|Yesterday 06:35 PM|
|37ford4dr||I am using lacquer duplicolor paint shop red. its a base coat and then a clear coat. its a lacquer based product. This is the paint I am using for several reasons but mostly the ease of spraying. I am not saying that lacquer is the best paint because its not. I am not saying it takes less effort because it doesn't. I am also not saying its cheaper then using other paint but its not really much more expensive. I have used this product before and I was really impressed with it. We sprayed my sons old vintage camper with this paint and it has been sitting out side in complete sunshine for 3-4 years and it gets no love whatsoever and it has not faded or had any paint issues what so ever. I also like the patina of the lacquer paint jobs they just look right to me. I know theres lots or people who don't like lacquer paints and I have sprayed other paint products before, but for this car this is the paint I am choosing.|
|Yesterday 04:22 PM|
I am using lacquer duplicolor paint shop red. its a base coat and then a clear coat. its a lacquer based product. This is the paint I am using for several reasons but mostly the ease of spraying. I am not saying that lacquer is the best paint because its not. I am not saying it takes less effort because it doesn't. I am also not saying its cheaper then using other paint but its not really much more expensive. I have used this product before and I was really impressed with it. We sprayed my sons old vintage camper with this paint and it has been sitting out side in complete sunshine for 3-4 years and it gets no love whatsoever and it has not faded or had any paint issues what so ever. I also like the patina of the lacquer paint jobs they just look right to me. I know theres lots or people who don't like lacquer paints and I have sprayed other paint products before, but for this car this is the paint I am choosing.
|Yesterday 04:19 PM|
tent city time......
lets take off the fender for all the finish prep work
just more sanding and adding filler where any welding was done that I missed before
prime with self etching primer
and then high build primer
next it will get sanded with 400 wet and then get painted.
|Yesterday 01:19 PM|
|Loose Ctrl||Looks good.What paint manufacture are you using?|
|Yesterday 12:59 PM|
that extra sanding last night really paid off, I only had enough time to put two more color coats on but nothing is popping out at me, again I don't need perfection it just cant jump out screaming for attention.
it needs one more top coat and then the clear coats. lacquer can be color sanded in between coats if you want to, that removes all over spray and makes the paint flat for the next coat. I used the small touch up gun on this and the pattern wasn't quite a big as I would have liked it to be.
|09-03-2015 07:01 PM|
well I just kept sanding away.....using 220 and 400 paper. the door skin definitely has movement to it so it was a little tricky but I let the different layers of paint/primer filler etc reveal the path, I don't need perfection I just don't want it to be wavy, so I used 220 on a DA and kept looking for the high spots and once I got them down I followed with 400 wet sanding
followed by a coat of self etching primer that I must have forgotten to take a picture of and then gray primer.
this got hit with some 600 grit paper and then wiped down with a cleaner and I only got one coat of top coat on it before the rain came.
this is perfect though it will let me eye ball it really well tomorrow in the sun and see if I improved the situation. last time the unevenness popped right out at after the first coat of paint. This time I cant see any problems.
|09-02-2015 08:38 PM|
first for the frightfully sad photos of my buddies engine....and if you have a weak stomach don't look....think of the valve float going on when you do a 7k rpm shift accidentally into a lower gear....
corvette Z 06 race engine ( that's a bad *** corvette for racing)
look at 5:30 and 6:30 in the water jacket, along with the piston gouge, that my friends is a cracked water jacket and a $12k boat anchor
ok now to my task at hand, I think every car project should have at least 18 wire wheels.....the sickness must be deep inside of us, to accumulate so many wheels...especially when what I really want is knock off minilights......so the 4 wire wheels that came with the car were nothing more then an enabler for rolling the car around, in fact two of them are loose on the hubs. so I got 14 wire wheels from a couple of forum members in the hopes of mixing and matching to come up with a nice set. PennieH set me up with the wheels that came off of her running car when she upgraded to new wire wheels and new hubs. these wheels with older matching tires will let me adjust the alignment and make the car be able to actually move about which was exactly what I was hoping for, making my chassis drivable around the neighborhood, and was a perfect fit for my need, thanks. so that left me with another 10 wire wheels, so we got out the dial indicator and started measuring all the 18 wheels..... Moss says the run out should be less then .055, well lets just say that between the run out and the splines being good enough to use I may be buying those mininlights sooner then I expected. it just doesn't seem to make any sense to buy spokes to replace missing and bent ones, try to true the wheels, buy tubes and tires and have them mounted and balanced when what I really want is minilights. so the junk wheels are getting sent to the metal recycler and the other wheels that are close enough for someone to make right will get passed along.
now this weekend I am going to try to get the two front fenders painted, the door that needed some more sanding painted and the inner fender splash guards painted
so we are going to sand the door and look for low spots
those red spots in side the gray spots are the low spots and the doors will need more sanding, needless to say I am not sure now I missed those spots but I think the door skin may have been flexing on me when I sanded it before. its no big deal we will just fix it now
|08-16-2015 05:40 PM|
well squeaked out another 1.5 hrs of work tonight painting inner side of boot and bonnet and put seam sealer on rear fender patch
final coat of paint , clear coat will be done when the I do the last coat of clear on the top side after color sanding.
|07-28-2015 11:27 AM|
Thanks.I used the musings of another as well.
|07-27-2015 08:15 PM|
very nice on the bike turn signals.....I cant take credit for coming up with the idea only following the well written instructions from Barney Gaylord the MGA guru. it was a fun project
|07-27-2015 01:51 PM|
|07-27-2015 10:25 AM|
this is the turn signal relay ,this car has one rear light with the dual filament bulb,one filament for lights and one for brake/turn signal , this is the relay so the brake lights get interrupted when braking and using the turn signal. it also seperately uses the regular style cylindrical three prong flasher to make the turn signal flash
|07-26-2015 04:55 PM|
|Loose Ctrl||That's so cool.Is this the charging regulator rectifier relay,or power distribution relay?|
|07-26-2015 03:55 PM|
all the soldering is done and now to test the relays to see if they work.....and they do
and done with the hard part now just to clean up the screw in connectors
|07-26-2015 02:17 PM|
good time to post some pictures on todays efforts while the epoxy is drying
cut and stripped to length with a black mark on end that's goes to the base
I cut mine more flush and closer to the plate then Barney did and he used a slot to solder the wire where I used the tab. ( why you ask because I skipped reading his first page, if I were to do it again I would do it his way it makes soldering easier) I did leave in place the bottom of the magnetic coils and just trimmed them, with the grinder
epoxyed in place
sand, prime and paint the top cover in a stainless steel paint
now back to finishing the project
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