|03-20-2013 04:41 AM|
|EOD Guy||Pretty much, it's what equipment you have, Hammer crimp, vs "correct" crimpers vs solder. All work very well.|
|03-19-2013 09:06 PM|
Not to beat this to death ... as it has been on several forums on the net.
Even the debate over crimping versus soldering is an ongoing one.
All I can say is that I worked at a NAPA store that included electrical service (starter / alternator rebuilding) and this "crimp, solder, and heat-shrink" method was drummed into my head on a fairly consistent basis over a period of 10 years. I should also state that we DID use HD tinned copper connectors with the correct crimping tool with the 3-ft handles, and not that "hammer-style" crimper that I posted earlier.
Perhaps it IS overkill, but we didn't have any comebacks on the cables we built ... end of story.
I guess the bottom line is that there are many different ways of doing things. Choose one that works for you and your customers.
|03-19-2013 10:36 AM|
glad to know that it isn't an issue at all and was thinking that if it got that hot, i'd like the solder to melt out and the connection fail.
|03-19-2013 07:49 AM|
|JOHNSHENOUDA||I always use 2 gauge welding wire. To crimp it I simply lightly small the terminal end in my vice with the cable inside the end. Then i take the biggest Phillips head screwdriver I can find and I strike the ever lasting crap out of it. Reinstall in the vise, give it a slight snug nothing crazy. Then simply either tape the end or shrink the end. Either way is fine. then I use red duck tape and wrap the wire so that there is never any confusion as to which is positive.|
|03-18-2013 08:20 PM|
|EOD Guy||I too have smoked a few cables in my day....... the cables melted the insulation, down to bare copper wire, kinda charred look'in and smelled awful......... but the end didn't melt the solder out of it..... just say'in|
|03-18-2013 04:23 PM|
Well, I've seen some fairly large (2/0, 3/0) battery cables that have gotten hot enough to melt the insulation, and yes, often there was also a lot of green copper at the joint which was probably causing the high resistance.
I guess I'm talking about neglected agricultural equipment with BIG (i.e. 40MT 24-volt) starters and low ambient temperatures that turn motor oil to molasses ... HUGE amp draws.
I've also seen armatures that have flung the solder out of them ...
I've even seen a 1969 Chevy Impala with white smoke rolling out under the hood at a filling station in Las Vegas while the owner (old man --- prob 90 yrs old) was TRYING to crank it over.
It sounded AWFUL on the first couple of attempts, and then the starter obviously completely seized. He kept leaning on the key ... while myself and another couple of guys started yelling and running towards him. We pushed the car away from the pumps as quickly as we could. SCARY!
1000 amp batteries and 4-ga battery cables are not always a good match ...
|03-18-2013 03:44 PM|
|EOD Guy||Yikes...... I agree if a battery cable gets hot enough to melt the solder........ you've got bigger problems! I've been doing this method for some pretty high amp draw items, like air compressors, remote jumper cable connections, winches etc......... I have never had an issue. I don't disagree a mechanical crimp is prob the best method...... but this has been working for me for years|
|03-18-2013 03:23 PM|
|03-17-2013 08:47 PM|
Let me see -- BFH. OH, OH yea.
That would work. Hit it good.
|03-17-2013 07:59 PM|
If a "solder-only" method is used, and the cable gets hot enough to melt insulation and solder ... yikes!!!
Here is a *relatively* inexpensive ($45) manual battery crimping tool.
NAPA P/N WLD 7771635
Also sold elsewhere as Imperial # BS-104
There are also cheaper ($25) "dimpler" type cable crimpers that operate much the same way ... "Whack it with a BFH!"
|03-17-2013 07:50 PM|
|EOD Guy||I like to terminate cable ends by clamping them in a vice to hold them in a upright position, heat them up with a propane torch, adding solder untill they are 3/4 full, then I push the stripped end of the cable into the molten solder, let it cool slip some heat shrink over the end and it's a very tight neat connection that doesn't corrode very easy|
|03-17-2013 02:25 PM|
crimp it, seal it
To expand on the cable terminal lug issue.The best method of terminating the cables is a hydraulic crimping tool like a Burndy Y35. There are many other excellent brands. Some types require dies that are matched to the wire terminal lug size and others that are die-less. I prefer the die-less however because they will fit any brand of terminal lug.
Too pricey for a single project but they can be rented or borrowed from an electrical contractor. Maybe your local tool rental tool store can help. Or possibly check out your local electrician training school or Votech. Also available on the internet.
Once the lug is installed apply sealing shrink tube. This will encapsulate the lug and eliminate damage due to corrosion.
|03-17-2013 10:41 AM|
Dorman #924-254, NAPA #600-3574
I'm not positive on this, but I think that the round adapter do-hickey (thats a technical term, LOL) is used to adapt a battery that has an oval-shaped vent near the top of the battery. Venting a lead-acid battery in ANY enclosed space is a very good idea, as that hydrogen gas is extremely explosive! (Remember the Hindenburg?)
Also ... make sure that you are using resin-core solder (NOT acid-core) on any soldered connections. There is also an aerosol "battery protectant" spray that you can use to seal up the post-to-terminal connections.
|03-17-2013 08:38 AM|
|loli||I put a new battery in a car once with new cable ends. Not having any petroleum jelly to put on the post I sprayed them down with penitrating oil, went in to watch TV and when I came out it wouldn't start. The oil wicked in between the post and connectors causing me to loose contact. Had to remove them and clean everything off. Who knew ?|
|03-16-2013 10:41 AM|
Sorry I forgot to mention that my examples assume that a full sized copper ground wire is used.
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