|04-08-2013 02:24 PM|
Yes, that is exactly what I remember and now that I see the name I remember that also. What you said makes sense. The 1965 383 Mopar with a 4 barrel carb is rated at 330 hp (at least from what I found on the net) thats plenty actually for such a light truck really. I may gain a few horses with headers, dont need to make a wheelie machine or have something that I cant keep rear tires on,,,,,,yet.
|04-08-2013 01:45 PM|
I wouldn't change the camshaft until I knew for sure what the actual static compression ratio of the motor is. I know fellows have changed cams in motors for decades without knowing anything about the inside of their motor, but that doesn't mean they did it right!!!!!
Static compression ratio should be matched to the intake closing point of the camshaft in order to generate the proper cylinder pressure for the fuel you're using. It's called Dynamic Compression Ratio and if you're going to maximize your cam change, you need to figure it all out first.
As far as an intake manifold, with a stock cam I'd retain the stock intake manifold, unless you just want to lighten your wallet and take a few pounds off the front of the truck. AGAIN, the Chrysler engineers figured the exact size and length of the intake runners on the stock piece to provide the best overall performance. Until you tear into the motor and change everything, I would leave the stock piece on there. A 600/650 carb will be all you need.
|04-08-2013 10:48 AM|
Got it. Keep the great tips comin! I thought some more over the weekend about this and originally I was going to put a little bit bigger cam in the Mopar but then again, not really looking to go totally nuts. So, in everybody's opinion, would there be a need for a super coil electronic ignition or just go with a straight conversion over from points to electronic? That may have sounded really contradictory but I dont have alot of experience with converting over from points. I remember a really simple kit that you could buy back in the 80's that you installed in place of the point setup inside the distributor.
Also, I plan on getting an aluminum intake for it also. With a stock cam, what kind of aluminum 4 barrel intake and what size carburator would you guys suggest?
|04-07-2013 06:46 AM|
Use a ford mid 90's electric fan from a t-bird or taurus.
if your are don't a disk swap then don't forget to also get the 5 lug axles. They also bolt right in into the 67 housing.
You will also need a set 5 lug wheels.
|04-06-2013 09:06 AM|
Mopar into a chevy eh well I suppose,,, there is an old saying it goes "if the shoe fits wear it"
FWIW when I did my first V8 swap from the original straight 6 250 in my C10 I used the single core rad that was in the truck up until I went to the current 383 (stroker not mopar). I had a fairly hot 350 in there for a while and never had an overheating issue without a shroud and no aux fan either. The orignal single core rads have a huge surface area at least this was the case n the 72's not sure of the 67's capacity or what type rad you have now. Dont forget the trans cooler.
The flexalite black magic fan is what I run now with a some back yard brackets, using a flexalite variable speed soft start controller which is great and a tripple core rad from a 69, no fan on the motor, a manual override can be connected to these controllers to bring the fan on through a toggle switch, cool as a cucumber
|04-05-2013 08:55 PM|
|techinspector1||I like to use the mechanical system from the vehicle that's supplying the motor. Get the motor/trans in place, then adapt all the cooling system from the Mopar. You may have to do some cutting on the core support to adapt the radiator, maybe not. Look at the Mopar before you pull the motor and measure and record the distance from the fan to the core so you can position the radiator exactly the same distance from the fan and you will have everything in place, including the shroud. The motor will cool exactly like it did when it was in the Mopar sheetmetal. Chrysler Corp paid its engineers top dollar to design and build a cooling system for that 383 that would do the job under many varying conditions. Take advantage of the free engineering. That's my best advice.|
|04-05-2013 02:44 PM|
here you go.. cheap easy and fits stock shroud..
and from moparparts.com the fan is a woop'n 59.00
it's the famous jeep grand cheroke fan install for 67-72 trucks
you'll thank me later..
I got the fan it was 59+12 shipping and a fan controller from jegs or summit.. have to go look.. it was like 40-50 bucks..
another cheap electric fan build! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
The switch, relay, and harness i used was a jegs kit, part number 555-10560 $45.99
fans P/N: CBG4F250
|04-05-2013 02:18 PM|
Definitely going with headers and I believe flowmasters. I will take a look at the link.
|04-05-2013 02:16 PM|
|Karcrazy||Or, do I dump the original fan assembly and put a regular pulley on the waterpump. Then go with a totally electric fan setup? Any experience with those? Or maybe then you are relying on the fan thermostat too much to keep things cool. Our Chevy Avalanche has a setup like that and it works really well, plus gives your a tad bit better gas mileage.|
|04-05-2013 09:20 AM|
Having the rad and fan won't hurt. You'll likely need a custom fan shroud after you get it in. If you're going headers or need mount ideas then heres a link.
Schumacher Creative Services
I've used their headers. Fit like a glove, starter access is excellent.
|04-05-2013 07:24 AM|
Excellent advice! I actually was going to start looking up how to set an engine and tranny when customizing things. The pickup has a fuel tank that is in the cab right now so that is coming out and Ill put a fuel tank under the bed. I think I am going to go with an electric fuel pump on this. When I pull the Mopar out in the next month or two, I am going to replace the points/coil setup and put in electronic too. Cant believe that I wanted to stick with points when I put it back in after rebuilding it.
So, I want to have the radiator im going to use and fan in place too when I measure things up right? I believe that I am going to get one of those aluminum super cool radiators to make sure nothing gets hot.
|04-04-2013 07:50 PM|
Just a couple of thoughts from an old guy who has been there, done that.
Get a contractor's plumb bob and some chalk that will write on your concrete surface you'll be working on. That's how to do all the measurements, drop the plumb bob from point to point, make a mark on the concrete and measure with a rule of T-square. Get yourself an angle finder and a couple of good levels, a short one and a long one.
Chock the truck up at ride height. Take the front wheels/tires off and put jackstands under the frame at the height the truck will be at when finished. Put the motor in with the intake manifold in place. Put the level on the carb pad of the manifold and level it front to rear and side to side. The motor and trans will be installed at a down angle when you do this, usually 2-3 degrees.
You can move the motor front to rear as far as you want to either way to make things fit. You can also move it side to side either way as far as you need to, so long as you keep the crankshaft centerline perpendicular to the rear axle centerline and watch for transmission clearance at the floorpan tunnel. Don't be afraid to axe some sheetmetal out of the way to make it fit. You can use scraps and weld it back together later. This is particularly true of headers. NOTHING should get in the way of your headers. Axe out anything that is in the way. Never hack up the headers.
Pay attention to service items like mechanical fuel pumps, oil filters, etc. Don't box them in so that you can't get to them to change them later.
|04-04-2013 04:40 PM|
the 71-2 disc set up is different than the 73-87
all bolt in..
all are 5 on 5 lug pattern.
|04-04-2013 03:42 PM|
|gearheadslife||here is what you'll need for the swaybar..|
|04-04-2013 03:34 PM|
go to the junkyard 1973-87 c-10 front end with engine crossmember bolt in..
get it all crossmember and the whole works.. (a arms,spindles,etc..)
then just change your outer tie rods for the 73-87 ones and it bolts in..
the 73-87 came with two different thickness rotors 1" standard 1 1/4" heavy duty.. keep that in mind when ordering rotors and clappers..
also the 73-87 front sway bar is a bolt in.. you just need to get the frame brackets when you get the bar..
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