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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-04-2013 06:46 PM
Jathanw Lol sorry I got a new phone and the camera is nice on it. Thank you. Yes I'm looking at designs for a shelf now
03-04-2013 06:35 PM
69 widetrack Well, Jathanw...the pictures are big...it took my computer about 5 minutes just to load them on my computer screen...LOL. That's a huge improvement from what you had originally....congratulations,good job. Now all you need to do is build that showcase to put it in and enjoy.

Ray
03-04-2013 06:13 PM
Jathanw
update

Ok so ive finally finished the truck. I am very plessed with the before and after. Many many hours, sanding, painting, scraping rust. Thank you for yalls help. Sorry the pictures are big







02-21-2013 01:10 PM
69 widetrack Alright...I wouldn't clear coat it, the truck is going to be inside in a controlled environment and it wasn't clear coated when it was new. What I would is use the paint as a primer on the areas that your concerned about the pits. Let the paint set up good...make sure that it's totally dry , sand it down with 320 or 400 grit. You'll be able to use the red paint as a guide coat. Gently sand the panels and clean them off periodically...where you have pits, the red paint will be shiny until you have sanded them out....repaint the panel when all is level...let it dry and enjoy. It looks like your doing a good job, don't bother with the clear coat and or the super fine 800 and 1,500 grits.

REay
02-21-2013 12:55 PM
Jathanw ] top of the tank

This was the worst spot that was pitted





Sorry the images are huge!!! I can't remembr the kind of paint, I'll have to check when I get home. I think it's krylon red and white. I know the primer was rust o leum
02-21-2013 12:00 PM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jathanw View Post
Update***
Ok so I decided to start prepping it for paint. I sanded with 80, 120, 150, 400 grit. Washed it then the pitted areasi used body filter then resanded it. It came out smooth. I used preventative rust primer. The only spot that made me want to pull my hair out was the "gas can doors"on the side. It took me probably 15 hours sanding those two cans. The other side was easy, but it wasn't pitted as bad. Here are some pictures. Ive only done one coat. After it dries ill sand it with 800 &1500 grit. Then put second coat on.
Should I put clear coat on it?
This one is the spot I spent most of the time on

I like the way the red came out.

I'm sorry I can't see the pictures...but you are obviously meticulous about your truck and I respect that....Now, if I can give you a little advice. If your prepping with 80 grit, there is no need to step it up to 120, and or 150 before putting filler on the pitted areas. I know it's a little late now but in the future you can go from 80 grit to filler, finish your filler in 280 or 320 (and that is plenty fine enough) and then primer. Finish sanding your primer in 400 grit and you should be ready for paint...what kind of paint are you putting on the truck?

Please try uploading the pictures again...I think it would help. If you haven't opened the packages of 800 grit and 1500 grit...you in all probability don't need them unless you want to polish the truck. As far as clear coating goes, I can't answer that until you tell me what kind of paint your using.

Ray
02-21-2013 08:31 AM
Jathanw Update***
Ok so I decided to start prepping it for paint. I sanded with 80, 120, 150, 400 grit. Washed it then the pitted areasi used body filter then resanded it. It came out smooth. I used preventative rust primer. The only spot that made me want to pull my hair out was the "gas can doors"on the side. It took me probably 15 hours sanding those two cans. The other side was easy, but it wasn't pitted as bad. Here are some pictures. Ive only done one coat. After it dries ill sand it with 800 &1500 grit. Then put second coat on.
Should I put clear coat on it?
This one is the spot I spent most of the time on

I like the way the red came out.

02-14-2013 07:17 AM
69 widetrack I think that would be an excellent option and that's why I brought up the fact that a body shop could do it cheaper because they can mix up small amounts of paint for each individual job. This way you would be getting the best of both worlds, an durable high gloss automotive finish without buying 2 pints of expensive paint. The only additional cost would be to have them paint it but then you wouldn't be buying a paint gun and would get a professional job, one that you would be happy with and could admire in your trophy case with fond memories for years to come.

Best of luck and let us know how you make out.

