|02-15-2013 06:53 PM|
Why would you think there would be any added wear?
Also, if you're running an oil cooler be sure to run a thermostat for it, too cold of oil is worse than too hot.
Fix your fans, then fix your oil pressure, 7psi at idle is pretty damn low.
|02-15-2013 05:48 PM|
your fan set up is your problem.. the fans should only come on WHEN NEEDED
YOU HAVE ONE SPINNING ALL THE TIME.. just because the thermo opens doesn't mean the system needs or wants the fan on.. put both fans on a temp. switching on /off first to come on at 200 the 2nd at 215 and with a/c running
the radator fins alone will pull enough heat out. when under light load , and why a mechanical fan would have a clutch to turn it on/off when needed, not running all the time..
as far as worry'n about the dissy gear.. unless you are running a roller with a bronze gear, it's a none issue, the general put oil collers on trucks and vettes for years.. only issue is leaks at the adapters..
|02-15-2013 04:07 PM|
|02-15-2013 04:03 PM|
Have you tried a lower rated thermostat? Maybe a 180F. Do you have the heater or the water pump bypass hooked to the manifold.
I'm not a cooling expert but I know with my land rover, has 350sbc with no mech fan (no room-like you) if I let it get TOO hot in traffic or in the bush,before the thremo fans cut in, it real hard to cool down. So I have the fans set to cut in relatively early. This way it keeps the heat at bay and never over heats, even on the hottest of days 46degC in traffic. At least not yet!
Is it possible that your engine is getting TOO hot before the thermostat opens and then your cooling system is over efficient causing cold running?
I'm not sure, I'm just chucking it out there... I'll keep scratching my head for ya!
|02-15-2013 03:47 PM|
Temp sender is on the cylinder head, pass side, i guess that was the stock spot for it even if i have alu heads.
|02-15-2013 03:14 PM|
Unless you're adding the vacuum advance in, 45 degrees BTDC is way too much timing.
Be sure the timing tab and damper line are accurately showing TDC- which may not be the case.
|02-15-2013 03:04 PM|
A quick mention about the cooling system, i have a brand new alu radiator with a 2 speed electric fan, i also made a custom fan shroud to enhance cooling action, the first speed is always on and the 2nd comes in when engine goes over 195F, i have no room for a mechanical fan so i opted for this solution, also i have a switch on the dash so i can turn the fan off anytime, usually i keep that off until engine is getting warm, thermostat is a 195 F as well.
|02-15-2013 02:56 PM|
• under a light load (light throttle cruise)
• under a heavy load (towing or hard running, hills, offroad, etc.)
• stop and go in-city driving
• open road/highway speeds
Knowing this will tell a lot about how the cooling system is performing in general and whether there's an actual need for an oil cooler.
BTW, using an auxiliary tranny cooler (if AT) can help by removing much of the load caused by the AT from the cooling system.
The load on the oil pump/distributor gear will not be significantly increased by using a cooler as long as it's plumbed correctly. Using small diameter plumbing and 90 degree-plus fittings will cause a lot of restriction and should be avoided if at all possible.
|02-15-2013 01:33 PM|
I'd be more concerned about what is causing the engine to run hot to start with. Cooling the oil off, or attempting to, is not going to solve the problem.
If I were you, I'd be focusing more on the cooling system, to start with, and other factors like plug heat range and ignition timing, than the oiling. Retarded ignition timing will cause an engine to run hotter.
|02-15-2013 12:42 PM|
Engine oil cooler
i'm having hard time to keep the engine running at the right temp, i'm thinking about an engine oil cooler wich i guess is a good upgrade and should keep a more stable temp, i installed one of them on my Jeep WJ 4.7 and i'm very happy of it is performing.
The only thing i dislike about engine oil cooler is the more load on the dizzy and cam gear (engine is a GM 350 first gen) due to the flow restriction of the cooler and sandwich adapter, honestly i don't know how much this restriction would be but i'm obsessed about cam and dizzy wear, any idea or experience about that?
A thinner oil would help for sure, now i'm running a 5w40 with ZDDP in it, so with the cooler probably a 5w30 is ok but i'm concerned about pressure when warm engine at idle, now is roughly 7 PSI, with a thinner oil will drop even more than that.
I was thinking about another solution using a 12 volt pump that sucks the oil from the oil pan, push that in the cooler and a return line to the pan again, a thermostat in the lines will regulate oil flow so it will go to the cooler when needed or oil is getting to hot and avoid cold oil in the engine during the warm up period, what do you think?
Any opinion will be apprecciated.