|03-12-2013 06:40 AM|
|Bonneville462||I buy short pieces of brake line and use couplings.. I never had any luck making my own flares..|
|03-10-2013 07:30 PM|
|327 / 350 hp|
|03-10-2013 07:28 PM|
|39 chev||I used the copper-nickle tubing to plumb my T-bucket.It bends very nicely and takes a double flare well. I use a step drill from harbor freight to de-burr and square up the cut end.The bit is the exact size to fit into the tubing.the next size step squares the end. The copper nickle has been discussed here before.It has been used in europe for years.another plus is that it doesn't rust like plain steel line.|
|03-10-2013 05:38 PM|
|03-10-2013 03:03 PM|
|spinn||What do you guys think of that green colored napa easy bend tubing? It uses the bubble flare fitting. You can do loops by hand real nice.|
|03-10-2013 02:30 PM|
My own flaring tool used the thickness of the side of the button (others may have a line), but I found mine works with better just slightly more than that. I guess I should have said to experiment while practicing to see if slightly more or less yields a better flare.
|03-10-2013 10:19 AM|
2) most buttons or tools/ have a line on then to show how much line needs to be outside of the clamp
|03-09-2013 09:52 PM|
As nice as the tool is looks like it would have a stop where the tubing should be in the clamps but you have to just guess at it how far it goes in. I have tried it several different ways. I am using a tube cutter but will try a hacksaw or cut off tool.
|03-09-2013 09:36 PM|
Knowing that tool, the problem must be tube preparation, because every one I know that has one do not have problems. If you are using a tube cutter to cut it, stop. A tubing cutter hardens the end of the tube as it cuts it, and puts a giant burr on the inside of the tubing. I cut it with a 3" cutoff wheel, and deburr inside and out. I get a perfect flare just about every time, maybe one in a hundred is bad.
One other thing, if you have an inch designated die in your flare tool, and are using it on metric tubing, or vise versa, it won't work right.
|03-08-2013 09:13 PM|
|sedanbob||Assuming you are double flaring mild steel tubing. Preparation is key. I had my best luck cutting the tubing with a dremel tool w/cutoff wheel, followed by a fine file to make sure it was even and square. Used the file to bevel the outside edge, and a countersink bit (by hand) to de-burr the inside edge. Make sure the tubing extends the right amount through the clamp (usually a hair more than the thickness of the side of the 'button'. Clamped it tight as I could, put a drop of oil on the button, then put the button on the tube end to start the first stage of the crimp. I always had to make sure my tool was centered before tightening - there was a little play, and just a little can make the flare crooked. I was also careful not to tighten the second stage to flatten the flare - let the fitting do that last little bit. Practice makes perfect. And always remember to put the nut on first - nothing worse than a perfect flare you can't use. Good luck!|
|03-08-2013 08:46 PM|
|evolvo||These guys Federal Hill Trading Company are the experts on brake line.|
|03-08-2013 08:09 PM|
perfect only works with oem tooling.
even with a snapon hydraulic flare tool a double flare can be a challenge.
as long as you did a double flare and the seat looks good, that what counts.
steel is easy, ss can be a bear.
i did all ss lines
|03-08-2013 06:16 PM|
Flaring brake line problems
Bought this %%$^# fancy Mastercool flaring tool. Cut up about three feet of %$&^% line trying to make a perfect @#$%^^$ flare....AIN't gonna happen.
Back on it tomorrow!!
Thanks for listening,