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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-11-2013 07:19 AM
cobalt327 Thanks, a lot of guys have added their knowledge to those pages through the years.

For the most part, hard parts from Summit and Jegs, etc. are fine. Even things like camshafts from Summit have shown to be good quality.

That said, there ARE some parts that are coming in from overseas (China, mostly) that you have to be careful of. Some are OK, others not so much.

If you want to, toss out what you are thinking about getting before ordering and get some opinions on them.

In the meantime, if you do a search here and on the internet in general, you can get reviews on the different manufacturers. One databank is Hotrodders company reviews.

When you get into the chinese speed parts, there are varying opinions. Some guys do not like them because they come from a communist nation, others have problems w/the quality. I'll leave the decision to you on how you spend your money.
02-10-2013 08:04 AM
vaughn bros
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Bummer! I didn't want to think the reason the lifter wasn't holding pressure was due to it being worn all the way through the lifter, into the oil chamber. But that's what has happened.

No repairing that lifter, and the cam is toast, too. I can only give you my best advice: Do not try to salvage the lifters (ANY of them), and do not try to reuse the cam. The result will be 100% failure. No way will another lifter EVER run on that lobe that the bad lifter was on- no way, no how.

This is a tough break, but it happens. After you have cleaned the engine out and inspected the bearings and such, use the following info to help avoid any more problems:

Valve train points to check
Cam break in
Adjusting hydraulic lifters
Your links are great by the way.
02-10-2013 07:55 AM
vaughn bros
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Bummer! I didn't want to think the reason the lifter wasn't holding pressure was due to it being worn all the way through the lifter, into the oil chamber. But that's what has happened.

No repairing that lifter, and the cam is toast, too. I can only give you my best advice: Do not try to salvage the lifters (ANY of them), and do not try to reuse the cam. The result will be 100% failure. No way will another lifter EVER run on that lobe that the bad lifter was on- no way, no how.

This is a tough break, but it happens. After you have cleaned the engine out and inspected the bearings and such, use the following info to help avoid any more problems:

Valve train points to check
Cam break in
Adjusting hydraulic lifters
Your links are great by the way.
02-10-2013 07:52 AM
vaughn bros We are not going any further. Its time for a teardown as you guys prescribed. I would like to hear the opinions about the new parts going back in. We wanted to get everything from Chevrolet. Or is Summit Jegs Speedway just as good. I read stories about aftermarket hard parts being kinda soft.
02-10-2013 06:02 AM
vaughn bros We understand, thanks again.
02-09-2013 09:29 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaughn bros View Post
This may be too damaged to repair but I aint got a choice.
Bummer! I didn't want to think the reason the lifter wasn't holding pressure was due to it being worn all the way through the lifter, into the oil chamber. But that's what has happened.

No repairing that lifter, and the cam is toast, too. I can only give you my best advice: Do not try to salvage the lifters (ANY of them), and do not try to reuse the cam. The result will be 100% failure. No way will another lifter EVER run on that lobe that the bad lifter was on- no way, no how.

This is a tough break, but it happens. After you have cleaned the engine out and inspected the bearings and such, use the following info to help avoid any more problems:

Valve train points to check
Cam break in
Adjusting hydraulic lifters
02-09-2013 04:33 PM
RWENUTS Nice lifter!!
Too bad about the flat cam and all that loose metal in your motor too!
Rebuild time.
02-09-2013 02:17 PM
vaughn bros This may be too damaged to repair but I aint got a choice.
02-07-2013 10:01 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaughn bros View Post
Colbalt327 Thanks again. We decided to go with the pull the manifold and do the lifters job. I am still trying to figure out what engine specs I have. The engine block number is 3782870, its got 350?, heads, and I dont know whats inside. Last week it ran like a 60's rail dragster. We **n luv it and dont want to damage it.

I think I will get a full set of lifters at the Chevrolet dealership. I also saw a little bit of damage on 2 pushrods right at the oil hole so they will get replaced too. But I wonder if I should loose my cast iron intake and go to aluminum? I like the cast iron intake.

Also about the vacuum for the distributor. There are two ports I question. My distributor is hooked up to "A". Should it be hooked up to "B" instead? Thanks.
OK, just saw this. Before ordering up a set of lifters that you may not need, get the one bad one out and take it apart and see what you can see.

I would much prefer you to use just the plunger from a new lifter in your old lifter body (replace the guts, in other words), than to try to get away with using a new lifter (or a set of new lifters) on a used cam. Fixing the original lifter by cleaning is the best case. Next to that, replacing the guts of the old lifter, then next would be to use only ONE lifter to replace the unrepairable lifter. Last choice, and one I just cannot recommend under ANY circumstances, is to replace ALL the lifters with new ones.

The reason is pretty simple, really. If one lifter is replaced, only one lobe and one lifter will be ground up into the motor oil to act as sandpaper to ruin the engine. If the entire set of lifters are replaced, the chances are more than one lifter and cam lobe will fail, and the amount of sandpaper in the engine will be a lot greater.

If it turns out that the bad lifter is trashed on the bottom where it contacts the cam, consider the cam trashed, too. In that case, replace the cam AND lifters as a set. It sounds expensive, I know. But it's less expensive than replacing the lifter(s), then having to tear the engine back down again to clean it of the ground up metal caused if/when the cam and lifter fail, then having to replace the lifters a second time along with a new cam, including another set of gaskets and more oil and filter.

