop off)

or simply lock it out.

If using a MSD 6A box the little red wire is the power switching wire.
This is the power switch on off wire that normally goes to the KEY "on"
12V on. Install the toggle switch inline on this switching wire.

Not the big RED wire.

Don;t be surprised at all if "locked out" is just right for this motor.

Because this motor was never set up correctly it probabily needs new fresh spark plugs.
02-03-2013 08:31 PM
nova68 I have the Mallory comp s/s dizzy has to have the box to run. How would I wire that for hot starts? I think I could figure out how to lock out advance on it.
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