|02-04-2013 10:40 AM|
I know you have 4.10s,I read that already. I dont think you need to be that aggressive with the distributor with that little cam. I would first try the idle settings with the timing at 18 ish initial. I run 18 at idle with a bigger cam,but I do need a little more.I just have my total capped at 34 for now. You can do the same and test drive with pull power pulls set at 34 degrees and 36º to make sure there is no pinging.
If after doing both tests you will know where the static needs to be and where the total needs to be.Simple,pull distributor and find someone with a distributor machine.
with 4.1 gears the actual time spent at wot and under 3,000 rpm is short,so your part throttle tuning is all you need to worry about. The 2400 rpm converter means that the only part throttle rpm range is 2,000 - 3,000. At full power acceleration its only between 2400 rpm and 3000 rpm that you have to worry about ignition curve. If you race the car a lot,then maybe invest in a race converter.
I would spend time on the carb and fine tune the A/F ratio. you pick the numbers you want,IE; 13:1 at wot for good power,good plug life and perky acceleration,or 12:1 at wot for more power but not as good plug life and not as perky at part throttle.
If you tune on a Mustang or similar dyno you can tune the car for both.
You would do this by making primary throttle runs(disable secondary linkage) and tune for 12.8-13:1 a/f then make a few pull with the secondaries re attached and aim for 12:1 a/f
you might drive the car awhile then go back and retune again.Its not always maximum power that makes the best driver.You want to enjoy all parts of driving the car.The street driving is 98% of the use you will have for it.
|02-04-2013 10:09 AM|
|nova68||I have 4.10s right now(already said that) and also said I wanted a mostly cruiser with with few runs on the strip. I am going to try the lock out timing and see what happens. I called mallory they can make my dizzy do 10 degrees mechanical advance if I have too. Also they make a start retard box for under 300.|
|02-04-2013 06:53 AM|
If you are not a serious racer,then do not buy a big converter.
you should be specific and detailed as to the finished product you want. same thing for rear gear set
|02-04-2013 06:47 AM|
|nova68||90 percent street 10 percent strip. probably run it couple times a summer at the local track|
|02-03-2013 11:27 PM|
I think he's just street'in the car??
|02-03-2013 10:30 PM|
|vinniekq2||are you racing the car? just wondering,if you have a big stall for maximum launch|
|02-03-2013 09:00 PM|
jegs xhd 3200-3500 or jegs 3500-3800?
I am going to cancel cam order for now.
|02-03-2013 08:53 PM|
|02-03-2013 08:46 PM|
|nova68||Yeah I will have to lock it out then. Mine only goes to 14. I have the Mallory hyfire box 6al. I assume I still want the wire going to the 12v switched power? As for power valve 4.5 will be close?|
|02-03-2013 08:45 PM|
68'nova, I got a similar cam to you, prolly bit bigger, in a 350
Some of my mates got similar and even bigger cams in their sbc's and they got fumey rich idles, fouling plugs, rough idles etc etc. Real PITA to drive on the street.
When I built my latest engine, I followed F-BIRD'ss tuning recommendations (locked out timing, yada yada) to the 'tee' because he sounded like he knew what he was talking about, and he does... Mine idles smoooth, clean like a taxi cab, rock solid @900 rpm, even down to 700rpm with a bit of shake , super responsive , goes like stink, yet my mother could drive it to go grocery shopping. Well, not really, cause she would poo her pants, but you know what I mean. I'd stick with the cam you got, mine has REAL good street manners the way it's 'set-up'.
Hope this helps, FWIW
|02-03-2013 08:31 PM|
|nova68||I have the Mallory comp s/s dizzy has to have the box to run. How would I wire that for hot starts? I think I could figure out how to lock out advance on it.|
|02-03-2013 07:27 PM|
|nova68||holy crap 26 degrees that should help with take off correct? run cooler? would edelbrock thunder series with electric choke be ok to swap too?|
|02-03-2013 07:10 PM|
Why would I need a 3000 stall?
It has a 2000 stall from my old 350. I know that is wrong for the motor, i didnt know any better back then. I guess when you say re-tune I dont get what you mean. motor is set at 16 degrees and total timing is 36 around 3500ish?
I was going to get a 3500 stall and 4.56 gears or 4.88s, but want a car that I can drive, not run at the strip.
I hate the holley double pumper i was always messing with it.
|02-03-2013 06:55 PM|
|nova68||The cam I ordered is not alot smaller no, but the lobe seperation is 112 vs my old cams 106. So I know that will have a pretty big effect on getting going. Should move the powerband down also correct? Yes i understand I will give up peak power for a flat power band. I know the cam powerbands are based on a 350, which according to comp cam is 1800-6200 for the l79 plus. So I figured 2000ish for the 327? That why I said 2400 converter? Correct me If i am wrong. It is still not to late to cancel my order.|
|02-03-2013 12:36 PM|
|nova68||I ended up ordering the comp cams nostalgia l79 kit. Going to run edelbrock 650 with current air gap intake and mallory ignition setup. I was told by the guy that built it they were the 2.02 heads. Hopefully he didnt lie. Going to run a 2400 stall along with 4.11 gears with trac lock. If it doesnt work live and learn. I still want to build a 406 sbc|
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