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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-17-2013 11:56 AM
Lizer The hilarious thing about this thread is now at the bottom of the page where the recent thread icons are, this thread is represented by a big pic of a double cheeseburger.

And I'd like to go on the record and say that Brian has probably never been more wrong in the history of the world than he is now. McDonald's is ****ing AWESOME anyway you slice it.
03-17-2013 10:33 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK View Post
Sooooo, what one are you talking about, that is crap??

There are a number on the market and funny thing about this they are made to accomplish certian things and they usually do that very well.
Some are made for bumpers, some are made for interior work, some for cleaning normal bare metal and prep work outside of car.

They all do good for what they are made for but one made to do interior, is not going to work on bare metal worth a crap.

Do I also take this as you use a solvent cleaner on TPO, TEO, PP and PE raw bumpers???? What is the comeback ratio?

Buy the solvents at ace hardware or use the wrong solvent for the job and yes, I can see why you think it is crap.

When you used glazing putty on the endura bumper and had to redo, was it the glazing putty, that was crap or not knowing what you are doing?
OH MY GOD!!!!! just when I thought I knew what I was doing ,NOW they have TPO,TEO,PP and PE W&G and THATS just the water born stuff ...
I just bought my first gallon of water born W&G just for a raw bumper cover...I was planning on using the rest of it when I ran out of my slovent based...Things were so much easier when I was ignorate...
Why is it the more I learn the harder this work is? after 35 yrs things are supposed to be easier...These days I cant even prep a car without feeling like an idiot...
Heres a story (a true one)
I was prepping a car for paint one weekend and ran out of my good SPI solvent based W&G ,I called my dist. (at home) but he was out of town for the weekend.....all the supply stores were closed too,so I went to O'rielys and got a qt of theirs...man THAT stuff was the WORST crap I ever used.It wouldn't evaporate so I knew it wasnt working but used it anyway but only on the hood and roof ,the stuff actually had more fish eyes where I used it than where I didnt..I looked at the ingrediants and it was mainly mineral sprits not alcohol...I ended up giving it to someone to clean greasy front end parts,didnt work so well for that either....What I learned uplicolor cant even make a usable wax and grease remover...never mind about the (laughable) primers and paints....
03-14-2013 07:31 PM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK View Post
I understand what you are saying and sad part is if you do ask as lot of times will not know themselves, the training is getting worse and worse.
Buy the way a good grade water-wax and grease remover, used in the right area can be anywhere from 2-8 times better then solvent BUT must be the right one made for the job you are doing.
yeah, there's still some ignorance in regards to the usage I'm assuming and it's like we expect the same out of the water borne as solvent for every application. You'd know way more than I would on the subject. Far as I know we're probably using the wrong kind of whatever reason.
03-14-2013 02:34 PM
BarryK
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
I'm not a water based cleaner expert but from my experience it hasn't worked that great. This comes about the shop trying to stay in line with regulation.

As far as the glazing putty, I'm not too prideful to admit when I'm wrong. I always will ask the questions. There's nothing wrong with that in my opinion unless I think I know it all.
It's the guys who think they know everything who put themselves in a bind cause they build up this "net persona" and when they get into a bind they're too prideful to ask. So true.
I understand what you are saying and sad part is if you do ask as lot of times will not know themselves, the training is getting worse and worse.
Buy the way a good grade water-wax and grease remover, used in the right area can be anywhere from 2-8 times better then solvent BUT must be the right one made for the job you are doing.
03-14-2013 01:52 PM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK View Post
Sooooo, what one are you talking about, that is crap??

There are a number on the market and funny thing about this they are made to accomplish certian things and they usually do that very well.
Some are made for bumpers, some are made for interior work, some for cleaning normal bare metal and prep work outside of car.

They all do good for what they are made for but one made to do interior, is not going to work on bare metal worth a crap.

Do I also take this as you use a solvent cleaner on TPO, TEO, PP and PE raw bumpers???? What is the comeback ratio?

Buy the solvents at ace hardware or use the wrong solvent for the job and yes, I can see why you think it is crap.

When you used glazing putty on the endura bumper and had to redo, was it the glazing putty, that was crap or not knowing what you are doing?
I'm not a water based cleaner expert but from my experience it hasn't worked that great. This comes about the shop trying to stay in line with regulation.

As far as the glazing putty, I'm not too prideful to admit when I'm wrong. I always will ask the questions. There's nothing wrong with that in my opinion unless I think I know it all.
It's the guys who think they know everything who put themselves in a bind cause they build up this "net persona" and when they get into a bind they're too prideful to ask. So true.
03-14-2013 12:46 PM
BarryK
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
sometimes I think that water based grease and wax remover is more like "dirt based" grease and wax remover. That stuff is as harsh as silk. Might as well get out the dawn cause that stuff sucks!
Sooooo, what one are you talking about, that is crap??

