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383 build

15K views 97 replies 15 participants last post by  bjautos7 
#1 ·
hi , have started my engine build , here same photo's of what i have done so far.

started wth the block frist. cleaned all casting around the block just to make it look nicer.





 
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#3 ·
i allso went through the valley and cleaned the rear oil return hole by making them bigger , also at the front of the block i open up the front holes and made them level to the valley floor. you can see that i also have tapped the oil return holes on the valley floor.



 
#6 ·
this is a photo of the rods that going in. what i like about this rod is it's a 6 " with 7/16 bolt and stroker cleared. only had to clean up bottom of the bore a little and pan rail was sweet. if you look at the piston you can see it use's a skinner oil ring and the pistons pin don't go all the way in the oil ring landing like ofters do.

 
#10 ·
had too do this the old school way with feeler gauge and piston. when doing it this way you have to use the lower bottom of the piston as this is the widest point.

as for piston to valve clearance , yes plenty.

this scat was a balance kit that i got, but i had changed the pistons as the dish in the piston were to big at 19.60cc. when i had it re-balance , only had to remove 36 grams of weight from the crank so not to bad.
 
#17 ·


next was to clean up around the pump securing bolt on the rear main and blend it into the discharge hole leading into the block.



in the last photo i clean up entrance and exit holes in the oil filter location. the idea is to flow the oil passages so that the amount of oil pressure lost, as the oil progresses from the pump to the bearing is reduced.

 
#23 ·
hi every one , now i'm at the point too piant my block. block. what colour should i paint it. red , organe or black. what's the best way to clean the surface of the block before painting. has any one tryed carby cleaner or is there a better way.
 
#26 ·
as for cam it's a xr282hr. gross valve lift is .510 / .520 duration @50 230/236 intake center line 106.0 lobe separation 110.0 and with 1.6 roller rockers which make it 544/555 gross valve lift. which should make around 480-500hp at the flywheel and still be street friendly.
 
#34 ·
thanks for the good info , had done the hot wash , spray with brake clean to clean the suface, then masked up and now all painted. here are some photos of how it come out.
Nice build!

Small matter, but use a water pump gasket to mask the area that doesn't need paint. The way it is, you're going to have bare block showing.

Were the main bores checked after installing the studs?

I'm guessing this is a race engine, else the bearing clearance would be fine at a bit under 0.002, at least IMO. I'd rather see you using tools instead of plastigage to measure the oil clearance, though. What pan and oil pump setup you using?
 
#30 ·
Your build looks good. Only one observation, were the cam bearings installed when you tapped the oil plugs and ground the oil returns? I prefer to do all the fit ups and cutting with old cam bearings then remove them for the final cleaning. Crud tends to collect in the grooves behind them.
 
#32 ·
ok now thinking about the end play on the crank , have read in a couple off books with different answers for crank end play. some say between .004-.007 and others with .002-.006 , so which is it. when I checked my crank for end play I got .0025 . so is this with in the margin or to tight.
 
#35 ·
Years ago, I was talking with Joe Mondello on the phone about the end play on a 455 I was building. He told me to hold a block of wood on the crank snout at the front and fram hell out of it with a BFH, then go around back and do the same thing on the rear of the crank. That will set the thrust bearing and everything will be dandy he said. I did and it was.
 
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