|02-14-2013 11:15 PM|
|Xavier87||Didn't mean to start a debate. But I did get a lot of good info from this. Thanks for the help. Ill try and post some pics soon of the 383 components.|
|02-14-2013 08:29 AM|
and have already done a basic tune up.. (cap/rotor/plugs/wires/etc)
nothing worse than getting there and haven't to run around looking for part..
|02-14-2013 08:18 AM|
dont have to worry about pole vaulting a driveshaft
$500.00 is a very cheap ball park tune,especially where knock might be present.
getting exact a/f readings under power. This also gives you the ability to choose an A/F ratio to start with and then road test with a real number to start with.
street tune and race tune can both be tested on the same day.write down the results in a jounal,now knowing what a jet/air bleed chainge will do for your engine
If you build a very mild street engine then all this information will be moot
|02-14-2013 08:06 AM|
yes chassis dyno's add realworld to it.. and have a place, but not everyone has 500+ bucks to play at one.. or the repairs when it(the dyno) finds the drivetrain weak link.. and it will..
|02-14-2013 07:48 AM|
chasis dynos like the mustang are great for setting fuel curve and testing timing settings.Great for simulating real road driving as load can be varied,,,,,etc worth it
How much horse power your engine will make is easy to guess if YOU,supply actual air flow readings of your heads from a certified flow bench along with cam specs.intake and fuel management system info,exhaust specs
for the layman,stock cast iron heads and flat tappet hydraulic cam= not much,,,maybe 1 horse power per cubic inch plus or minus a little.
If you donot have a good exhaust system then less
|02-14-2013 02:45 AM|
2nd, AGAIN dyno's don't run real pump fuel that for 95% of this country would be 10% ethnol fuel with an oxanizer(sp?)
3rd, any number under load on a water brake will not have the installed in car exhaust, this can have a 30-40hp swing to any "numbers" the dyno sheet says.
4th, if the dyno shop is at sea level and your not.. the tuning will not = the numbers on the dyno..
5th, dyno will not inclose the engine to it's own heat that unless you have a cold air inlet, it will have to deal with in the "REAL WORLD"
or a p/s pump or alt. or an air cleaner, it'll have a fancy bowl that help funnel the air into the carb in a way that no aircleaner set up will..
6th.. opinionated, nope.. facts are facts..
TELL ME i'M WRONG!!! better yet, PROVE I'M WRONG
why even care about a dyno sheet with x hp # and x ft lb's when you install it in the car it not even be close to the dyno set up..
best dyno room I saw was at mann engineering the engine sat in an area that was a mirror of most engine compartments , they installed the aircleaner you'd be running, and all the as. drive, and YOUR FULL EXHAUST SYSTEM.. if your engine was to breath underhood air, so did the engine on the dyno..
that gave you a real idea of what it had..
very very few will do this, and most dyno cells can't..
so the dyno pull #'s is no real than anyones "air" dyno ..
total waste of funds, unless you get to run it in, as installed in vehicle form.. not an opinion, it's fact.. again prove me wrong
|02-14-2013 01:37 AM|
|327NUT||Well you're pretty opinionated aren't you? So sorry I gave this guy a bunch of bullchit info. My dyno time was $500 for a full day and it showed me how much hp and torque my engine put out with a load on it and 89 octane. I think that's exactly what he was asking for. If you read his post he said this is his first build, do you really think he's going to go to the track and have the knowledge to figure out his timing, air/fuel mixture, know how to read his plugs and then convert the et and speed into hp/trq?|
|02-14-2013 12:28 AM|
600-800 for a dyno run/break in..
or a day at the track?
yes the dyno will give you a # but at a cost..
an et and mph will also..
not everyone has that much cabbage to blow to get a non real word #
to get your #'s you'd need your exhaust hooked up(most can't do this)
most don't run aircleaners.. , nor. e10 fuel
so the #'s are worthless..
|02-14-2013 12:19 AM|
|327NUT||This question is asked a million times, all you'll get obviously are guesses. The only real way is to spend the money and get it dyno'd, that way you can also break in the cam under load and set the fuel and timing.|
|02-13-2013 11:41 PM|
you said 292 cam, comp? flat tappet? solid? roller?
1.5 rockers, 1.6? full roller rockers?
is it a 2 bolt or 4 bolt.. (I'd use main studs ARP) you mighy need a small base circle lobe cam and a comp magnum cam isn't. the rods may hit the cam.
you need to find out if the rods clear a normal cam or if you need a small basecircle cam lobe..
if so.. go a little lighter on lift, if using a flat tappet cam and make up the loss at the cam with 1.6 rockers..
|02-13-2013 11:21 PM|
|Xavier87||Other then the 383 stroker kit, a 650 holley carb, and 292 cam. thats all i can think of right now. This is my first build so be patient with me. My step dad is helping me with it.|
|02-13-2013 10:59 PM|
|dub||What else is on the motor?|
|02-13-2013 10:55 PM|
Going from 350 to 383...
I have an 84 z28 camaro. I have a keith black 383 kit to put on a 350 clearenced block. Any info on what the HP and torque will be when it's put in?