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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-01-2013 05:55 PM
gearheadslife long or short w/p
bolts lenth will be different..
oil pan is 2 different sizes (rear corners and bolts that go into timing cover)
03-01-2013 04:59 PM
bigdog7373
Quote:
Originally Posted by zmaxmotorsports View Post
Thank you sir !
The oil pan /timing cover and water pump bolt diameters and lengths are what I really need.
I'll see what i can do. I just moved so I'll have to look around a little
03-01-2013 03:44 PM
zmaxmotorsports I might just end up making studs out of some 17-4,but Ill try the button heads first to see if they look right with the parts I want to use on this project
03-01-2013 03:36 PM
zmaxmotorsports
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373 View Post
I hate allen and star bolts for engines. I had them on my 1.8t and when i did the timing belt i stripped nearly all of them. Such a pain to try to keep the bit perfectly in place while torquing in all down. I swapped some out for regular hex heads and the rest i replaced. No way I'd ever choose to put them in an engine if i could have normal bolts. Unless maybe in the valve cover, or to hold the carb down, but that's it.
Anyway....
I can get you the lengths of the bolts for a small block, i have a whole set here. Let me know which ones you want.
Thank you sir !
The oil pan /timing cover and water pump bolt diameters and lengths are what I really need.
03-01-2013 12:07 PM
cobalt327 You are going to find many OEM bolt and studs are not standard normally available lengths. The threaded portions are also often not standard, many have unthreaded shanks before the threads start. The underhead fillets are also important for strength in a lot of applications and will be hard to duplicate using common off-the-shelf fasteners. In my opinion, the only practical way to go about this will be to contract w/a manufacturer to produce what is needed. The thing is ARP has this covered already.
03-01-2013 11:11 AM
bigdog7373 I hate allen and star bolts for engines. I had them on my 1.8t and when i did the timing belt i stripped nearly all of them. Such a pain to try to keep the bit perfectly in place while torquing in all down. I swapped some out for regular hex heads and the rest i replaced. No way I'd ever choose to put them in an engine if i could have normal bolts. Unless maybe in the valve cover, or to hold the carb down, but that's it.
Anyway....
I can get you the lengths of the bolts for a small block, i have a whole set here. Let me know which ones you want.
03-01-2013 09:41 AM
zmaxmotorsports I asked about bolt lengths so I don't have to tear a motor apart to measure them,I didn't ask about bolt tensile strength or bolts seizing to other materials you guys brought that up!
I asked what I considered a reasonable question,apparently it was not.
So I will just go to napa and buy some cheap chrome bolts to measure.
03-01-2013 09:30 AM
496CHEVY3100 If you already know the answer and claim to know everything ,why are you askin,anyway,
03-01-2013 09:17 AM
zmaxmotorsports Well I guess all those dragbikes Ive been putting together over the years using stainless steel hardware and a little anti seize on the threads will be falling apart at any time now!
Ive been in the plumbing/electrical/hvac trades now on and off since about 1982,I know a little bit about electrolysis(spell check)
Anyway Im running the bolts into cast iron engine blocks in this case,theres no need to run a grade 5 bolt to hold a timing chain cover or an oil pan on a motor.
I grew up around flat bottem v-drive dragboats with blown big block chevys sitting in the back,Ive also owned a couple in the past as well.
And we used stainless steel bolts all over on those bolts including bell housing bolts.
There are stainless steels out there that can be be heat treated to obtain a tensile strength of 160,000 psi,so go easy labeling all stainless fasteners as weak.
And what do you think the tensile strength of an aluminum cylinder head or intake manifold your threading the bolt into is?
So anyway Ill just buy a set of bolts and measure the lengths to get my answer since nobody seems to know here.
03-01-2013 07:55 AM
496CHEVY3100 Stainless and aluminum will almost fuse togther over time even with antiseize, i have them in my motor ferderwells hood hinges ,, IF i could get them out i would replace them ,also they have Less strength than a grade 3 bolt They will BREAK ,my advice is dont use S/S use a grade 5 or better on engine parts,
03-01-2013 07:38 AM
gearheadslife very weak style bolt.. easy to snap head off.. and with s/s and alum or iron.. not play'n nice together.. I'd not want a weaker style..
03-01-2013 07:30 AM
zmaxmotorsports Ive used them on valve covers/timing covers and oil pans and water pumps before without problems ,I use the small headed arp bolts on intake manifolds
03-01-2013 07:21 AM
panhead1961 If you are going to use them on your engine you will regret it. They suck when trying to torque and impossible for tight places. If you plan on selling them, I don't know of anyone that would buy them for the reasons above. Valve covers and light duty app may work bit forget using them on critical torque apps.
02-28-2013 11:27 PM
zmaxmotorsports These are the kind of bolts I was talking about,I checked their site but they didn't specify bolt types unless I just wasn't looking in the right place
02-28-2013 11:07 PM
327NUT See Shop Totally Stainless.com - Home, they have complete buttonhead engine bolt kits. Used a set on my 507" Cadillac....very nice and only about $35
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