There are a number on the market and funny thing about this they are made to accomplish certian things and they usually do that very well.
Some are made for bumpers, some are made for interior work, some for cleaning normal bare metal and prep work outside of car.

They all do good for what they are made for but one made to do interior, is not going to work on bare metal worth a crap.

Do I also take this as you use a solvent cleaner on TPO, TEO, PP and PE raw bumpers???? What is the comeback ratio?

Buy the solvents at ace hardware or use the wrong solvent for the job and yes, I can see why you think it is crap.

When you used glazing putty on the endura bumper and had to redo, was it the glazing putty, that was crap or not knowing what you are doing?
03-14-2013 11:50 AM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool View Post
One thing I have noticed is that a panel needs to be cleaned with solvent based w&g, then cleaned with water based w&g. There are contaminants that each will remove faster easier better than the other, or so that is how it appears to this old fart.
A good washing with Dawn, then a wipe down with a solvent base. When ready for paint I wipe it down once more with water borne. Might just be me, but the vapors from the isopropyl alcohol give me a head ache if I don't wear a respirator when using the waterborne.

Mitmak, you can save a few more dollars if you buy paint thinner instead of Mineral Spirits, its the same stuff. Get it in 5 gallon cans at Parker paint and save a few more dollars per gallon.
Great degreaser for use in your parts washing tank.
sometimes I think that water based grease and wax remover is more like "dirt based" grease and wax remover. That stuff is as harsh as silk. Might as well get out the dawn cause that stuff sucks!
03-14-2013 11:47 AM
tech69 Barry and Martin bring up good points. Barry will always bring up something you never knew before, which is great for the forum. I personally wouldn't use mineral spirits cause using it is the last thing you put on your car(besides tack rag) before putting on the most expensive thing, paint. So my issue would be residue and evaporation time. When you wipe off your grease and wax there's still a tad there to be evaporated so you're relying on it to be gone with no residue afterwards. That's where the problem would be for me. It's just not worth the few dollars you can save. I could be wrong though, maybe it works great as a grease and wax remover, but I wouldn't go testing it. I'd rather let you and others test and tell me about it later.
03-14-2013 12:49 AM
gearheadslife
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes View Post
Brian: I have the same problem trying to convince people to use marine grade or automotive grade vinyl in their car interiors. They all say "but this was a close out and only $6 a yard". My next question is: "do they have more if you make a mistake?"

I never use anything that I don't know where it came from and if I can get more. This is even more important with leather hides. I never use close-outs of leather, either.

I sure am glad there are no fish eyes in upholstery work!
thats like anything..tools are big.. people buy the no name over the name brand then a year later are shocked they can't get parts for it..
03-13-2013 08:45 PM
Old Fool
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
.

Yep, I am big on quality materials and tools, even as a hobby, I just feel you owe it to yourself to save you from work and headache on something that is suppose to be enjoyable.

Brian
+1
03-13-2013 08:44 PM
Old Fool One thing I have noticed is that a panel needs to be cleaned with solvent based w&g, then cleaned with water based w&g. There are contaminants that each will remove faster easier better than the other, or so that is how it appears to this old fart.
A good washing with Dawn, then a wipe down with a solvent base. When ready for paint I wipe it down once more with water borne. Might just be me, but the vapors from the isopropyl alcohol give me a head ache if I don't wear a respirator when using the waterborne.

Mitmak, you can save a few more dollars if you buy paint thinner instead of Mineral Spirits, its the same stuff. Get it in 5 gallon cans at Parker paint and save a few more dollars per gallon.
Great degreaser for use in your parts washing tank.
03-13-2013 07:22 PM
Dave57210 When I heard the news that there was White Smoke, I instantly suspected a blown head gasket.....
03-13-2013 05:32 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes View Post
AMEN!, brother Brian. BTW, I'm glad the Cardinals listened to my advice and elected a Pope from Argentina.
You were behind that huh?

Brian
03-13-2013 04:05 PM
DanTwoLakes AMEN!, brother Brian. BTW, I'm glad the Cardinals listened to my advice and elected a Pope from Argentina.
03-13-2013 01:26 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes View Post
Brian: I have the same problem trying to convince people to use marine grade or automotive grade vinyl in their car interiors. They all say "but this was a close out and only $6 a yard". My next question is: "do they have more if you make a mistake?"

I never use anything that I don't know where it came from and if I can get more. This is even more important with leather hides. I never use close-outs of leather, either.

I sure am glad there are no fish eyes in upholstery work!
Not being in that business I never thought about it but yeah, getting a portion of the vinyl or just enough leaving no room for error would be like getting just enough paint. You run out and WHAM you are dealt one that is a bit different and your work looks like crap.

Yep, I am big on quality materials and tools, even as a hobby, I just feel you owe it to yourself to save you from work and headache on something that is suppose to be enjoyable.

Brian
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