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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-27-2016 09:32 PM
37ford4dr sweet.....my high school buddy bought a 396 camaro on sunday and came home after school on monday to an empty driveway....his dad drove it and then took it back to the dealership and said no way.....so my friend bought a 289 mustang fast back and soon there after had an accident in the rain.
04-26-2016 09:07 AM
TugboatBill
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arns85GT View Post
and clocked 140 mph on a black top county road.
That's why your dad didn't let you get it.
04-25-2016 09:35 AM
Arns85GT
I almost had a 140

Back in 1966 I had a shot at a hard top 140 low miler for $600.

My Dad wouldn't let me get it.

The guy who did get it, changed the fluids, topped the tires and clocked 140 mph on a black top county road.

They were great old cars
04-24-2016 08:39 PM
boothboy Aesthetically I actually like the 120's better than the 140's_________ but I wouldn't turn either one down. Fun day for you.

BB
04-24-2016 08:30 PM
Loose Ctrl Another awesome post and DIY.
04-24-2016 06:20 PM
37ford4dr earlier today British on the Green at Gunston hall the home of George Mason a Virginia statemen of the Revolutionary period



this got my motor running







i got to sit in this....i like it



















heres a home made snap connector tool for our wiring harnesses.





Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveZBMagnette,3245178,3248413
Tool, Snap Connector Tool

It is the only answer... One pair of the tips is tapered. This is intended to stick into the sleeve before you try to insert the bullet. This sizes the sleeve perfectly so that the bullet fits with a nice snug snap rather than a palm endangering shove and grrr with some improvised implement. Of destruction...

Then, when you get the bullets started, the forked jaws are just perfect for squeezing the bullets fully home in the sleeve...

Works a treat!
well i spent some time looking at my old broken and abandoned tools......and look what i came up with. a craftsman handi cut

the one side already has the split jaws to accommodate the gold plastic piece that acts as pad for the cutter blade



spring loaded



my requirements for the connectors on my wiring harness





and the open end already the right size for the bullet ends



and tip to tip the full opening is 1 5/8.....and full closed is 9/16. so that means i am really close and all i have to do is figure out how the paddle end for the one side is going to get attached.. those two holes in the one side are threaded so i dont even need to compromise the tool...(although what made this tool be in the old pile was that the blade end was broken and needed a new blade)

i am thinking a 14 gage piece that gets attached using the two holes with a paddle end





14 gauge


















and after contemplation that these pliers were sitting in a bucket on the front porch for the last 3 yrs i decided to weld the tabs in place





nice and parralel at 1 1/8


opening up the groove, kept filing it until 14 ga wire slipped through easily






and it works






04-23-2016 02:00 PM
37ford4dr pulled the distributor and mocked up the shrink wrap on the rear wiring


well the distributor would not slip out of the clamp joint and as we all know getting the bolts out is a PITA

this is the spot for a snap on 4 way wrench, it gives full access to the bolt with no interference, and off to Jeff for a rebuild






heres the shrink wrap for the open ended connectors








04-21-2016 07:26 PM
37ford4dr JGK thanks, it will be driven....its certainly not perfect but it is a good honest restoration for sure.

turns out massaging the flanges out did the trick

well two steps back....added the grommets


and bent the flanges out to create tension when clamped down





now to the last thing to take apart, degreased the motor with brake clean a puddy knife and tooth brush












and i think that dimple parks the "parked" position

04-21-2016 08:46 AM
boothboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 37ford4dr View Post
I agree I need to see if my total body grommet kit included those...maybe I could bend those flanges down at the end creating some tension, I have to make sure the inside screen still gets sandwiched in place between the two sides, theres not much extra space on the screen. I guess I could use black RTV sealant on the that inlet tube, its not like this going to be taken apart again any time soon
You could just use Sheet Metal screws and Timmerman Nuts. That would not be to far from what the factory would use. Check clearances to your core.

BB
04-21-2016 08:14 AM
JGK95 This build is very amazing! I just have to ask, is this car going to a museum after it's completed?
04-21-2016 08:00 AM
37ford4dr
Quote:
Originally Posted by zuffen View Post
I was looking at the heater core thinking it should have grommets on the inlet and outlet.

That poor joint may improve with some massaging of the mounting flange as it looks like it may be warped.
I agree I need to see if my total body grommet kit included those...maybe I could bend those flanges down at the end creating some tension, I have to make sure the inside screen still gets sandwiched in place between the two sides, theres not much extra space on the screen. I guess I could use black RTV sealant on the that inlet tube, its not like this going to be taken apart again any time soon
04-20-2016 11:57 PM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
My guess would be like balancing a Dirt bike motorcycle wheel,,put the axle on two stands and spin the wheel if it stops in the same place add weight to the TOP ,,repate until it stops in different locationsm

find something for a axle with fan removed from the fan motor.

Well I didn't have my spell check on ,,LOL
04-20-2016 08:52 PM
zuffen I was looking at the heater core thinking it should have grommets on the inlet and outlet.

That poor joint may improve with some massaging of the mounting flange as it looks like it may be warped.
04-20-2016 07:33 PM
37ford4dr i will be sure not to plug this into house hold voltage


so it turns out my buddy at work saw my heater core test hose and we realized his racing bike tubes were even narrower




clean the threads on the heater core box, and let me tell you putting those clamps on is just a killer on the paint









not really happy with the gap, any body use cork as a gasket on this mating surface?



does the total car grommet kit come with the grommets for the heater core? and i need the new id plates for the top..
04-19-2016 02:30 PM
boothboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 37ford4dr View Post
so how do you suppose they would decide where the "light" spot was? just hold the assembly in their hand and power it up and keep moving the weight around until it was nice and smooth?
Truthfully I could never figure that out either. The only logical answer I could come up with is that somewhere someone accidently replaced the standard 12v car battery with a 120v battery, jumped into the car turned on the heater, and at a little above 20000 rpm the force of the air exiting the ducts either blew the windshield out of the car or the shoes and sox off the feet of the driver. Then the squirrel cage launched through the dash and roof of the car and through the floor of the upstairs neighbors apt. and killed his cat. The fix? Little weights.

Makes sense to me.

BB ( master of the run on sentance)
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