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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-30-2013 09:12 PM
painted jester The .0013 is minimum tolerance reading the .003 is the maximum safe reading<the point of replacing> if I get a .003 reading or .0009 I will get .001 or .002 oversize or undersize to bring the inserts into a good range of specs.

03-28-2013 08:32 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. P-Body View Post
Agreed, King makes a good product. We tend to allow a little more clearance in a rebuild than "factory specs". Shouldn't present a problem at .003".


I search around and find the spec's anywhere from 0.0013 to 0.0030 as being OK. and the ole plasti-gage method is not exactly error free. I figure if the copper is showing out then nows the time to slide in bearings with the pan being down. Yet again maybe I leave the sleeping dog lie?, the thing has 75 lbs oil pres at speed and about 25-30 hot. 15-40 rottella.

Original bearings with 95 thousand miles, I think I am gonna pull some more caps and check it out closer. Anyhow one thing is for sure they are tiny little caps.
03-28-2013 03:48 PM
Custom10 Roger that Gary1
03-28-2013 02:42 PM
1Gary The Kings bearings is the brand name used for Blueprinting because they are extremely round and accurate in sizing.The have a high embedment quality in the materials for street use as well.
03-27-2013 07:58 AM
Custom10 Thanks for the replies. The bearings are stacked one on top the other and then a clear poly like plastic wrap around the works. Seems there is no oil or other wet coating them at all, so maybe this is the "clean" type of packaging.
03-27-2013 07:01 AM
Mr. P-Body Both guys are "right". Some bearings are vacuum-packed in a "clean" environement, and need no "prep". Others are packaged in an oil-skin type paper, and do require washing before use.

ALWAYS inspect them for flaws or damage. Slight "nicks" can be rubbed out with scotchbrite or REAL FINE steel wool, and washed afterward.

Agreed, King makes a good product. We tend to allow a little more clearance in a rebuild than "factory specs". Shouldn't present a problem at .003".


03-26-2013 08:04 PM Wash in solvent. check for flaws, air dry , lube and install.
03-26-2013 07:39 PM
Richiehd King Bearings are very good. Make sure the top half has a hole in it too! (I assume the hole for main bearing oiling in the upper block half) I do not wash bearings at all. Wipe the dust off them and lube the bearing side with quality assembly lube. Keep the back dry and slip them in. Loosen all the mains first and tighten after all the top halfs are in, this will allow you a little clearance to slip the bearings in. Plastigauge new ones, make sure you can turn motor over after assembly. Dont forget to prime motor and fill filter before start up.
03-26-2013 07:12 PM
Main and Rod Bearing Prep

Just for general discussion. I am preparing to swap out the main and rod bearings in my 75 TR6. I did a plasti gage and the mains are at .003 so just out of spec. Slight scoring on the mains as in the pic, the top coat is wore down to the copper but really not too bad. Started out with changing the thrust washers and well now that the pan is off I fugured I would get the bearings in there, yep the crank is still in, the engine is in the car, the crank journals are really smooth.

I have new king tri metal bearings, steel copper and lead. Standard size

Main Bearing Set, Tri-Metal - GT6, TR250 & TR6 | Wishbone Classics

What is the best way to clean up the bearings before the assembly lube goes on? Is it nesseasry to wash the bearing when they are fresh out of the package?

Any general tips on bearing prep, fire away, what do you guys do?


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