|02-18-2013 02:01 PM|
Actually it does drive very strait (I was shocked). I have only driven it two times in the 8 months I have had her (no time).
I checked out the Duville windshield...I think I like it! The one I found was 1600$ and had no glass (weird). Guess I will have to take it and get glass put in it.
I am now rethinking my exhaust......
|02-18-2013 11:34 AM|
Brian it looked like a steep angle to me too! I would check caster and camber too! Does it go in a straight line when you let go of the wheel Price? While its moving of course LOL!
|02-18-2013 11:05 AM|
Funny you said that about the headers as I almost put that on the little list I just made, but I am really not sure exactly how I want to do the exhaust right now, so I just have not really thought much on it (be one of the last things I do).
I will look into that windshield! I think those are the slip brass looking ones? I will google!
Thanks for all the replies!!
|02-18-2013 11:00 AM|
I think getting rid of T bucket style headers would be a plus and cross draft Webers would look seriously "correct" in that car I think.
A Duval style windshield would also fit well in my opinion. But that is all a bunch of changes, it's cool the way it is, have fun.
|02-18-2013 10:56 AM|
Thanks Brad! Good info! I also agree about the looks of the car being different which is why I was attracted to it in the first place. I drove over 1000 miles to pick it up.
I for sure do not want to change the overall look and feel of the car, I just want to make it function a little better and knock some of the rough edges off of it.
I hope to be able to have time to do some work on it when I get back home and I think I am going to start with the steering! I would like to replace the entire steering column, the steering box, and correct this drag link incline that you pointed out.
It actually drives pretty strait, just has a ton of slack in the wheel. I am going to change the steer column out just because it is a cheap one (I think), and I know they make better.
Because of all the tips here, I think I am not going to mess with the front end as planned "if it aint broke".
Some things I am going to do (just as sidetrack chit chat):
My good friend is a fiberglass master, so we are going to help the body out (not a bad quality kit, just not the best), then repaint (same flat black)
I am going to put a supercharged motor, or one with maybe a Weber 6 pack or something (mainly for looks over the power).
There is a fuel cell in the trunk, I am going to maybe change it out for one of those round tanks that people mount on the outside (but mine will be in the trunk area out of sight), but I have to research this more.
And as said, change out the steering and now maybe some thinner wheel for front.
|02-18-2013 09:43 AM|
It does look like from these last photos that the drag link (the bar from the pitman arm on the steering box to the spindle) is at an awful steep angle. That bar should be level or matching the angle of the bars that are locating the front axle so they all have the same arch. If they don't when the axle goes up and down the distance between the to changes right? If the difference changes being the bar that is locating the front axle isn't going to change, the drag link effectively gets "longer and shorter" thru the arch and it turns your wheels.
With the little travel most cars like this have it "can" work and you hardly notice it, or it can be very troublesome it's hard to tell from this one photo if this is an issue with yours.
I do know one thing, your car is pretty unique all the way around. I like it personally, I think it is pretty imaginative and damn interesting. It is NOT your typical 32 roadster that pretty much follow a certain "rule book" and will often look very similar one from another at a show. That one is damn unique and damn interesting. I love them all understand, I am certainly not saying the others are boring or anything like that. But building a unique 32 Ford Roadster isn't easy, it has all been done before. If one like yours has been done, I haven't seen it, I dig it.
There is no need to change the whole front end if there is a problem with it, correct that problem and take off down the road with a smile on your face.
|02-18-2013 07:49 AM|
Most 32 are built almost all alike, reproduction frame rails, notched in the rear for axle clearance,Move the rear axle back one inch, front frame notched for spring clearance, . front crosmember reformed to lower the front a couple more inches and a dropped front axle, My son says they are all 1 -800 cars, call one of the chassis builders, give them your credit card number. decide what front axle, I beam or tubular, what size brakes and wheels. If you are running a small block Ford have them move the front crosmsmber 2 inches farther foreward, ( don't forget if you do, order the hood 2 inches longer) steel or glass body,
I like the stance of your roadster , from the back it looks right to me. Most people seem to think that they should only have a dropped front axle near the original location on the frame. . I like what K & K custom crosmembers in Austraila -New zeland builds for an IFS using the Jag xj parts. check them out.
|02-18-2013 12:01 AM|
I wish I could get a photo of it for you, but I wont be back in country until March 11th . I may be able to talk my wife into it sometime this week.
I agree by having a smaller wheel width or different wheel offset, I could solve the issue of the wheel hitting the 'drag link' (thanks for the term), but I didnt know how hard it will be to find those wheels (I will check).
