|03-10-2013 02:35 PM|
|T-bucket23||Check to make sure the fans are not running after you shut the car off. A stuck fan relay can wreak havoc. Pulling fuses one at a time while monitoring an AMP meter in the battery line should help to start to pin the issue down. I have seen stuck relays on high draw items like fans, fuel pumps etc kill a battery in short order. I have also see rear window defrosters come on by themselves but this was on Ford Crown vics|
|03-10-2013 09:48 AM|
|todd_clary||The battery is being recharges. It's a red top ultima deep cell battery.. No the altinator has not Been required lately. The remote start is completely gone. Also the 1996 model does not come with a engine compartment fuse box, just the one on the side of the dash|
|03-10-2013 09:43 AM|
|todd_clary||Ill look into all of this. The car is just a project for me, but I'd really like to get it fixed|
|03-10-2013 09:11 AM|
|fastfrank||Try a different battery|
|03-10-2013 08:47 AM|
|fwinter01||ensure your ABS pump is not energized, they love to short. good advise above going through the engine fuse box. Found a odd problem on a 98 Tahoe, the knife blades on the fuse wore from ruff years of dirt roads, replaced all the fuses with new it solved many issues|
|03-10-2013 08:17 AM|
I had a 96 Blazer with similar problem. Turned out to be in the radio circuit. Pull the fuse that serviced the radio and it was ok.
Sorry, this was a beater, parts car, that was bone yard bound and I never did actually repair the problem. Darned thing also had a glitch in the wiper circuit. If it was cold and dry outside, the wipers would work. If the temp got over 55 degrees, or rainy, no wipers.
The cruise controll would activate the throttle at any time, for no reason, with switch off and sometimes at almost a stop. Strange gremlins in that thing..
|03-10-2013 05:59 AM|
Man that's some draw. I assume you checked the, cable from the battery to the starter and fuse blk and they were ok. I also assume you are charging the battery back up with a charger...... so with a fresh charge on the battery, after 20 min, battery hooked up, place your hand on the alt housing, if it's warm, you prob have a short in the internal regulator etc....... Has the alt been replaced/ rewired lately?
Did you remove the remote starter completely?
|03-09-2013 08:47 PM|
So if you disconnect the battery for the day, it will start the vehicle OK after you hook it back up ? When you started at 12.2 volts that's less than a 50% charge. Did you have the battery checked under load?
If it's OK, then take the + cable off the battery, put a test light between the post and the cable and start pulling fuses. BTW, you were using a voltmeter not an ammeter. If it's drawing that much power you probably shouldn't hook up a multimeter in ammeter mode.
I'd start with unhooking the the red wire at the alternator. If you have a diode or 2 burned out power can run through it. Does it charge ok? Another big draw item that you might not notice is on is the rear de-fogger.
|03-09-2013 12:51 PM|
|todd_clary||just an update.. i pulled out the dash and removed a ton of wires as well as a after market black box that i assume was for remote start even tho it did not work. when i plug in the battery and use a amp meter on it i can sit and watch it drain.. i left the meter connected and watched it drain from 12.2 to 12.05 in about a minute and a half... no wires under the dash look melted or even got hot.|
|03-09-2013 12:40 PM|
|crownver||Something you said reminded me of a problem I had with a Dodge van I had, and maybe something you could check. The daytime running light module packed it in and the headlights stayed on permanently. You could unplug the module just to try it.|
|03-09-2013 07:06 AM|
|todd_clary||Really hoping I can find it with out pulling the dash|
|03-09-2013 06:00 AM|
If I remember correctly..... those late 90's vehicle had a lot of memory type circuits........ so If you pull the fuses one at a time, you need to wait several minutes before you pull the next one to let the capicitors bleed off, otherwise you wouldn't be able to tell etc....
I'd still inspect the wires 1st, then go into circuit elimination..... I'd check to see the all the interior lights and thier switches aren't shorted..... dome lights and make sure any and all door switches work properly including the rear hatch. The wires in the hatch might be in a flexible boot that moves with the door, that area would interst me alot. Glove box light, console etc......
I'm thinking that since it goes dead in just a few hours that you have more than a slight draw, you have something that's shorted or shorting out and that's causing the massive draw. And if that's correct, use your hands to actually feel the wires to see if thay are getting hot
|03-09-2013 04:57 AM|
|todd_clary||Ok awesome thank you guys|
|03-08-2013 09:20 PM|
I'm thinking there is a draw somewhere in your system. A short to ground would likely burn out the wire that was shorted.
I would pull the positive battery cable and put a test light or an ammeter between them, then start pulling fuses one at a time, until the light went out or the ammeter went to zero. At least then you know what circuit to be looking at.
|03-08-2013 07:32 PM|
You might have a short somewhere......... I'd start by un-hooking anything that was spliced into the OEM wires..... ie radio, amps, lights etc..... see if you still have the issue. If the issue goes away, then hook them back up one at a time to locate the faulty circuit.
Use a flashlight and look at the cable that comes from the battery to the starter, the wire from the starter to the fusebox as those are hot at all times, look for any melted wires under the dash.
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