Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic -- Hot Rod Forum

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> 700r4 rebuild 3-4 lower pressure plate
User Name
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: 700r4 rebuild 3-4 lower pressure plate Reply to Thread
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
03-25-2013 01:41 PM
rick 427 And before you put that servo in,be sure that the check ball in the back of that servo bore freely moves up and down in its cage.
03-25-2013 01:06 PM
rick 427 clear things up,the completely flat,smooth, machined all the way across the surface side FACES YOU after its put in the drum.That way,if you had a few thin steels,you could start the stack up with a clutch on top of it, instead of a steel,and get an extra clutch in the set-up.If not,then proceed with your stack up as removed,starting with your steel on top of your allready installed smooth side up pressure plate.....and yes,follow the instructions carefully,and do the servo mod. If it shifts harder than you like,it will be because of the corvette servo you are using,not the mod you did to it.That mod,as well as the rest of that kit,focuses more in proper shift timing[cleaner shifts],not hard shifts..
03-23-2013 06:37 PM
91chevyss ok thanks on the pr valve and to clear things up the completely smooth side faces the 5 leg plate? I should have started a thread for the rebuild lol. Another question the rebuild kit came with a corvette servo and I took the snap ring steel cover and spring out of my old servo to put in the corvette servo but my transgo says to discard snap ring and cushion spring and install shims and by doing this would the shift be too hard. Should I do the shims or the spring?
03-23-2013 04:59 PM
rick 427 are such a help...on that pressure plate,I allways install that with the [thin]step side down against the retainer,so forget my earlier post [really sorry for the confusion].I like the total clutch clearance to be in the .035-.045 range after the air check without those springs in there. And yes,grind that portion of the valve away.It eliminates a possible ''PR buzz when cold'' condition.Like transgo says,it's not picky.A bench grinder works fine to do it.
03-23-2013 02:55 PM
91chevyss heres a pic of my valve and instructions.
03-23-2013 02:48 PM
91chevyss heres the 5 leg plate and pressure plate with stepped side facing up. [IMG][/IMG]
and the smooth side up and you can tell it has markings on the wide section that look to match the 5 leg plate so I think I have found my answer lol I feel dumb. [IMG][/IMG]
but heres another pic with the stepped side with markings and the first old steel
Also if yall can help me clear something up on my transgo reprogramming kit. I have installed the hi rev spring kit in the input drum and changed all the springs and I left out the old helper springs would that affect and clearance or should it be the same as it was still have the factory amount of clutches and steels. Also the 1st step on the reprogramming kit says to grind one of the lands flush all the way around on the PR Valve. Question is what does this do and should I do it and does it make since also installing .500 boost valve. Can post pic for the PR valve if needed. Thanks
03-23-2013 02:04 PM
91chevyss Yeah I have the 5 leg plate and then the thick plate after the thick its the the first steel. Ill go pull it apart real quick and post a pic. And thanks for helping.
03-23-2013 09:54 AM
rick 427 Pics sure do help,Crosley...I am assuming he has the 5 legged retainer thats in pic #1...but i'm not sure what style pressure plate he has on top of that.Thanks for jumping in.
03-23-2013 09:48 AM
Crosley 91chevyss ; lets get visual, it helps me. Which do YOU have?

Plate for 700r4 :

this will have a thicker plate on top. Spacer plate sometimes ''stepped''... one side is raised , other side is depressed since the plate is ''stamped'' that way

4L60E plate (modifed by me):

This plate, look close: is machined on top flat side. I machine these down to increase area for more frictions & steels. Normally this plate is flat on top. You set friction directly against this plate, no spacer needed like the thin plate in other photo.

03-23-2013 09:30 AM
rick 427 If it is the style of pressure plate where the inside raised flat portion of that pressure plate is flat and is the width of the clutch or steel,then the raised side indeed faces you.
03-22-2013 09:44 PM
91chevyss I can disassemble the 3-4 pack and take a pic to be sure since its still out of the trans. But its the pressure plate between the 5 leg plate in which the legs face down and the first steel. And the pressure plate is completely smoothed on one side and stepped all around toward the center on the other side. do you know why its like that and I read somewhere that some are stepped on both sides.
03-21-2013 08:42 PM
rick 427 The side of that plate where the lugs are flat/smooth along with the rest of the surface:i.e. completely machined evenly thru the entire surface,faces you when installing....the other side,which is a thin machined ring,and the lugs are not machined,faces down. Thats the piece you are referring to,correct?
03-21-2013 08:04 PM
91chevyss an update when I pulled everything out to replace check ball in the input drum and as I was reassembling everything I took a look at the old steel that was above the lower pressure plate and it had the same wear marks as the stepped sided of the plate so does the stepped side need to face or does it matter. I figured the stepped side needs to face me since the marks matched up to an old steel.
03-20-2013 02:30 PM
91chevyss totally forgot about my transgo shift kit it said to leave those springs out. now I have to pull everything out of the input drum that I put in and i had it completely assembled lol. I have to get rid of the check ball in the drum also.
03-20-2013 10:57 AM
rick 427 As you can see,those are strong, stout springs with very little travel in them before the coils are completely closed..On an initial build,where the clutch clearances are nice and proper,i'm sure there is no difference if they are there or not in reguards to shift feel.But in the long run,when the clutches start wearing and the clearances open up a bit...due to their design,I just feel that those springs do more harm than good by being there.I could get into more detail,but this thread would turn into bathroom reading material.I have never had any issues by leaving those springs out, and I feel its an improvement by not putting them back in,as far as long term shift quality goes.But this is just my opinion,and they will continue to be future land fill to me.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:30 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.