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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-10-2013 07:59 AM
deadbodyman Thats right,Spi epoxy can reduced up to 40% ..
.Lets say you have a new panel and sanded the primer but sanded through in a few spots,You want something on there to cover the bare metal but dont want to wait 24hr for the epoxy to cure,you just reduce it more,spray it and in about 15min or (as soon as you can nib out any dirt) you can shoot the paint...
02-09-2013 03:27 PM
mitmaks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha67 View Post
Thanks - Wet on Wet; Does this mean I can spray a sealer and immediately after spray the paint? By sealer, is this just primer, or something special?
All you do is reduce epoxy primer so it lays down smoother. You do want to let sealer flash off a bit before painting, you don't want to trap solvents.
02-09-2013 10:58 AM
Alpha67
Quote:
Originally Posted by 33Willys77 View Post
You can do this easy by sanding it with 180, prime (probably etch prime) and seal if necessary and apply paint. Wet on Wet, no sanding in between. This is done all the time in repair shops on a daily basis.
Thanks - Wet on Wet; Does this mean I can spray a sealer and immediately after spray the paint? By sealer, is this just primer, or something special?
02-09-2013 08:47 AM
Alpha67
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitmaks View Post
These 2 fenders had black EDP primer and I scuffed them and shot 2 coats of SPI epoxy and then wetsanded. Before painting I went ahead and shot another coat of epoxy (reduced)
ok, got it...thanks for the clarification
02-08-2013 11:27 PM
mitmaks Depends on the manufacturer, some are better than others.
02-08-2013 10:10 PM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitmaks View Post
EDP electro deposit primer, still remember this from my college days years ago
It's actually not bad primer and you can paint over it. These fenders were shipped all the way from Japan (according to the owner of the truck) and I tried wiping them with some acetone and it didn't come off easily. I just prepped them for epoxy outside and inside and then inside got some rubberized undercoating.
EDP is not as bad as some people might think and you shouldn't have problems with it later down the road. I see lots of people just slapping EDP primered parts on their cars and driving around and then months/years later I see these panels rusty. It's only meant to protect metal from rusting until you are ready to prep it and paint. It doesn't have permanent protection from elements like urethane has.
Most shops prep these panels same way, scuff, some primer and then color.
Think of it as gel coat on fiberglass panels, you don't take gel coat all the way off before you paint fiberglass panels, do you?
LOL. I avoid fiberglass like the plague...so I wouldnt know...But I do see what happens to an after market penel after a few months compared to a panel that was sprayed with (spi) epoxy I always figured they rusted so quick because of the sun and the primer being so thin but mainy just some crap they put on it to keep it from rusting before it got to the states...I will say this though I use a lot of aftermarket parts (crash parts for newer cars) and they sure have come a long way as far as the fit goes some of them hardly need any work to pass,..
02-08-2013 09:42 PM
mitmaks
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Hey Mit , whats EDP mean???? I'm not up on all these terms...and why not just sand it off if you care enough to use SPI ???Personally I dont trust that primer that comes on it ... if I care enough to use SPI it comes off ,If I dont care (like a used car ) it stays on...It always so thin it sands off ez enough ,,,
Personally I haven't seen problems with this primer, unless a rusted/flaking part came to me. Then yes, I would strip it all the way to metal and use epoxy/urethane primer.
02-08-2013 09:40 PM
mitmaks
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Hey Mit , whats EDP mean???? I'm not up on all these terms...and why not just sand it off if you care enough to use SPI ???Personally I dont trust that primer that comes on it ... if I care enough to use SPI it comes off ,If I dont care (like a used car ) it stays on...It always so thin it sands off ez enough ,,,
EDP electro deposit primer, still remember this from my college days years ago
It's actually not bad primer and you can paint over it. These fenders were shipped all the way from Japan (according to the owner of the truck) and I tried wiping them with some acetone and it didn't come off easily. I just prepped them for epoxy outside and inside and then inside got some rubberized undercoating.
EDP is not as bad as some people might think and you shouldn't have problems with it later down the road. I see lots of people just slapping EDP primered parts on their cars and driving around and then months/years later I see these panels rusty. It's only meant to protect metal from rusting until you are ready to prep it and paint. It doesn't have permanent protection from elements like urethane has.
Most shops prep these panels same way, scuff, some primer and then color.
Think of it as gel coat on fiberglass panels, you don't take gel coat all the way off before you paint fiberglass panels, do you?
02-08-2013 08:19 PM
deadbodyman Hey Mit , whats EDP mean???? I'm not up on all these terms...and why not just sand it off if you care enough to use SPI ???Personally I dont trust that primer that comes on it ... if I care enough to use SPI it comes off ,If I dont care (like a used car ) it stays on...It always so thin it sands off ez enough ,,,
02-08-2013 07:46 PM
mitmaks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha67 View Post
Thanks
Regarding the 2nd image from the left, I assume this part had to be re-primed prior to paint due to the burn through around the edges? Or is this burned through to another coating? (and not bare steel)
These 2 fenders had black EDP primer and I scuffed them and shot 2 coats of SPI epoxy and then wetsanded. Before painting I went ahead and shot another coat of epoxy (reduced)
02-08-2013 06:01 PM
deadbodyman It really depends on the car ,for instance if its a 69 camaro your restoring you would sand off all the primer and use a good quality epoxy that you trust....if its just a daily driver you would just scuff with a red pad spray some adheasion promoter and shoot it..After market sheet metal has crap primer on them, OEM sheet metal has pretty good primer so that can stay on...basicly aftermarket parts get the primer sanded of and the jambs just scuffed and sprayed with a light coat of adheasion promoter (bulldog works fine )
02-08-2013 05:26 PM
Alpha67
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitmaks View Post
wet sand that with 400-600 and you're ready for paint.
Thanks
Regarding the 2nd image from the left, I assume this part had to be re-primed prior to paint due to the burn through around the edges? Or is this burned through to another coating? (and not bare steel)
02-08-2013 02:18 PM
mitmaks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha67 View Post
Thanks guys - I knew the sanding of the exterior surface was a must - was wondering if I could avoid sanding the nooks and cranny's of the inside of the fender though (will be visible/exposed on the engine compartment side
Unfortunately with body prep there is no easy way out, that's why not everyone enjoys it. You do have to scotch brite all the surfaces in order for whatever you put on top of it to stock to it.
I would use maroon scotch brite (320 grit) pad and then give it 1-2 coats of epoxy (I use SPI) and wet sand that with 400-600 and you're ready for paint.
Here's some pics of fenders I did for a guy with the above process.
02-08-2013 10:45 AM
Alpha67 Thanks guys - I knew the sanding of the exterior surface was a must - was wondering if I could avoid sanding the nooks and cranny's of the inside of the fender though (will be visible/exposed on the engine compartment side
02-08-2013 10:19 AM
swvalcon On most aftermarket parts I sand as good as I can and put down a coat of SPI epoxy. I just dont trust that china primer.
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