|02-14-2013 02:58 PM|
Go back and readjust the valves. All of them. Check all the wires. Pull the dist top and check for anything broken or any buildup. Pull all the plugs and see what they look like.
Also you need some spacers for those wheels. The offset is all jacked up, that's why nobody runs them.
|02-14-2013 06:54 AM|
very nice looking car
make sure you retorque the wheels to make sure the new studs take a set.
re:#2, the wire is not touching the header,the plug is not fouled,and maybe take that cover off again,,,check valve movement and check spring for bind and or broken damper
|02-14-2013 01:44 AM|
Hopefully the lifter and cam lobe isn't trashed. Over-the-counter motor oil can cause problems at cam break in time if there's no break in additive used like ZDDPlus, or if an engine break in oil isn't used. The lobes and lifter bottoms should also have been covered in moly break in lube.
But even then sometimes stuff happens and a cam/lifter will fail- sometimes because of idling the engine before the cam is broken in or because the lifter didn't rotate.
|02-13-2013 10:52 PM|
|dub||In case anyone was wondering what C5 rims like on a chevelle......|
|02-13-2013 10:47 PM|
Sorry guys for the lack of info. I find it hard to give enough when I'm frustrated and just sank 2500 into a car that doesn't run correctly.
Info on the car:
Bored .80 over (apparently) Stroker, (apparently). I say apparently because I've driven a 383 stroker and mine does not compare to that.
Edelbrock performer airgap intake manifold, holley 650 DP. Flowteck long tube headers. "mild" rv cam.
Parts I just installed:::::
Here's the 2500 dollar part-
I just put a auburn pozzi carrier in, with 3.73 gears. New C5 corvette rims and tires, new wheel studs, all around, new front rotors with new brakes.
2" drop in the front along with monroe performance shocks.
(this is where the frustration begins.)
A couple of weeks ago, I started to hear what sounded like a exhaust leak. Turns out it was a lifter. Everyone knows that sound.
So I did the valve adjustment the old fashioned way. Popped of the valve cover, started the car, and adjusted accordingly. I know, I know, there are people that do not recommend the running valve adjustment. But quite honestly, I was impatient.
Now this is the weird thing, It ran like a raped ape for a couple of days, Then I went out to give er a run, and it wouldn't start. Finally got it started and it was misfiring badly.
So there is the back story.....Now I did run the "spit" test, and it was successful. The number two cylinder is not firing correctly. So I will adjust it tomorrow.
But hey, with the new rims, tires and drop....It sure does look good!!
|02-13-2013 05:46 AM|
|streetrodderbn||i have seen the need for readjusting the valves after the lifters pump up. Why did you re lash the valves? is this a new install, or were there problems with the engine that you felt the need to go through the valves again???? We need more info.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!|
|02-13-2013 05:37 AM|
|engineczar||Can we get a little more detail? Is it a stock 350 (stock cam/rockers) or does it have roller rockers, or an aftermarket camshaft? What year is the motor? etc.|
|02-13-2013 12:50 AM|
|02-12-2013 10:58 PM|
Defiantly a first for me. I guess I'll try that tomorrow.
|02-12-2013 08:25 PM|
|vinniekq2||see if they are hot.If you find cold pipes,those cylinders are not firingor if only warm then the cylinder is weak|
|02-12-2013 08:17 PM|
|dub||For what reason may I ask?|
|02-12-2013 08:12 PM|
|vinniekq2||spit on all the header tubes when its running|
|02-12-2013 08:02 PM|
Bad valve adjustment
I did a valve adjustment om my small block 350. Ran great for two days. Is it possible that it could be causing problems now? Went to take it to the store, and it barely start. Got it started finally, and it was miss firing really bad. Check all the basics as I could at the gas station, everything appeared normal. Any thoughts?