|Yesterday 04:07 PM|
yes you are right I am all smiles....
mid 50* I guess and she is drivable, these are both a clickable link and a video that you can click on
VID00031-20140314-1639_zps35e9d65c.mp4 Video by bobs77vet | Photobucket
VID00032-20140314-1657_zpse62e13eb.mp4 Video by bobs77vet | Photobucket
I think early tomorrow am we may go a little bit further down the street.
|Yesterday 02:10 AM|
The first drive of any project you've built yourself is the most rewarding feeling.
Good to see the progress.
Now it's onto the bodywork.
|03-13-2014 09:52 PM|
well I finished bleeding the brakes with the Motive power bleeder and then cleaned up a little and put a wheel back on and then took her off the jack stands and looked at the car and said what the hell......I opened the garage door in the 22* weather at 11:15 pm and I drove it in and out of the garage under its own power......the first time the car has moved under its own power in over 40 yrs. I cant wait until the 60* days coming up. the car has so little weight in the back I have tire spin marks from backing it in the garage.....its first burn out in 4 decades. it felt pretty good!!!!
any body need 2 qts of clean, strained and recycled silicone brake fluid that was used only on all new parts. I just don't see a need to hold on to this until the next build. it would be perfect for any one who wants to switch from regular fluid to silicone and wants to use a sacrificial fluid as a first flush. pm me if you are interested
|03-12-2014 06:45 PM|
lets try this again...
clear coated the MC
let the MC sit on top of the bolts and install the fittings
I could tighten the brake line before it was installed but the clutch banjo got tightened after it was installed
filled up the clutch slave circuit from the bottom so there are no air pockets
the brake circuit got bled from the top
I only did one wheel tonight just enough to get the air out of the MC.
so I dont have any bone headed moments
AND IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|03-08-2014 05:07 PM|
PCV valve set up installed
this little handy bracket actually keeps everything together pretty nicely
I figured out I could make the choke work in the MGA over the filter style by reversing the abutment and changing the cable stop style on the HS4
the good radiator does not leak, we back flushed it extensively this morning
and we figured out how to drive the tublar rivets to mount the valve cover labels using punches, not very pretty but effective
the engine runs great and the PCV set up works as it should
|03-07-2014 12:35 PM|
in with the new water pump..... I use some RTV sealent on both sides of the gasket
I don't know why we could expect the holes to line up
I sprayed the water pump with some clear
cleaned up the good radiator and painted it, I used black lacquer since it is so thin I thought it would look more like radiator paint
|03-05-2014 08:43 PM|
lets play around with cleaning up the PCV and see what I can do with the broken exhaust studs
so this is the hand I was dealt, I had used nuts and bolts before for the test runs of the engines but lets see if I can get some studs in there
while tapping the threads you know the hole is in the right space when you get this
now to move on to the next one
looks like they burned the old studs out but I need the holes to be straight so I am using a file to clean it up
this will get a helicoil if this were a stressed part this repair is awfully close to the out side
I am using 3/8x 16 GM style exhaust studs, I really like the double long brass nuts
next one .....now this will be a challenge but at least I can straighten up the hole for the nut and bolt
a broken file chucked in the drill
cleaned up but too big for a heli coil so I am just using a nut and bolt I could plug it and drill it but its just not that critical to me.
cleaned up the PCV from the MGB
and the cap gets some stainless steel paint to cover the rust stains
|03-04-2014 08:52 AM|
|03-04-2014 08:49 AM|
we are iced in so heres a quick hour
I found the leak on the water pump and its at the bottom weep hole
definitely not a leaking gasket
time for a new water pump.
I was looking at the rear side tappet cover and the MBG is indented where the 1500 one is protruded and it is much thicker, the PCV front cover plate actually has a tubing collar where the bolt goes through almost like they are trying to keep oil off of the center bolt. I will leave these as they are but when I remove the intake manifold again to put the body on if the rear is leaking I will swap it with the MGB one
|03-03-2014 12:42 PM|
|evolvo||X2 on checking the pilot bearing!|
|03-03-2014 12:32 PM|
the pressure plate was installed correctly, its turned up side down for the measuring part of the picture taking process. it was the metal disk that the springs were in and the blue tape with the measurements goes to the edge of the disk. the spigot bearing looked fine . the issue was that disks splined drive point was not concentric and it got shoved into the inner part of the pressure plate when it rotated out of round thus mating the pressure plate and the clutch disk. and since the pressure plate rotates with the flywheel it would drive the input shaft.
|03-03-2014 12:24 PM|
you know where that's going...
55 minutes from putting the old components back on to having it installed... 15 mins to get it aligned and close and then 35 mins of wiggling and massaging the angles and then it slipped right in place with no effort.
cleaned paint over spray off of the oil filter mounting plate
2 hrs from start to finish
and heres the MGB valve cover and front tappet cover having the cork gaskets mated to the stamped steel with permatex
total time 2.5 hrs and the best part the clutch works perfectly, I can disengage with it a lever and I can turn the drive shaft by hand and it feels right .....I am a happy camper!!!
|03-02-2014 02:48 PM|
Your photos of the clutch disc shows it sitting in the pressure plate two different ways.
Could the clutch plate may have been installed back to front.
Could you look at the clutch plate and tell us which part of it was rubbing on the pressure plate?
Lastly how's the spigott bearing? if it's worn it may allow the clutch plate to run off centre.
|03-02-2014 02:15 PM|
about 2 hrs of work....I have a leaking water pump which needs to be replaced and I want to switch over to the MGB PCV so I need to take lots of stuff off any way.....and my clutch still just doesn't seem right. Using my mechanical pressure plate release I can release the clutch and move the drive shaft by hand yet when I turn the engine over and its running the clutch seems to be engaged? really strange.....it almost seemed like something is off center and acting like a cam picking up interfence as it rotates....
up up and away
hows that for a nice smooth throw out bearing...that sure doesn't look right
end of the shaft isn't scored
disk is mounted right
this isn't right ...........look at the shoulder that has been dug/grinded into the pressure plate
so as we looked at this we realized that the splined center of the pressure plate must not be centered, these are the distances to the edge of the clutch disk that sits in the pressure plate from the center opening
heres the old clutch disk sitting in the pressure plate showing the free play from side to side, the measurement shows the amount of the pressure plate I could measure from side to side
the new clutch disk has NO movement or free play
heres the shoulder that has been dug into the pressure plate
heres the undamaged side
so heres the bottom line the clutch disk Spline was off center and there was not enough free movement in the pressure plate opening that it sits in to accommodate the off centerness and the clutch disk would then be shoved into the side of the pressure plate opening causing the shoulder and since the pressure plate is mounted to the fly wheel it would drive the input shaft...
what a complete waste or time.....a MC with a defective cylinder.....a slave cylinder that sucks in air.....a clutch disk manufactured incorrectly and now a defective throw out bearing...
|02-23-2014 02:13 PM|
I'm not good at doing nothing....
I made this and used a nut and big washer on my old slave cylinder to make a mechanical clutch release
heres proof I am not nuts its a video just click on it, the clutch disengages
VID00030-20140223-1132_zpsb1c6dfda.mp4 Video by bobs77vet | Photobucket
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