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Chevy 383 Roller Build (cont.....)

19K views 96 replies 12 participants last post by  ChevroletSS 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys started this new post so there wasnt anymore confusion, Sorry bout that. I have a 94 c1500 roller block (638) fully machined for roller setup and fuel pump. The plan is to get a forged bottom end from howards. This engine is going in a 79 El Camino SS with a 4 speed Muncie Trans, and 3.73 gears. Below is a list of parts I am going to use to try and reach my goal of 500 HP and TQ around there also. What do you all think about these parts? Ill be coming to you all in the future for help and advise while building this and Ill also have pictures posted in the project journal.

Here are two parts list with dyno results. They are fairly the same but Im thinkin one of these would work. Also thinking about going with the E-Street EFI system.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/edelbrock-e-street-efi-systems


Horsepower:503 HP @ 5500 rpm
Torque:517 @ 4500 rpm
Engine:383ci
Heads:AFR Street 195 Cylinder Heads
Compression:9.5
Carburetor:Holley 0-4779 750 cfm
Ignition:MSD Distributor 36° Timing
Cam:Comp Cams 12-433-8 Hyd Roller Cam
Exhaust:1 3/4" Headers
Fuel:93 Octane Pump Gas





Horsepower:491 @ 5500 rpm
Torque:501 @ 4000 rpm
Engine:383ci
Heads:AFR 180cc Street Cylinder Heads
Compression:9.5
Carburetor:Holley 0-4779 750 cfm
Ignition:MSD Distributor 36° Timing
Cam:Comp Cams 12-432-8 Hyd Roller Cam
Exhaust:1 3/4 Headers
Fuel:93 Octane Pump Gas
 
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#72 ·
Can anyone help me out with what pickup I should use with this oil pan.


Thanks for the help


JEGS Performance Products 50223 JEGS Street & Strip Oil Pans
Did you read that Melling oil pump and pickups will not work with that pan. You will have to buy Jegs brand HV oil pump 555-23502, adjustable street/strip/race applications 555-23501, std oil pump 555-23500. Std. pickup 555-50240, HV pickup 555-50241. Gasket kit 555-210094. GOTCHA!!!
 
#75 ·
There are as you know a number of variables involved with this.Not that it matters much,but who's crank did you buy??. Just a question in ref to machining tolerances. Take nothing for granted.Measure everything.What does the crank manufacture tell you the clearances should be given your application??. Sometimes given who's crank you bought you find you have to use two different bearing haft's of different sizes to set the clearance's you want.
 
#74 ·
I went with Moroso for my pan, pump, and pickup. Pump is a Melling big block pump. It takes a little more power to turn, but it is WAY smoother than the small block pump. Just be sure to get the shorter distributor/pump rod, as the big block pump's shaft is taller.
 
#78 ·
I don't understand Barry.If I said something that offended you,it was not intentional.I will say this through.All oil pumps have to be taken apart and checked for crap inside them.You'll be surprised what you find.

In terms of bearings,you want to get ones that have a high embedment(sp) rating.Kings bearings are extremely round,good materials,and have that high embedment rating.They cost more,but I think they are worth it.:thumbup:
 
#80 ·
As far as oil pumps go, I always take them apart before brazing the pickup to the pump. Also, I take the spring out and replace it with the Corvette spring. I get 60 psi at hot idle and no fluctuation (because of the big block pump having more flutes on the gears). The big block pump also is equal to the small block high volume pump.
As far as bearings, I use Clevite 77 on a hardened, stock (not reground), or nitrided crank. I use aluminum bearings on a crank that has been ground and not re-hardened or nitrided.
 
#83 ·
Glad to see someone besides me likes to have decent hot idle oil pressure. I've been getting getting burned at the stake for using HV oil pumps, but it really makes a difference in bearing wear, especially when you'll be running it at low rpm (like a street car).

I also use King bearings exclusively now, nothing against Clevite, I just think King is better.
 
