|03-01-2013 07:15 AM|
I'd think the one in the photo, with the shut off valve is the inlet.. (78 g body 3.8 buick v6)
heater core inlet out let are on the same end(top) so the flow through it shouldn't matter much as far as the heating of the air
|03-01-2013 07:10 AM|
a sealed pressurized system, even filling the heatercore from top will move the air to the top of rad. if it fills from bottom and has to push the fuild uphill through the core it could stall and give you an air bubble..
my '86SS has no vac coolant flow valve.. that iirc is on the top hoses going INTO the heatercore. if so equip.. at least my 85 buick la saber was.. and my 71 c-10 is..
|03-01-2013 06:47 AM|
|Durdeydolla||Went back to the drawing board, I found out that I had my inlet and out let backwards on heater core and the t fitting is tieing in cold resivour fluid into that hose to heater core. When weather breaks im going to switch them. But 496chevy3100 has a good point, if it filled at the bottom instead of the top. But dosent extra air goes to resivour tank to be epelled from system??? No heater valves on system, and my intake is tied directly to resivour tank. One issue with overheating a year ago because of a bad waterpump. Engine runs cool just no cabin heat, we got snow and ice rain now. But my point is whole system is fine I narrowed it down to heatercore hoses. Any autozone bleeder valves part numbers I can use to tie into inlet hose so I can bleedit???|
|03-01-2013 12:04 AM|
|02-28-2013 11:01 PM|
|02-28-2013 11:00 PM|
the heater hose outlet/inlet on the lt1 might be backwards. not sure, and if so.. that would be his problem..
|02-28-2013 09:59 PM|
|496CHEVY3100||Just a thought ,is it a reverse rotation water pump did you change location of heater hose to match flow,|
|02-27-2013 01:42 PM|
Ok if all the modes operate properly and your blend door opens and closes properly chances are it is a water problem. Your original car had a heater valve. Does the system still have a heater valve? If not you have a vacuum hose off under the hood somewhere. If you do have a valve is it the proper one. Some heater valves open with vacuum and some close with vacuum. You can determine which you need by disconnecting the vacuum hose from the valve and and seeing when you have vacuum. Put the mode switch in the heat position and check for vacuum. If you have vacuum the valve is vacuum to open. If no vacuum put the mode switch in the A/C position and check for vacuum. If you have vacuum it's a vacuum to close valve. Remove the heater valve from the engine and see if it passes water in the appropriate vacuum mode. If you take a pipe plug and thread it into the hole where the valve was you can run the engine to attain a vacuum source. Make sure the valve is full open and closed by blowing through it. Hopefully you'll fine a bad heater valve.
You said you had good water flow through the heater core and it is a new core. If so, relieve the pressure in the system and take two sets of vice grips and pinch off the heater hoses being careful not to damage the hoses. switch them at the core and see if that makes a difference.
Get your self a Laser Thermometer (not to expensive) and check temps on booth sides of the core pipes . They should be the same and correspond to your temp gauge.
There is a couple of things to try.
For the vacuum schematics for your car you can find the original shop manual for your car on ebay. The factory manual is always the best source of information for your car.Get one.
1984 Oldsmobile shop manual | eBay
|02-27-2013 12:52 PM|
|Durdeydolla||Defrost works and bilevels, blend door is wired open so im going to double chech it. Recirculation?? Compressor isnt tubed to a/c so I might have to scan tool check it, but that should affect a/c operation not heater right? And I have a little heat while in park but not in drive. I been peicing the vacuum lines back together for 2 years ha, no schematics because car too old. But yes my controller transitions between vents. Proper vent blows when commanded. It really is perplexin type problem like all personal projects|
|02-27-2013 12:13 PM|
|02-27-2013 11:52 AM|
|Durdeydolla||Yes, I just repaired vacuum lines, heat is floor vent and dash vent closed, a/c is floor and dash vent. Im thinking hose placement or closed blend door (that I rigged to stay open)|
|02-27-2013 11:42 AM|
Let me ask a question. Lets not consider temp right now. As you go through all the different modes on your selector switch with the blower turned to high, does the air come out of the appropriate vent with full air force?
|02-27-2013 11:26 AM|
pics of my lt1 set up
Heatercore hoses placement, not to sure if they on the right side
|02-27-2013 11:01 AM|
|Durdeydolla||I was wondering about my heater hoses routing, I have the left side heater core hose on the bottom inlet on water pump. And the right side hose on heater core going to top inlet on water pump, wasnt to sure if heater core sides matter, it runs A1. Just no heat. And its a b-body, and yes my resovoir tank is placed higher then engine with a t-fitting going into heater core hose left side (passenger side) to bottom of water pump|
|02-27-2013 06:40 AM|
does this olds(guess'n cutlass) have a/c..
recheck that all the doors in the heaterbox are working..
I don't remember a shut off valve for the heatercore(like posted above) on g body's
it may bypass the heatercore when on vent and a/c that door might be stuck on vent, blocking all heat..
start car and get warm.. then touch upper and lower hear hoses, both warm...??
remember lt1 is reverse cooled.. do you have the heatercore lines reversed?? the water try'n to pump uphill through the core could stall the flow...
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