I have a couple more pics on my computer I will try to load.
|02-17-2013 04:05 PM|
Man!!!! Some skinnys up front would set that thing off!!!!! That is a traditional street rod set up old skool!!!! I love it!!!! Can you get a pic of the steering rod angle from the pitman arm to the steering arm?
|02-17-2013 02:50 PM|
That rod is called the drag link..the contact that you are getting is altered by the bump or travel stops that do not allow the tire to move to the extent that they contact the drag link..maybe a bit different offset in the wheels may help with that..Loose steering can be corrected by either adjusting the steering box play and/or new rod ends on the drag link and tie rod..Then a bit of testing and checking to correct for bump steer and you are home and it is all good..hey we have guys going over 200 with front ends like that and all it takes is some tuning and repair to what you already have..
|02-17-2013 02:30 PM|
I am glad I decided to post here, learning a lot!
One of my issues was I could not figure out what I had as I could not find anything like it on the web, and have never seen a front end like it. Now I know why
I rides a tad bit rough, so I was thinking maybe I could swap stuff out and maybe get a little smoother of a ride.
I have an issue with my steering, but I dont have a photo of that side of the car, so it would be hard for me to explain as I dont know what everything is called, but I will give it a shot.
I have a lot of slack in my steering. I figure it is the 'gear box??' that it goes into that is mounted to the frame on the outside of the firewall must be worn. then it has the rod that attaches to the side of the gearbox (sorry dont know the right name for it), and goes to a bracket that is attached to the inside of the drivers wheel to control the steering. When I turn to the right, my tire hits this rod. I think I should be able to have another bracket made that extends and inch or two closer to the inside of the car which will give more clearance for the wheel to turn (only need and inch or two). Not sure if this will put it in a bind on the other end though.
Not sure if that makes any kind of sense without me having photos, so if not, I will post again about that issue when I can get photos.
Again, yall have helped me a ton just letting me know what I have!!!
|02-17-2013 12:07 PM|
Realistically you aren't going to put IFS on that car unless you move the wheels back. The front suspension it now has is a dropped tube axle with a transverse leaf spring set up "suicide" style out in front of the frame. As said, it's a common T bucket style front not usually found (though some do) on later cars. There are plenty model A's out there with it but when you get up to 32 you usually don't see it.
What are your issues with the front? You mentioned you like the look (it is a neat little car) The tie rod out front is usually a no no being that it messes with an important steering principle, the Akerman or steering angle. But in your case it looks like it has steering arms on the spindles that are tucking the tie rod end way out into the wheel area that either is giving you that Akerman angle or close to it so that should be fine or good enough.
What is the problem you need to address with it?
|02-17-2013 11:17 AM|
Ah, I bet you are right! I notice now looking at other 32's that the frame shows along the sides, and it doent on mine.
I acutally likes the way it looks (something different), and maybe that is why!?!
Thanks for the reply!! Gave me something else to look into!
|02-17-2013 11:05 AM|
From the picts It appears what you have is a T Bucket style chassis, front axle and tie rod out in front. It looks like your body is channeled over the frame. A stock style 32 frame is wider than the T bucket frame and Contoured to match the bottom of the body and floor, and most 32's sit on top of the frame, Highboy Style. The next question is "what is the rear suspension design, does it work right,? Depending on the front frame rail spacing, and contour, you might be able to graft on a IFS kit, , relocate the grill radiator to get the look you want. My 31 Nash roadster project. I still need to fabricate the doors, then start on the chassis, I have a Jag Xj6 IRS for the rear and a Jag F 40 pieces that I will custom fabricate a new crosmember for the front IFS , Make the frame to match and channel the Body, Just my preference, From the Cars I always had to look at when I was a kid, Dudley's Deuce Coupe , chopped, Channeled, Full fenders and running boards, My sister-in-laws father repaired it in 33 after a roll over, chopped the top, etc. a couple of chopped and channeled A coups, A chopped and channeled full fendered 34 pickup. And of course we had to channel the 31 chrysler roadster we built in highschool. My 32 ford glass roadster will go Highboy on repo frame rails, just cause channeling a Glass body is too much hassle for me.
|02-17-2013 10:42 AM|
32 Roadster (I want to change up suspension)
Last year I bought a 32' roadster. As it sits I would call it a "rat rod" style I guess.
Anyway, since I bought it I have been busy training for Ironman Triathlons and have not had time to 'play'.
The car has some issues that I want to attack and not being familure with these cars I am not real sure how to go about it.
As it sits it has a create 350 Chevy motor (maybe 260hp), which I will be removing and building. Before I start that though I have some issues with the steering and the suspension.
I do not like the front suspension and would like to upgrade it. They way they have it set up (as seen in pic), it is well in front of the radiator. I have not seen this before, but actually kind of like it. The only thing is I wonder if there is a way to install a IFS in that location? Or, what would be a better option that would be better that what is on there now.
I am not real versed on the terminology on any of this, so forgive my ignorance.
I will get to the steering issues after I resolve my front suspension setup.
I home by the photo maybe some of you can see what I have and maybe give some suggestions! I am out of country right now, but will be able to take better photos as soon as I get back if needed!
Thanks for any tips, advise, or whatever