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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-23-2013 04:43 PM
swvalcon I've worked on two cars in last year that had metal damage from sand blasting. Only sand blast in door jams and places where it wont show. I did do a little blasting on the rear fenders of my 64 stude but they are really thick and I was very carefull with it. I wouldn't use soda either. Most of my paint stripping is done with 40 or 36 on a da both 6 and 8".
03-23-2013 02:05 PM
Old Fool Love the disclaimer on the aircraft stripper page - not for use on aircraft!
03-22-2013 02:14 PM
OneMoreTime
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trucknut View Post
I've stripped plenty of cars. It seems to me that almost all strippers today claim to be "aircraft" strippers. Well, I've stripped and painted a few airplanes, also. My best advice would be to tell you not to go cheap on the stripper. Just like anything else, you get what you pay for. I use JASCO Premium Paint & Epoxy remover. Cost is about $31.00 a gallon at Lowe's and it works very well. If you apply it according to the directions and what's been said on this thread, you should do well. After stripping I use 80 grit to clean it up with a random orbital. Just remember to give the stripper time to do what it does. And, as mentioned, don't let it dry on the panels. If it does you'll end up loading up a lot of sand paper trying to get it off. I usually wash mine down with lacquer thinner after scraping.
Hot soapy water and waterborne wax and grease remover then prime..Like Brian says do a panel at a time..

Sam
03-22-2013 11:55 AM
aggie jon
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
On the stripper,that I have done a ton of and have a few tips. The trick to stripper is you simply mask off what you don't want it on just as if you were painting it. Here at work we will strip the roof of a year old car leaving not a mark on the rest of it, simply my covering the car in plastic, exposing the roof by cutting it out and then adding some masking paper over the top around the top just for good measure. After it's stripped being very careful to peel the paper off as to not touch or drip it on the car and wham, done deal bare metal roof.

Seams and such you always want to cover with duct tape then after it's stripped you remove the duct tape and remove the paint and gunk in the seam with a surface conditioning disc .....

But this is the norm, to cover up what you don't want stripped. I have even done complete cars that were assembled (no chrome and handles and stuff though) where all the door, fender, hood, trunk seams were duct taped and any other holes like antenna and handles and locks. Then remove all the tape and sand off the remaining and wham, bare metal car.

One thing I can't stress enough, if you can't really jump on this car and knock it out in a day and sand it and get it into epoxy primer I HIGHLY recommend you do a panel at a time. It takes a little more time but you don't get overwhelmed. it is VERY easy to be overwhelmed by a bare metal car sitting there. And you just can't walk away until you feel like it. So doing one panel at a time getting it back into epoxy primer then moving onto the next is a recommendation.

Brian

Brian
What's the name of your stripper? Sorry, couldn't resist. Honestly though, what brand of chemical stripper (and source) do you prefer? I've used the stuff from Home Depot before on tractors. And what is your process for making sure the stripper is neutralized and ready for primer. Thanks
03-12-2013 03:00 PM
Trucknut I've stripped plenty of cars. It seems to me that almost all strippers today claim to be "aircraft" strippers. Well, I've stripped and painted a few airplanes, also. My best advice would be to tell you not to go cheap on the stripper. Just like anything else, you get what you pay for. I use JASCO Premium Paint & Epoxy remover. Cost is about $31.00 a gallon at Lowe's and it works very well. If you apply it according to the directions and what's been said on this thread, you should do well. After stripping I use 80 grit to clean it up with a random orbital. Just remember to give the stripper time to do what it does. And, as mentioned, don't let it dry on the panels. If it does you'll end up loading up a lot of sand paper trying to get it off. I usually wash mine down with lacquer thinner after scraping.
03-12-2013 12:05 PM
Chevymon When some experenced painters swear by a product that I am having trouble with, I have to assume it is a problem with some part of my procedure.

But if there are several others that also have trouble with the same product, then I my have to decide if the benifits of that product are worth the effort to me, or if there might be another product that will give me what I am looking for.

And it is usually just a matter of learning how to use the product properly.
03-12-2013 10:38 AM
zmaxmotorsports When I get out there again Ill ask him how he does it,I know he wants nothing to to do with parts that are chemically dipped or stripped with paint stripper anymore
03-12-2013 10:10 AM
OneMoreTime Soda is alkaline in nature and most primers are acidic so if any soda residue is present it will neutralize the acid in the primer and then the paint does not stick..Some guys have somehow escaped this issue but a lot have not and tha tis why we do not recommend soda.

