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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-02-2013 10:51 AM
bullheimer i had a pretty bad intake manifold leak i fixed last year. i saw no other leaks back there. i never use the rubber pieces of the oil pan gasket kits just solid silicone. it seemed like that was the main leak. the bolts were not very tight either. but i didn't notice anywhere that the cork seemed to be leaking, i am pretty sure the silicone was where. God i hope so, i have it put back together now except for the drive lines and shifters. thanks for the concerns. if i had changed my oil pan gasket when i bought the one piece (sweet unit). i would probably still be running my old clutch with no problems as it still had alot of disc left.

i only put a small amount of graphite grease on the tip of my trans that goes into the pilot bushing, which i did NOT change. put most of it on the front of the splines. i am hoping that is all it needs. i blew that. the new kit came with a bearing but i did not think it was worth while. what does a burned up pilot bushing sound like? i got a feeling i might be finding out. i swear! seems like i want to cut corners on everything i do. recipe for disaster.
04-01-2013 10:32 PM
S10 Racer
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullheimer View Post
okay so i took the pressure plate to the machine shop he said all the oil looking marks are hot spots from slipping. he thought the oil came from elsewhere than the main seal because the crank was clean in between there and the flywheel, the flywheel is clean too for that matter.

he said it definitely needs to be turned, so, anybody want to share how they lock the flywheel in place so i can turn the bolts? i have a round chisel that fits thru one of the pressure plate mounting holes i plan on using. got to look up the torque specs, 55 to 65. awesome, thought they were like 100! lots of fun ahead trying to put the transfer case and trans both in at the same time. i just love it. NOT. and, today is back to it's usual crappy self.

amazing how few posts there are on clutches. must just be a foregone conclusion that you replace everything. with the amount of work involved, i can see why.
While you have the bellhousing out, look at the rear oil galley plugs and make sure they are not leaking.
04-01-2013 05:10 PM
cal1320 A nick in the gasket at the distributor will send lots of oil down the rear of the engine if the engine has a fair amount of blowby. Ask me how I know. I also changed the rear main on the same engine that had sat unused for almost 10 years. Seal was hard as a rock. I lowered the mains a couple of turns to help the seal come out. Put in the new seal and new pan gasket. New leak now. Front pan seal was too thin , needed the thick one. Maybe I can brake clean it and silicone it. Then I started to over think everything. Did I torque ALL the mains, or did I miss one???? Pull it apart and check. Everything was good. Thick pan seal and all is well.
04-01-2013 04:33 PM
ssmonty Have you had a good look at the oil pressure(sending unit) port next to the distributor? From there it can leak down onto the belhousing for sure(ask me how I know). Not sure if there is enough gap between the bell housing and the block, but there's for sure no gasket.
It sometime seems I can never get that 1/8" pipe fitting tight enough with out it hitting something.
ssmonty
04-01-2013 03:15 PM
bullheimer wow, didn'tknow one existed. i used my one piece gasket. surprised it fits nicely into the Erson gear drive cover. now to figure out how many inch pounds 8 ft lbs is...... then, onto the damned clutch etc


wow that was fast: http://www.unitconversion.org/energy...onversion.html

8ft lbs is 96 inch lbs, 18 is 216. dont ask.
04-01-2013 11:35 AM
MouseFink I have stuck a long hex key or a steel rod through one of the clutch bolt holes and locked it against the engine block. Turn the flywheel with one of the fasteners until the hex key contacts and locks against the block. Then use a 2 ft. cheater pipe on a 1/2" drive ratchet to loosen the flywheel bolts. Or you can use a long 1/2" drive breaker bar but I like the cheater pipe better.

I now have a Ingersol Rand 110V electric impact wrench (up to 200 lb./ ft. torque) which makes removing bolts a breeze and no air compressor is needed. I can completely disassemble an engine in one hour with that impact wrench..
04-01-2013 10:19 AM
bullheimer okay so i took the pressure plate to the machine shop he said all the oil looking marks are hot spots from slipping. he thought the oil came from elsewhere than the main seal because the crank was clean in between there and the flywheel, the flywheel is clean too for that matter.

he said it definitely needs to be turned, so, anybody want to share how they lock the flywheel in place so i can turn the bolts? i have a round chisel that fits thru one of the pressure plate mounting holes i plan on using. got to look up the torque specs, 55 to 65. awesome, thought they were like 100! lots of fun ahead trying to put the transfer case and trans both in at the same time. i just love it. NOT. and, today is back to it's usual crappy self.

amazing how few posts there are on clutches. must just be a foregone conclusion that you replace everything. with the amount of work involved, i can see why.
04-01-2013 10:09 AM
MouseFink I have used a disc sander to resurface a flywheel with less that 50,000 miles on it in order to break the glaze and had good results. You should do that when you replace the clutch disc. If there are grooves or damage to the flywheel surface resulting from a exploding clutch disc, it should be taken to a machine shop and resurfaced.

If you don't pull the engine and fix the rear main seal, this will be a recurring problem and will only get worse. It is rear main seal if oil is getting inside the bell housing and onto the clutch. A leaking oil pan gasket would not leak into the bell housing.
03-31-2013 09:40 PM
bullheimer i plan on blasting it with brake cleaner. just wondering if one ALWAYS has to take flywheel in. it only has about 50K on it. seems very flat, just smooth as glass. also wondering about the need to pull off rear bearing cap. don't want to. does the cleaness of the crank mean anything? wouldn't a leaking rear main seal put oil on it?
03-31-2013 09:34 PM
vinniekq2 The product "Brake Kleens" is really good.Depends on how much oil
03-31-2013 09:19 PM
bullheimer
oil on clutch and fixing sbc

how common is leaking rear mains on a sbc? as common as a leaking chrome chinese oil pan? i have pulled my clutch off and the flywheel and pp look like oil was on them. there is oil all over the pp side of my disc, but none on the flywheel side. i have been looking for oil dripping on the trans side of the rear main and see a couple of drops, but don't know if they dripped off the bottom of the engine and ran there or came from the seal. the crank next to the seal is clean clean clean! but oil was getting in big time. i am sure it is the oil pan gasket because when i moved my truck it left a puddle of oil under it just from backing out of the garage and backing in. a rear main wouldn't leak that bad would it? when i picked up my bell housing off the garage floor there was a puddle of oil under it as well. is there any reason to pull the rear main bearing cap off and look at anything? i wouldn't know what i am looking for anyway. the reason i took it apart is my clutch was starting to slip. the seal is a two piece rubber one.

also

i am replacing the clutch and pp and i am wondering if running 80 grit over the flywheel will be enough. it doesn't seem to be doing anything to the oil looking marks, kinda like oil on water, and definitely isn't leaving any cross hatch pattern, just the little swirlies that orbitals make. i am not really loving the thought of pulling this heavy flywheel off. it only takes a 12" pp and it about an inch thick and those bolts are like 100 ft pounds.

i would appreciate any help tonight and happy Easter!

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