#81 ·
Barry.We have had a boat load of combo's over the yrs.The reason why is we have a racing operation turn into a business where we where racing a 9.90 car for a yr and flip selling them. before this came to past we had a 69 Camero that we ran with BBC's in it.We went through hard times with that having 5 different BBC engines in the car in 4 weeks.All of them damaged beyond repair.We sold everything,car,trailer,parts,everything except the tools and seat out from active racing for two yrs.During that time we still,well really developed,a trade in selling parts and realized a market for selling the race cars.But those hard times almost ended active racing for us.

When we came back on line with a race program we still feeling the sting from BBC's started back using SBC's.

Here my point.All those engines and up to last season's BBC 632 and the yr before back-up 565 BBC,all we used was Kings bearings without a single failure. It is that company that we used for all the hard core race engines we have built for people over the yrs as well.It's for that reason I have such a strong endorsement for that company. Also we have won a national and a whole bunch of track and regional events with them doing hot laps in the finals.
 
#82 ·
Hi, It seems that some posts got sent to my email and got lost on this site. I had asked somebody's age (to determine their experience) and they replied that they were 9 years older than I.

.
Replying now to another post:
I have nothing against King Bearings. I just have no personal experience with them. I went with the suggestion in "How to Hotrod Small Block Chevys" back in the early 70's. That's how I cam to use Clevite 77 bearings.
 
#84 ·
Small Block Chevys seem to run okay as long as they have 40 psi at hot idle. I had a machinist make a mistake on a crank once, and the hot idle was only 25. It went downhill little by little, and by the end of the month only had 10 psi at hot idle. I gave the machinist Hell over that and also gave him some not-so-good PR. Some speed shops took my word for it and took their business elsewhere after that.
.
Small Block Mopars like higher oil pressure, such as 60-80 psi at hot idle. It is because of the way the oil passages route inside the block. There is a fix that involves putting an oil bypass line in the valley, but I don't like doing that. If anything breaks, you can't see it until the engine goes south on you. I still remember the external copper top end oil line on the old "Y" block Fords that would work harden and break. Oil went everywhere. What a Mickey-Mouse outfit that was. "Have you driven a Ford lately?" lol
 
#86 ·
Gotta question for ya guys... I was looking to get the AFR 195cc street heads but seen that jegs and edelbrock have their own 195cc heads with 64 cc at a lower price. The way I see it if they all have the same specs will they all give me the same results. If I can get a pair a little cheaper I will as long as I get the same result but not sacrificing quality taking in consideration that jegs and edelbrock are good brand names and have a good reputation.

Thanks guys for the help..
 
#88 ·
195 cc is how much volume the intake port will hold. This is a common way to base line compare the heads so you can size them for the intended use. Between two different brands of 195 heads they can be completely different in port shape and air flow volume at each RPM range with comparable conditions. I wouldn't buy heads on port volume alone. You should know flow rates and compare dyno runs with other components similar to what you intend to run and suiting your intended purpose.
It's pretty easy to buy cheap and in the process throw your money away. I know, I've done it enough:(
 
#90 ·
hey guys gotta piston ring question. Im trying to figure out if my gap is correct. The paper that came with my rings says that when the rings are compressed in the grooves that they should not stick outside of the grooves. Is this all I need to look for or go by or whats the process I need to do.
 
#93 ·
Im need some help getting an idea what my CR is. Every calculator I use keeps giving me 1.39:1 and I dont know what Im doing wrong.

Bore: 4.030
Stroke: 3.75
Chamber cc: 64
Gasket Thickness: .045
Head Gasket Bore: 4.060
Piston to deck height: 9.025
Piston volume:-12cc

I DONT HAVE A HEAD GASKET YET I HAVE BEEN TRYING OUT DIFFERENT NUMBERS TO SEE WHAT WORKS BEST. i ALSO AM GUESSING ON THE GASKET BORE
 
#94 ·
Your piston to deck height is not 9.025
More like .025 depending on piston compression height and block deck height.
And chances are your running a DISH piston not a dome top, so you would need to enter +12cc for piston volume.

You need to measure piston to deck with a straight edge and feeler gauges at least, if you don't have proper tools.
 
#96 ·
Ya I messed up the deck height according to my dial indicator is .021 but Im guessing that might be around that. and they are dished with a stock deck height. 9.8 would be nice but might want to go lower for pump gas.

Thanks guys for the help I knew I F ed up somewhere.
 
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