Sam
03-12-2013 09:58 AM
MARTINSR He is referring to the paint manufacturer, not a painter. The paint manufacturer, every paint manufacturer I know of says DO NOT use soda stripping.

And like sand blasting it "can" be done, there are people who have sand blasted sheet metal for years without destroying it, so it can be done. But the overall majority of times it causes irreversible damage (or close to irreversible).

So what is happening is your painter is getting around this very difficult problem of the soda embedded in the metal, he is neutralizing it properly. If he didn't you WOULD know, we are talking total and complete catastrophic failure.

Brian
03-12-2013 09:41 AM
zmaxmotorsports
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
check with your pait supplier BEFORE using soda blaster NO paint company i know of will warranty wheir paint if you use soda it leaves film that effects paint .You can use a Dustless Blaster that uses water and recycled glass ,check on web. Your state might be different but i dont think so,You can strip an entire car under an hour.
My painter has never complained about me bringing him shells and body parts that were soda blasted,been using it for maybe 10 years now without issues.
Back when I used to have parts chemically stripped by a shop who would dunk them in a big vat full of nasty chemicals we had lots of problems with paint sticking because parts would come out too smooth and sometimes it was a pain in the *** to get it out of hidden areas.
We used to have to sand every square inch of a part inside and out just to get primer to stick after the chemical stripping
03-12-2013 08:33 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevymon View Post
Brian, there is a very good explanation of how the stripper works and some tips on using it in this link
Acetone • How to Paint Your Own Car, Auto Body Discussion Forum & Videos • AutoBody101.com

http://www.wmbarr.com/ProductFiles/A...%2025%2009.pdf
Very good stuff there, I love how understanding the product at a chemical level helps you use it better, I sure learned this lesson with paints! But yes, and what he said about letting it dry is a no-no, very good basic info that REALLY changes things. I was blown away when I first started brushing only one way spreading it out and not back stroking, just that changes EVERYTHING in how that stripper works.

Brian
03-12-2013 08:25 AM
Chevymon
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Very good point, details details.

You can cover it with plastic after you apply it but if you do one other thing you don't much need to. That would be you don't "Brush" it like you do paint, back and forth. You pour some out then "spread" it out ONE WAY, with the brush. Don't back stroke, spread it out one way. The reason being the gases escape when you back stroke it and open the surface again. This makes a HUGE difference in how the stripper works. And this isn't out of my head, it says so in the instructions.

Another thing is you run some very coarse paper like 36 or 40 over it well to scratch the surface so the stripper can jump right in and do it's job.

Very good point to bring up there Dave!

Brian
Brian, there is a very good explanation of how the stripper works and some tips on using it in this link
Acetone • How to Paint Your Own Car, Auto Body Discussion Forum & Videos • AutoBody101.com

http://www.wmbarr.com/ProductFiles/A...%2025%2009.pdf
03-12-2013 06:23 AM
496CHEVY3100 check with your pait supplier BEFORE using soda blaster NO paint company i know of will warranty wheir paint if you use soda it leaves film that effects paint .You can use a Dustless Blaster that uses water and recycled glass ,check on web. Your state might be different but i dont think so,You can strip an entire car under an hour.
03-12-2013 12:04 AM
zmaxmotorsports Ive had decent luck stripping sheetmetal with a soda blaster,takes a while but its much easier on the metal
03-11-2013 08:52 PM
timothale
paint removal

There is a lot of info here on hotrodders in the Wiki Section. , My willys had about 6 coats of paint and I scraped the top layers off, a lot of chips, no gooey mess until I got down to the bottom layer and used stripper. I also use my 3500 Psi pressure washer, to remove the stripper-paint that doesn't come off easy with a scraper. It will remove a lot of paint just slower, I also have a wet blaster from northern tool for heaver metal parts, frames ,axles, etc. water and sand, NO dust, just a wet mess, I had my nash roadster blasted by a guy the restorations guys use. He knows what he is doing and doesn't warp panels but cannot get out all the pits in sheet metal.
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