|02-11-2013 07:59 AM|
These are a couple pages you can use as a checklist to be sure you've not missed anything. Since your engine has had the cam broken in already, your way ahead of the game, but still not completely home free. I'd still recommend you use break in oil for the first oil change. If the oil in it now is the same oil that the cam break in was done, change it and the filter using fresh break in oil or normal motor oil w/an additive like ZDDPlus added to it, before restarting the engine.
Cam break in basically describes the steps involved w/cam break in.
A page on starting an engine after it's sat, but is already broken in (omit the cam break in steps):
• Prep and start a new engine
|02-11-2013 07:52 AM|
As far as the "break in"... I suppose it could be considered broke in.
I've always though of a 'break in' period like the "old days" when they said you had to be 'easy' on a brand new car while you broke in the motor (a period of a couple thousand miles)
That's what I had in the back of my mind. By if it just needs a few good heat cycles,.. I suppose that is already done.
I'll have to check and see how long and how hard they ran it when they started it.
|02-11-2013 06:35 AM|
I agree. The header coating could be damaged if the engine was run the way you have to, to break in the cam (engine speed at or above 2000 rpm, no idling, and no air coming in through the grill like if you were driving down the road, etc.). Also if the timing or carb were off, the headers can get hot enough to glow red- and that'll cook the ceramic coating, leaving it discolored. Using old or uncoated headers for break in is to let them take the brunt of it instead of the coated headers.
But since your engine has already been broken in, you can install the coated headers straight away. You might want to prime the oiling system prior to start up. Or at least disconnect the ignition and spin the engine over w/the starter until you see oil pressure on the gauge.
In case you end up having to set the distributor back in yourself, this should help.
Good luck and enjoy the new engine!
|02-11-2013 04:37 AM|
When you break in a newly built engine with a flat tappet hydraulic cam you have to run it at a fairly high, but changing rpm for about 30 minutes so that the cam breaks in properly . At that point the timing, mixture and other settings are only a best guess, and the engine may run hot because of the RPM, insufficient fan, or because mixture is off. The header company does not want you to screw up the new headers from running too lean and too hot during break in.
If all you did was pull the distributor, just put it back in as close as you can and restart the engine. Rotate the engine and line up the timing pointer with the 8-10 degree BTDC mark on the damper, using your finger over the #1 cylinder to verify it is at TDC. Then drop the distributor in so that it points at the #1 wire on the cap. Usually the rotor will point about toward the front corner of the driver's side valve cover, so you have enough space to rotate the distributor without the vacuum can advance hitting anything.
|02-10-2013 11:32 PM|
So what's the problem!!
Your motors already been broke in. Put the headers on and have at it!!
|02-10-2013 10:49 PM|
|lhmurphy||Yeah or install the motor and just put two of the adjustable wal mart fans on te fenders blowing on the headers while ur buddy times it(the fans will help keep ur buddy cool too) lol|
|02-10-2013 10:10 PM|
I should of stated I had this motor ran when it was originally built.
The motor builder got with the High School and they used it as a shop project.
The shop built the motor stand, and the mechanic built the motor and took it to the HS>
Then they hooked everything up, and started the motor, timed it and everything.
They said it was a "big deal" when they got it all hooked up and running.
It was ALL set for me to just drop it in the engine bay and start it.
Then I went and took the distributor out... LOL
So now I know it is out of time,.. but a friend of mine who drives race cars says he can time it in five minutes.
Anyway I had the motor built several years ago, and I need a stand now to do this.
You mentioned about the fan. That was part of what got me to thinking about breaking it in before installing it. I have a this great big industrial box fan. It's about 4 feet square. It moves a LOT of air. I was thinking I could set it in front and let it move air into the radiator.
|02-10-2013 09:58 PM|
|lhmurphy||Just bolt them on and run them during break in. Make sure they are clean and maybe put a box fan on them while ur motors running...make sure to have someone start the motor and have ur timing light on while its running and I would run higher timing to make sure the whole air/fuel mixture gets burned...just my two cents lol|
|02-10-2013 09:32 PM|
Engine break in
I did a search for this, but didn't see anything.
Forgive me if I am beating a dead horse.
Here's my situation.
I had a SB 350 motor rebuilt and ready to install in my truck. I turn it about once a month to keep everything free.
I am getting fairly close to being able to start working on plumbing, wiring, interior etc.
I am going to put on ceramic coated headers.
I read where you are NOT supposed to put new ceramic coated headers onto a motor that is being broke in. (this info came from the header maker - They stated doing so would void the warrenty)
They suggested using OLD headers while you brake in the motor, and then swapping them out and put on the new ceramic headers
SO I was wondering your thoughts about this. I had thought about making a engine stand, put it on wheels, hook up a radiator and some old headers, and just let the motor run and do a 'break in' sitting on the engine stand.
I don't know how many hours it'd have to run, etc.
I'd have to build a custom exhaust system, and if I use the old style headers that came on the motor I'd use to break it in would NOT be the same style headers I'd buy. so I'd have to exchange out the whole exhaust system later, etc.
Just didn't seem to make much sense to me, and I was curious of your thoughts or ideas.