Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> Switching cam shaft to fix fuel pump on 1988 Dodge Dakota
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: Switching cam shaft to fix fuel pump on 1988 Dodge Dakota Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
03-18-2013 09:36 AM
One to Remember oh yea i know now that it needs like 4 or 6 psi. i have bought I think 2 bad ones brand in the past thats just why I had been paranoid about it.
03-18-2013 08:00 AM
33Willys77 regards to oldndusty's post - Do not go by the 1987-1989 14.5 psi, that is not for a carbed motor.
03-18-2013 07:31 AM
oldndusty
03-18-2013 07:20 AM
33Willys77 Although it is not common to get a bad pump, you could get one. Clamp the pump in a vise and put your finger on the inlet side, then push the pump lever (very hard). You will feel the pull on your finger. If you have it in the truck, spin the engine over (dont start it) and put the fuel line in a can and see if it is pumping the fuel.
03-18-2013 02:00 AM
One to Remember how does one check a mechanical fuel pump externally? Would I just need to buy a brand new pump and put it in and if it doesnt work that means the eccentric is messed up which means my old pump is probably still good? I really need to just find a way to test the pump while its out period because a 25 dollar pump is going to bite into my budget and I need to know what I can avoid buyin or what I can take back to recoup some losses.
03-10-2013 10:48 AM
PatM An electric pump at 6 PSI is just like a mechanical pump at 6 PSI. The carb will behave the same way it would with a good factory mechanical pump. I'm not sure about the P.P. pump mentioned before my post, but the Carter I mentioned does not require a bypass type pressure regulator. Other, similar looking Carter's might require a regulator in your application, but the one mentioned will likely not require a regulator at all. If there is an issue with your carb using this pump, the issue is almost certainly with your carb. I know that isn't what you want to hear, but I do believe it's what you need to be told.

Good luck with this. I hope that you're able to get your truck's issue resolved.

PatM
03-09-2013 09:19 PM
One to Remember
Quote:
Originally Posted by 33Willys77 View Post
A stock fuel pump should be just fine - no need for special mods with this simple setup. Are you sure your pusing the pump lever far enough to test it - they push VERY hard - probably need to hold it in a vise. The pump eccentric is oblonged to make the pump work - and must be on because that would also hold on the timing gear - unless for some reason it came loose (not tightened correctly when put on). The pump will/should prime itself when the engine is cranking over. Test the output into a can and if it is pumping, the gas will pump into the can. If it pumps in, I would think the fuel issue should be fine unless there is some blockage. ??
Yea I know there is no blockage I cleaned those lines really good and probably about ten times. I didn't use a vice but I thought I should had put it in somethinng and put some real force on that arm. I'll inspect the eccentric, and the t chain and its gear. I'll just replace them all anyways just to be replacing I guess. I definitely can't spend 81 dollars on an elec pump though but those other parts might need replace because like I said the motor mount did break in the past leading to a bad ride and my fan eating my radiator.
03-09-2013 09:12 PM
33Willys77 A stock fuel pump should be just fine - no need for special mods with this simple setup. Are you sure your pusing the pump lever far enough to test it - they push VERY hard - probably need to hold it in a vise. The pump eccentric is oblonged to make the pump work - and must be on because that would also hold on the timing gear - unless for some reason it came loose (not tightened correctly when put on). The pump will/should prime itself when the engine is cranking over. Test the output into a can and if it is pumping, the gas will pump into the can. If it pumps in, I would think the fuel issue should be fine unless there is some blockage. ??
03-09-2013 06:12 PM
One to Remember thx Pat and Greg, so do you two also think if I get a low enough PSI unit that theres no way the carb will flood or overflow? Like is the psi so low that even if its left on a return line won't be needed and the clip on the carb flots holding back the needle tip at the end of the fuel line that goes up front won't be forced opened or anything?
03-09-2013 09:54 AM
PatM Not knowing a LOT more about the engine, I cannot be certain, but I'd be concerned that the ProProducts pump shown would be a little bit light @ 28 GPM. Carter makes a simple electric internally regulated vane pump (regulator not required) that will pump up to about 72 GPM also at about 4-6 PSI. Check out Carter Universal Rotary Vane Electric Fuel Pumps GP4070 - SummitRacing.com

Edit: Note that if you find it necessary, this pump can be further regulated with an in-line (non-return) regulator.

PatM
03-09-2013 08:27 AM
Greg T HERE ya go. Much cheaper and easier than pulling the motor apart.
03-09-2013 12:02 AM
One to Remember
Quote:
Originally Posted by 33Willys77 View Post
That must be an old motor - dont remember 318s being in boats, but it should be basically the same. No reason for having a bad pump, never really came across that issue. It should not take much to fill that carb. You may want to check out the carb and make sure its not filled up with gunk. Also, when the pump is put on, take the fuel line off by the carb and turn it over and see if gas will spray out (into a can). Make sure the pump is primed first. It is not uncommon for a pump to go out, but then again its not a very common thing either.
My friend exaggerates alot too. I amm going to get the numbers off the motor to put its age and origins to rest though. like i said the suction on the pump was there but very soft, the same on the other 2 or 3 new ones. i had them go directly into a jar beneath it and it didn't have enough suction to empty it. the carb has been rebuilt by this redneck oracle I know so I trust the carb with my life lol. I still cant help but wonder if the eccentric was warped when that motor mount broke and my fan ate my radiator. I will confessed the new mech pumps weren't primed though. That is why I was also curious if the eccentric, t chain replacement, and sprocket replacement was tantamount to nipping this issue in the bud? Those 3 items I am willing to put money on/in.
03-07-2013 09:33 PM
33Willys77 That must be an old motor - dont remember 318s being in boats, but it should be basically the same. No reason for having a bad pump, never really came across that issue. It should not take much to fill that carb. You may want to check out the carb and make sure its not filled up with gunk. Also, when the pump is put on, take the fuel line off by the carb and turn it over and see if gas will spray out (into a can). Make sure the pump is primed first. It is not uncommon for a pump to go out, but then again its not a very common thing either.
03-07-2013 05:51 PM
One to Remember its a one barrel carb, carter i believe. im not sure if my mech pump had the long arm or short one since ive not taken it out in a few months but i know i got the right one at the store when i replaced it. I have in the past gotten bad mech fuel pumps from O'Reilly's but I got 3 replacements for this mech pump on this 318 "boat" engine and im not sure if buying an older mech pump for a 318 is gonna help, thats my concern and I want to at this point just deal with the mech pump so it will drive like it was when I first got it with no stalling, no overflowing, no reaching for light switches, no killing the batteries due to excess cranking. Is there an easy way to analyze and figure out why the mech pumps arent working?
03-07-2013 05:32 PM
33Willys77 By the way, the pump in the picture is not a picture of a small block mopar pump. They have a much longer arm.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.