Ray
02-14-2013 05:48 AM
Jathanw Hey sorry for late reply. Wow I didnt know auto paint was that expensive. There is a body shop across from my work. I might try to get quote today. Im not worried about resale, I'm keeping it in the family.
02-14-2013 04:22 AM
Rebuilder How old is the toy? Is it a collectible?
It's probably too late now but if it's an antique you should of left the toy with it's original patina. A light coat of rust converter would have been the best option along with some gentle cleaning. The converter would have turned the soft red rust to a hard black oxide. Repainting an antique toy kills about half it's value. On the other hand if you'll be keeping it in the family then resale value is not an issue. I'm sure it'll look great after painting.
Would love to see overall pics!
02-13-2013 07:38 PM
gearheadslife reds gonna be costly anyways as it has gold in it..

here they'll mix a 1/2 pint..
if you can get the texaco red formula you ould mix your own krylon or rustolum as you'd have the amounts and colors added to the base red,

as seen as it mostlikely isn't going to be near other texaco items or sold.. 100% texaco matching colors most likely isn't needed.. as most won't spot the difference.. now if you are going to shows with it.. that be different..
also the white, isn't mostlikely straight white..
best way if going with auto type paint, have other things ready to paint when you spray the red and white, so you don't waste the rest of the product..
to give you an idea.. when I did my engine bay, I sprayed it, then sprayed my steel wheels , as I wasn't sure how much product I'd need, a pro can eyeball it, and know.. but running out midway through sucks..lol
when I spry my engine brackets, my bulkhead doors for the house will get sprayed at the same time.. and I'll waste zero product..
02-13-2013 06:52 PM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jathanw View Post
Thanks. This is all new to me. I want it to be original so red and white. But is it straight red and white, or different shade? What would be best way to make it look like new? Automotive paint? My goal is to get it done and build a cabinet for it. Wood I know about, this metal work and painting I'm learning. I don't plan to go pro and start hot rodding so a decent gun from hf will do. I have 6gal compressor in my shed.
For the size of job your doing a 6 gallon compressor would be fine and as Gearheadslife said, Harbor Freight can probably sell you a touch up gun (that's all you would need for toys for about $20 or less). As far as paint goes, the automotive paint jobbers should have paint codes for Texaco if you plan on going that route. This would be the premium way to go. As I mentioned automotive paint is expensive and if your planning on the exact color be prepared to pay. Pints of red singe stage (and a pint is much more than you would need but probably the smallest size any jobber would mix) could cost over $100...White would be about 1/2 of that...then you need hardner and reducer...You could use a straight enamel but I don't know of too many paint jobbers that still mix it.

This is the best way but unfortunately it's expensive.This is one of those cases that if you want automotive paint on your truck it may be cheaper to bring it to a body shop and have them paint it because they can mix a small amount of paint and you wouldn't need to buy more paint than you need or a paint gun...so unless you can find a place that sells enamel factory pack Texaco colors, it could get expensive.

If you go the automotive paint route, every paint jobber has an economy line of paint, PPG has Omni, Dupont has Nason, this may save you a bit of cash but still costly.

I'm in Canada but I can make a few calls locally to some jobber's I know and see if there is a more economical way to go and get back to you tomorrow. If there is I'm sure that it would be available to you where you live. Or perhaps someone on the forum has a solution.

Let me know if you want me to check it out and I'll get back to tomorrow.

Best regards
Ray
02-13-2013 06:23 PM
Jathanw Thanks. This is all new to me. I want it to be original so red and white. But is it straight red and white, or different shade? What would be best way to make it look like new? Automotive paint? My goal is to get it done and build a cabinet for it. Wood I know about, this metal work and painting I'm learning. I don't plan to go pro and start hot rodding so a decent gun from hf will do. I have 6gal compressor in my shed.
02-13-2013 06:21 PM
gearheadslife h/d and lowe rent compressors that would be plenty big enough to spray the toy..
harbor frieght guns are always on sale,
I bought 2 for 24 bucks for both.. for when I paint small stuff..
02-13-2013 06:17 PM
69 widetrack If your not in a hurry and you leave it with a sandblaster I think it would be fairly cheap, if he could blast it while he's doing a bigger job.

As far as equipment goes, I hope your planing on painting more than your truck because it can get expensive...you can purchase a paint gun cheap enough from Harbor Freight but a compressor is going to cost a lot of cash no matter how you look at it. Let me know if your still planning on purchasing a paint gun and other equipment and I will try and walk you through what you might need.

What type of paint where you planning on using? This can get quite expensive as well...if memory serves me correctly, Texaco's colors where Red, White and Green so just so you know, if you where thinking of using automotive paints, Red is costly.

But let me know and i'll help you wherever I can.

Best regards

Ray
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