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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-15-2003 04:26 PM
1BAD80 If you build the 400 correctly with the steam holes in the heads you wont have any problem. This was a problem about 20 years ago, when we did not know to much. The 400 was made to be a truck motor and run at 3000 RPM. Then it was revised for cars.
In the Knowledge Base there are numerous postings to this subject on hot to fix it from heating up.
In traffic like cruising Woodward, 18 mi. long, takes about 1 mile an hour and mostly idling, my car went all the way up to 185*, again its all in the blueprinting of the engine, this is a 427 small block, mechanical pump, thermo clutch fan and stock radiator.
Just have to do a little reading like the one site from grapeape, and the KB has plenty sites.
11-14-2003 02:14 PM
tm454 They might be more efficient Jeff but those things look UGLY, I believe thats why the fan shroud was originally invented, to hide those things!!! The innovations in electric water pumps is astounding, I want to run 30 to 40 degrees cooler with the electric pump and an electric fan, and it looks COOL TOO! Then there is the four core aluminum radiators too! Also running a separate trans cooling system will drop the engine temp a bit. And every bit helps keep the engine from overheating in traffic.


Rat Rods Rule!
11-14-2003 10:40 AM
electric fans and pumps, not o great?!?

I just read an article yesterday that said a clutch fan and mechanical pump would be a more effecient way of cooling your rod.

Here's the article:

11-14-2003 07:51 AM
tm454 I am planning to use an electric water pump on my 400/406 because they are notorious for having overheating problems. Then I'll use a BIG electric fan to pull the air through the radiator. I saw it done on the speed vision show?? The advantage to the long and short neck water pumps is it allows you to get closer to the radiator for better cooling too. The problem is you need a complets set of pullies to go with the long and short neck setup. Very confusing when you don't remember which you took off what water pump and mix them up????


Rat Rods Rule!
11-14-2003 07:14 AM
pasadenahotrod Mechanically there is no difference in the pumps. There are various versions of the long pump with different bosses drilled, tapped etc. for specific applications. And, proper matching pulleys must be used.
I had a 40 Std. Ford Coupe with 350 and short pump, but converted to long pump and appropriate pulley system. There was no problem in radiator clearance, in fact the long pump is less than 1" longer than the short and the fan actually fit closer to specs with the long pump.
After making sure I had no air leaks over, under, and to the sides of the radiator I had no heating problems ever again in the '40.
10-11-2003 10:36 PM
Dutchman Thanks for the basics, I have only changed OEM waterpumps and didn't even think of short or long prior to this.
10-11-2003 08:51 PM

Year to year real differences in cooling.

I prefer the short pump, as do many others. They give you room to run a mechanical belt driven fan in the cars I build (early Fords with Chevrolet power)

There is also a lot more after-market support for the short pumps (pulleys, brackets and after market water pumps).

There is another pump available that a lot of 32 Ford people use (myself included)........the Zip raised water pump. It is a aluminum housing that a 6 cylinder Chevrolet pump fit into. The fan centerline is raised 5 and 1/2 inches. Then you use short water pump pulleys. The Zip has the alternator bracket cast into the housing.

I have one on all the 32's.
I use a Edlebrock aluminum water pump on the 40.

As you can see.......I have to space the fan out almost 1 inch to get the 16" fan up close to the radiator.

10-09-2003 09:37 PM

Is there a difference in cooling or performance between a short or long neck waterpump?
What is the advantages and/or disadvantages of either pump?

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