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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-24-2013 02:35 PM
sbutler Like I said....I got shafted. Steve
03-24-2013 11:31 AM
Coodeville I took one of my machines to the mechanic and he only charged me 100 bucks to clean and adjust everything. Well worth it.
03-17-2013 06:04 PM
DanTwoLakes Wow, that's too bad. You're doing the right thing, though, by just chalking it up to experience and moving on.
03-17-2013 05:28 PM
sbutler Boy Guys, this went South in a hurry. Ended up in one of the biggest cuss fights over a phone I have ever been involved in. This guy is crazy, enough so that I carry my gun EVERYWHERE with me. I think it's time to just write off the screwing I got and stay out of prison. He works on contract for the store owner and he says he is not responsible for this nut. Moovin' on. Steve
03-11-2013 12:27 PM
DanTwoLakes The 255 RB-3 ( I have one) has a large bobbin and is self oiling, but is otherwise pretty much just like the 226R. Don't know how the guy could have looked at the machine without blowing out all that crap. "Air intakes"? No such thing on a sewing machine. A sewing machine is never starved for air like an engine could be. That would be like a fishing reel being starved for air.
03-11-2013 12:12 PM
sbutler Thanks Dan, I made another mistake.... machine is a Consew 255RB-3, if that matters. I pulled the end cover off the motor and it had two handfuls of carpet fiber in it. I am not exagerating on the amount. The air intakes were also full. I took a lot of pictures of this. I am going to the owner and ask for all my money back because I don't think he touched it other than to clean the outside of the machine. Thanks, Again
03-11-2013 09:38 AM
DanTwoLakes The top thread will always feel tighter than the bobbin thread because it is going through a lot more places than the bobbin thread. You will only feel slight resistance from the bobbin thread when you pull it out. When you actuate the knee lift or raise the foot manually, it releases the tension disks on the upper tension to allow you to pull thread out easier. Don't try to pull thread through the machine without doing one of those two things. Yeah, the guy sounds like he hosed you on the check-up.
You can replace the clutch motor that is on the machine now with a servo motor and do it yourself, but you may need a slightly different belt. My recommendation is the Sew Quiet 5000, which sells for around $200 with free shipping.
03-11-2013 08:16 AM
sbutler One more thing, I downloaded the operator's manual and it said the thread, I assume bobbin and main spool, should have equal pressure. I can barely pull the main thread. Is this something else I can tell the owner that was not done? Thanks, guys.
03-11-2013 08:12 AM
sbutler Well....tried to sew a scrap piece with my Consew 225 that I just paid $389 to have serviced. Besides all the trash inside of the door on the left, the door was so loose it was about to fall off. He didn't even attempt to tighten it. There was no signs of fresh oil in there either. I told him I was a complete novice and would like a variable speed motor put on like one that my brother had put on his machine. He assured me it wasn't necessary. I assumed the stock one would start slow and speed up with pressure on the foot plate. Boy was I wrong! This thing runs wide open, which is way too fast for me. Machine is going back to the store owner so he can see what I am talking about and hopefully understand my request for at least half of my money back.
03-04-2013 09:04 PM
sbutler Well guys, picked up my Consew 225 from the repairman. He told me it sews like a dream the tune of 389.00 which included rebuilding the control box on the motor. The outside was cleaned up and looked nice but when I opened the door on the left of the machine, it looked like it had not been touched. I would have at least blown the carpet fabric remnants out. Looked on the back of the machine, under the lip portion and it still had carpet residue up in the crack. It was used to sew floor mats in a former life. Live and learn I guess. I did buy 4 packs of 10 needles in an assortment of sizes, two spools of thread and two boxes of pre-wound bobbins. Ready to give it a try. I appreciate your help and look forward to more schooling from the forum. Steve
02-27-2013 07:39 PM
duh57 I knew thats what you needed. I used to have a repairman stop by about every 6 months for about 10 years, thats how I learned to repair and set the timing on any machine , so always ask him questions. Glad Dan and I could help
02-27-2013 03:17 PM
Fast Jimmy

So I had timing belt installed and my machine looked over and adjusted by a repairman who's main job is maintaining machines for an industrial sewing manufacturer. He was kind enough to walk me through the whole process and described everything he was doing and why it needed to be that way. Then he ran some test samples and showed me what adjustments affected the stitches and how it affected them. It was well worth the effort to find this guy and well worth the cost. Now I can try to sew. Fast Jimmy
02-24-2013 03:56 PM
sbutler I'll let you know how it turns out. The guy does good work,( from references), so I hope everything works out. We will see how the "port and polish" works out. Ha Ha. Steve
02-24-2013 10:53 AM
Fast Jimmy

Well, I've found a repairman that makes service calls and he'll be in town next week and will look my 111W155 over and put the timing belt on for me. He says he's worked on this model before and sounded knowledgeable.
Thanks for the advice. Fast Jimmy
02-22-2013 04:32 PM
duh57 I have never heard of port and polish in a sewing machine, but some times they will polish the Hook so there is no burrs and sharp places on the Hook and thread guides.
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