|08-29-2014 08:23 PM|
|deadbodyman||1ST time? looks fantastic to me ....and I've been at it over 30 yrs You have an eye for it ,thats for sure...|
|08-25-2014 05:52 PM|
|LSs10||Hey thanks for the update. Looks pretty dang good. Keep the progress reports coming. thanks.|
|08-25-2014 09:18 AM|
Sometimes I am reading old threads to get info and wonder if a project ever got finished, or if the problem got solved, so I thought I would throw an update pic of the car on here. Thanks again for all the great advice on this forum. The spi products worked very well for me.
i'll try to get another pic on here when the car is back together.
|04-06-2013 12:05 PM|
Your right LSs10...I tell people to spray base medium wet, never wet. Medium wet to me means that the base is wet enough so that if there are any metallic's, they have a chance to lay down properly and wet to the point that when the solvents evaporate from the base coat your left with a nice even, flat finish to lay clear over top. If it's sprayed dry, the clear will look as though it has dirt or texture in it, if it's to wet, it could have peel in it that will transfer to peel when it's cleared. Also if base is sprayed to wet, the surface will dry and trap solvents underneath...when you clear it, the base will open up , release the trapped solvents and when the clear cures, you have a real good chance of the clear peeling off in sheets.
|04-06-2013 11:44 AM|
|LSs10||Also in regard to spraying your basecoat. You should not spray your base to wet. 3 medium coats of base is what that ppg needs imo. Better to go with 3 proper coats of base than trying to get proper coverage laying on 2 heavier coats.|
|04-06-2013 09:35 AM|
3/8th of an inch of filler is to much...that's one of the reasons that the filler is cracking. I can't see the previous repairs in the pictures so it's hard for me to give you concrete advice but, chances are you would be better off to replace the previous repair with new metal. If the filler is cracking it's because it was put on to thick (1/4 of an inch, which is what most filler manufacturer's recommend to be the maximum depth or amount of filler, is more than what I would ever put on on one spot, let alone 3/8 of an inch and when you dig the filler out, chances are you find rust underneath it). When filler cracks, water gets in the cracks and filler is a sponge and will suck up moisture causing the metal underneath to rot.
Yes, with out a doubt, you are doing the right thing taking the car down to bare metal.
|04-06-2013 09:21 AM|
thought I'd give an update
Spent some time building a paint booth with all the useful info here.
Started stripping paint, here is what I am finding
top layer comes off really easy with a razor, dark grey under it sands off, factory paint below it is a real pain to wheel/sand off, primer under it is easy.
Just wanted to make sure I was still doing the right thig to take the whole car to metal and not just scrape the crappy top layer.
I also wanted to get opinions on the rear I found patched, there was up to 3/8 filler in areas, is this normal/o.k. to smooth the welds out a little more and re-fill with that much filler or should I be looking at trying to pull out the dips more?
|03-18-2013 06:45 PM|
I don't know how the person who is painting your car paints but 1.5 gallons is lots of base coat. Reduced it should take 1.5 US quarts per coat maximum which means that you do in fact have enough for 4 full wet coats of base. PPG Deltron covers well and the fact that you are going over top of a dark grey/black primer and the color is dark, it should cover in 2 coats. That being said, if you don't have a mixing system it's always a better idea to have more paint on hand than you need, there's nothing worse than running out in the middle of a paint job. Just a tip...don't reduce all the base coat...reduce what it as you need it and when your done make sure it's sealed up real good and tight...it'll last for years then.
|03-18-2013 06:06 PM|
|99tjadams||I'm sure this is asked a lot but am ordering base tomorrow and am thinking 1.5 gallons will be enough for a fourth coat if need be, and if not I will have extra for repainting plastic and endura bumpers in the future, or extra for screwing up a coat ect. This is a pain for me to get, but figured two gallons would be overkill. It will be PPI Deltron DBC very dark green on black SPI epoxy with SPI reducer using a devilbiss HVLP gun.|
|03-17-2013 12:00 PM|
Glad to hear that all's coming together, the fact that you can take the paint off with a razor blade is even more reason to strip the car. Can you imagine painting over top of paint that comes off that easily?
When you start stripping the car, be sure to keep your sandpaper sharp...when paper gets dull, you generate even more heat and have greater risk of warping the panel
Good Luck and keep us posted.
|03-17-2013 11:40 AM|
Doug was great to deal with, epoxy and cleaner is on its way, hopefully getting the base from the lower 48.
If there are other canadians reading this in the future I called a lot of people to track these down, hopefully im allowed to post them.
Horizon in langley sells dupont/nason
Pacific western paint and kms tools sell ppg omni
Chase autobody sells sikkens
Shirwin williams atx is at 604 299 0929
Lordco and kms tools sell dp50lv
But as far as primers go, as fsaid above why not deal with doug kennedy SPI.
By the way I threw a razor blade scraper at the paint, wow that works well, and no dust, way way faster and cleaner then sanding to get the top coat off.
I have a 7" buffer so I may try that, just worried about the heat, i"ll be starting on the hood when im back in two weeks as its off the car allready. Going to sharpen up some scrapers.
|03-16-2013 01:14 PM|
|94 turbo||if it were me i would remove the doors to to weld the patch panels,those doors will warp easily if left on. lay them on sawhorses flat to weld. ive found that the low voc canadian dupont nason products work better than ppg omni lowvoc , good luck|
|03-16-2013 08:38 AM|
get a backing pad for a buffer, cause you'll need a buffer later on after you paint. Then you can put 40 grit on your buffer with a slow speed and buzz that paint right off. Use a DA for roofs and decklids. Using a DA on that whole car will take forever.
|03-16-2013 08:27 AM|
You have the luxury of time...When you can build a car and not have a hard and fast deadline you can do a much better job. You've made the right choice and when your car is done, you will know that it was done right...Painting a car properly isn't cheap and if a car is painted on the cheap that's exactly what your going to get. If it's done right the first time, you can get years of enjoyment out of it...done wrong, or not done as you said by taking the "correct steps", you might get 6 months of enjoyment and then rust will start coming through again and all that time, searching for answers, materials and money spent will haunt you and the common phrases used in 6 months when done wrong are....woulda, coulda, shoulda.
Congratulations, you won't regret your decision.
|03-16-2013 01:02 AM|
|99tjadams||I think that post sums it up. If I go ahead with painting it should be stripped. The engine won't be complete until Dec (porting heads this sept while im working in camp 6 weeks). I think once I have all my materials lined up I will start stripping and bribe someone to come over and do some patch work. Hopefully I get some reasonable prices on paint monday and get in touch with SPI. I'm in camp for the next two weeks, so besides ordering I will hopefully get started then. By the way, this forum is a huge help to me, just as jeep forum was when building my jeep and garagejournal was when doing my epoxy floor, and a dozen others, how this was all done before the internet amazes me.|
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