|04-11-2013 06:52 AM|
this should be here friday. well see how much this helps over the megamanual confusion
written by matt cramer (DIY.COM)
|04-10-2013 03:08 PM|
and for most vehicles works just fine... and like you said can get you home when the electrionics let the smoke out..
most will make more power with electronic ign.. but most also can't get that extra power to the ground.. it's more for bragging.. seen enough 350-400hp cars walk away from 700+ hp cars to know you can have all the power in the world it don't mean nothing when the chips are down.. at 3am
|04-10-2013 02:54 PM|
|Dave57210||And yes, I could put my G-Tech on and find out what HP they are making - just haven't gotten any Round TUITs yet.|
|04-10-2013 02:33 PM|
I did have to "massage" the trans tunnel a tad to get the Camaro's 700R4 in and make a custom driveshaft, but the rest just all fell into place.
I have never even been able to find out the actual HP of the original toy tractor engine as it was reportedly about 110 HP under the old, 1960's measurement system - so maybe about 60-70 or so? The new one is a bit difficult to measure as well. How much does a 2.8 with a teeny 4 bbl carb and custom cam and headers make?
By the way - I am in year 9 of the same set of (installed and never touched since) points in my '57 Chev, where they are used to trigger a Jacobs ignition. The Jacobs has a switch to bypass the Jacobs box so I can still drive when the electronics give out on the road. (Had to throw the switch and drive home on points alone about once a year on average now, but the points have never failed - its just the e-box that
keeps crapping out) Of course it is only driven about 200 miles a year at most. Less than a tank of gas a year! I used an MSD box for a couple of years but I never got even 50 miles out of one of them, so went back to the Jacobs!
|04-10-2013 08:12 AM|
2.8 Vs 1.8
re points system failing how many more times than H.E.I.? a condenser fails as often as a module if not more,module costs more,same diagnostic technique.if you can diagnose a condenser then buy an H.E.I.
also consider a 35,000 volt spark Vs a 10,000 volt spark?etc etc,,,
|04-10-2013 01:34 AM|
Forgot to mention - the engine that I went back to a points dist with - a 2.8 V6 out of an 87 Camaro, now installed in my "Henway" - a '65 P1800S.
Pulled engine, left all that mess of wires etc (just cut the wires when pulling the engine) and got an Edelbrock intake for it. Added a 360 CFM Holley and an electric fuel pump with pressure limiter
I'm using a Mallory Dual-points dist
Runs well, cruises well, no hair-pulling/teeth gnashing/screaming obscenities install issues - bolt it all on and go.
Some people like adventure - they enjoy swimming with sharks or jumping out of airplanes. Some folks like the challenge of figuring out which wire goes where or "what does this thing-a-ma-jigger do?" Not me. I don't swim with sharks, I don't try to understand EFI. Too scary!
|04-09-2013 06:12 PM|
I'm not after 100% nuts-out pure horsepressure, nor do I want or need a zillion RPM. I do love the looks of a chrome / polished carb on a polished intake. i hate the look of a million wires going all around stuff, doing who knows what (transmitting to the UFOs from the Delta Quadrant?)
I took the HEI off my engine and installed a points-type system - i understand how points systems work - but HEI is a mystery. If I have an issue with the points I can fix it with a nail file and a matchbook, in the dark. When my old (since wrecked) 78 Chev P/u died one day, I could NOT find the issue. Just no spark. A huge repair bill later, it seems it was the module. (What the heck is a module?)
With a carb, if I want to change the performance curve, I can put in different size jets. (oops went the wrong way - better go to bigger/smaller ones)
With EFI - well - I don't even understand the terminology never mind being able to apply it!
Seems to me that CARS that we CARE about have carbs.
The nameless, soulless "transportation appliance" that goes back & forth to work and is disposed of when it stops working is 100% electronic
|04-09-2013 06:01 PM|
But after 12 years of driving it around DFW, I've decided to tear it down to the frame and start over. A friend of mine gave me a '74 XJ6 Jag rearend so I'm gonna get that installed along with the new engine. While I'm at, I'm gonna fix the things I wish I'd have done differently. You know Hot Rods are never finished. LOL
|04-09-2013 04:50 PM|
But, what you need to do is contact them (Jeff) with what you have bought, either new or used, and let them know what you are intending to do with it and they will let you know what manuals to reference. And definitely don't be scared to read and take notes. Everytime I've sent an email to Jeff at diyautotune he has responded within 1 business day and usually he responds on weekends as well. Also, they have yet to treat any of my questions or me as petty or stupid (even though some of them could've easily been looked at that way) - those guys are great.
Obviously, from reading through this thread, there are two schools of thought on this forum regarding carb vs. EFI. To each his own. Be happy with what you have, otherwise, do something different, BUT BE HAPPY.
X2 on the 'swap meet' carbs. 'Came off a running engine' is what I usually here and as far as I'm concerend that doesn't mean much of anything. They were all new at some point, but not at the 'swap meet'.
GT23 - yikes! That is one nice looking ride. By the way, how well does it ride and handle? Would you consider taking it on a 50-100 mile trek?
|04-09-2013 01:06 PM|
GT23 - almost makes me wish for my 'bucket back. Very nicely done!!
Megasquirt = confusion IMHO, as far as pinning down information. I have several bookmarks on one 'puter and a couple on another just trying to nail down enough 'straight forward' description so I can even begin to wrap my head around it to begin a learning curve. Probably just need to buy a ream of paper and a new ink cartridge and start printing. I do like the new MSD offering for MY car though it is priced pretty high
The EFI naysayers are in some sense correct as far as using a carb for the highest potential for peak horsepower. For daily driving tractability, dead wrong. Cost effectiveness also goes away fairly quickly with 4 plus buck a gallon 93 octane gas, a choke system that sucks gas onto cylinder walls washing away the oil film, fixed jetting, usually for max output and little regard to the daily stop light grind. Then those swap meet carbs - a good part number doesn't always mean a good carb when you factor in worn or bent shafts, incorrect inner pieces that don't work right or even cracked castings.
|04-09-2013 09:49 AM|
|AutoGear||GORGEOUS! I bet having a lower profile in front of you helps some as well. Thanks for sharing|
|04-08-2013 08:43 PM|
|vinniekq2||gt23t thats a beautiful car,thanks for posting pictures|
|04-08-2013 08:14 AM|
Here's photo before the switch to EFI.
Here's a photo after the switch to EFI.
Here's a another angle of the engine.
|04-07-2013 01:52 PM|
|vinniekq2||GT23T post more pictures.from what I see the car looks great|
|04-07-2013 01:23 PM|
Here's my Blown EFI 355 in my T-bucket. I'm in the process of replacing it with a 406 DART block SBC using the blower and EFI, but switching to dual throttle bodies. The bugcatcher it a little touchy and in my opinion lets in too much air too fast for the street. The 355 made 400hp at the rear wheels with dual Edelbrock 600CFM carbs. With the EFI we got it too 490 with 5psi of boost and got better fuel mileage as well.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|