BTW, be sure to use this link to the page on taking the lifter apart.

Intake:
An aluminum intake would be a good addition to your engine. Especially if you're using an adapter to mount a Holley carb on an intake made for a spreadbore Q-jet carb.

If your truck has a mild cam I might go with an Edelbrock Performer EPS (p/n 2701 for satin finish, for '86-back heads).
If the cam is bigger, I'd use a non Air Gap Edelbrock RPM (p/n 7101, satin, for '86-back heads).

BUT before buying an intake, you need to see what heads you have. The bolt holes changed on '86-'95 heads, then again on '96-up heads.

Having 15 inches of vacuum could mean you have a bigger than stock cam, or it might need more initial timing. It might even have a vacuum leak. Does it have a "lope" to the idle, or is it very smooth?

Ignition:
You are hooked up to ported vacuum. It might run better using manifold vacuum (the vacuum port on the baseplate). Try it and see. The problem is sometimes the vacuum advance gives too much advance. Usually 10 to 12 degrees added vacuum advance is about right if you're using manifold vacuum and a good amount of initial timing. It won't hurt to try using manifold vacuum, though. You will find that it will increase the idle speed, so be ready to lower it and to readjust the idle mixture screws to get the highest idle speed, or highest vacuum if you have a gauge.
02-06-2013 05:38 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaughn bros View Post
I had to stop and slowly re read what you said. I understand about the cam and lifter wearing as one. I will attempt the cleaning and restoring my original lifter but if it's toast, then I guess I would have to replace it and hope for the best?
Likely cleaning it will be all it needs. In an extreme case where the plunger is toast, I recommend replacing the plunger and reusing the original lifter body. The link I meant to give you is here. It has more detail.

If the foot of the lifter is too worn, replacing the lifter w/a new one will likely result in a ruined cam and ground up metal all through the engine which can take out the bearings, or worse. In that case, replacement of the cam and all the lifters is called for.
02-06-2013 02:17 PM
vaughn bros
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
............ You can't usually get away with replacing a lifter w/a new lifter on a cam that has already been used because the lifter and cam wear in together..
I had to stop and slowly re read what you said. I understand about the cam and lifter wearing as one. I will attempt the cleaning and restoring my original lifter but if it's toast, then I guess I would have to replace it and hope for the best?
02-06-2013 01:09 PM
vaughn bros Colbalt327 Thanks again. We decided to go with the pull the manifold and do the lifters job. I am still trying to figure out what engine specs I have. The engine block number is 3782870, its got 350?, heads, and I dont know whats inside. Last week it ran like a 60's rail dragster. We **n luv it and dont want to damage it.



I think I will get a full set of lifters at the Chevrolet dealership. I also saw a little bit of damage on 2 pushrods right at the oil hole so they will get replaced too. But I wonder if I should loose my cast iron intake and go to aluminum? I like the cast iron intake.

Also about the vacuum for the distributor. There are two ports I question. My distributor is hooked up to "A". Should it be hooked up to "B" instead? Thanks.

02-06-2013 12:11 PM
cobalt327 Yeah, to get to the lifter the intake has to come off. Not a huge deal, but hopefully you can avoid that if it stays running like it should.

Good luck!
02-06-2013 12:02 PM
vaughn bros
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
After the lifter is adjusted you still will be able to push it down.

For whatever reason, that lifter is not filling or is not retaining the oil that it uis supposed to fill with when the engine is running.

If the lifter is plugged and is unable to fill with oil when the engine is running, the lifter will be noisy, performance will be off and the valvetrain (cam, lifter, p-rod, rocker arm) could be damaged.

Sometimes the lifter can be removed, taken apart and cleaned, then returned to the engine. You can't usually get away with replacing a lifter w/a new lifter on a cam that has already been used because the lifter and cam wear in together.

More on repairing a lifter is here.
PERFECT PERFECT! Thanks. I adjusted it at the top. And like you said, after its adjusted, I can still push it down(and it springs right back). I started the engine and it runs now WITHOUT THAT DEADLY CLICK. I thank you again.
It does seem that I have a lifter that is not staying full of oil. I guess its removing the intake and whatnot, do you agree?
I will worry about timing after I get things back together with new lifter(or rebuilding lifter), or all new lifters. Im just happy to see what may have been my problem all along.
02-06-2013 11:42 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaughn bros View Post
Thanks for the reply. I need to study everything you said before I answer you back. However, I am working the problem related to the last thing you said.
Do you mean,,,After the valve is adjusted, I should or should not be able to push the rocker down this extra .140 travel? Its pretty easy to push down.
Do I need to remove all clearances (this .140) and then adjust the valve? Thanks.
After the lifter is adjusted you still will be able to push it down.

For whatever reason, that lifter is not filling or is not retaining the oil that it uis supposed to fill with when the engine is running.

If the lifter is plugged and is unable to fill with oil when the engine is running, the lifter will be noisy, performance will be off and the valvetrain (cam, lifter, p-rod, rocker arm) could be damaged.

Sometimes the lifter can be removed, taken apart and cleaned, then returned to the engine. You can't usually get away with replacing a lifter w/a new lifter on a cam that has already been used because the lifter and cam wear in together.

More on repairing a lifter is here.
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