|04-06-2013 11:03 AM|
Bobaloo, I'm danged sure hot now after taking 20 minutes to finally get it cranked and when I went to adjust the idle - - - ?guess? what? it can't be adjusted after "they" welded a piece and pull tied it to the throttle rod.
Replacing the carb is becoming more evident to me every day. Now to decide which carb???????
|04-06-2013 10:52 AM|
|04-06-2013 05:44 AM|
That will help me a lot, thanks
So the choke gets it's heat from the intake and not the exhaust manifold? hmmmmmm????
|04-05-2013 08:49 PM|
Never priced them, but the rebuild kits are cheap and simple so buying a new one is a bit of a waste unless the housing on yours is cracked. Here's the guide I used to do it:
The heat choke connects to two lines that run into the block under a small panel in the intake on the passenger side of the carb. Those heat tubes feed into the choke on the passenger side of the carb.
You should be able to find replacement heat lines off any sbf in the local U-Pull-It; worse-case you could pull one to use as a template to bend your own.
|04-05-2013 08:30 PM|
|wretched ratchet||Thanks, like I said above, I know nothing and it's all new to me. I found a brand new Autolite 2100 with a heat choke for $160. It should bolt right up and all I would have to get would be a heat tube. I think I've found the manifold heat source but I'm not sure????|
|04-05-2013 08:14 PM|
Nothing wrong with the Autolite; it's one of the simplest carbs to rebuild. I rebuilt mine having never touched a carb before. They're desired by some off-road guys because they can handle being off-camber without fuel starving.
The pitfall with the 289/302 (from what I read on 'Stang forums) is that alot of guys over cam and over carb them.
|04-05-2013 07:38 PM|
|wretched ratchet||It's a 289 with a "very" mild cam and a cheap Autolite 2 bbl. I'm really starting to consider putting a double pumper on it. I just don't know "anything" about Ford engines and I don't want to change the intake either so I'll probably run the 2bbl for a while at least.|
|04-05-2013 07:27 PM|
Love the Fairlane OP. What size is the motor?
|04-05-2013 06:31 PM|
Hey Friend, sure good to see you posting here
Cole, I'm finally starting to have fun with it, even tho there's a lot to straighten up. Found out that there was an easy fix for the drain plug if it happens to be stripped out and I've almost figured out how to fabricate some hardware so that the manual choke works (without the pull ties and bailing wire)
How's that Grandbaby doin'? Have you spoiled her stinky rotten yet? Don't lie I know you have.
|04-05-2013 05:51 PM|
Heck Em, if it turns out to much for ya ship that bad boy down here to me looks like a fine toy.
|04-05-2013 02:49 PM|
|04-05-2013 02:47 PM|
|04-05-2013 02:36 PM|
Maybe it just isn't thick enough Em. Try an old piece of tire.
|04-05-2013 02:10 PM|
When my Buddy and I unloaded the Fairlane at my house we noticed an oil leak on the trailer floor. I was just hoping that it was pan related and haven't tried to locate it until today. I added a quart of oil and then got down to see if I could see where the possible leak was coming from. Well, low and behold it was leaking as fast as I put it in and when I first saw where it was coming from I started laughing out loud and then I got pissed. I can't imagine anyone doing these "bandaid and pull ties and bailing wire fixes" like I'm running across on this Ride. Anyhow here are the pics and it looks like I might have lucked out and ?possibly? all it needs is to be cleaned up and a "PROPER" washer put in place of that 2" in diameter rubber thingie. I may frame that when I get it off. Even if I have to rethread and step up in size or put in a helicoil, I'm happy with the location of the leak.
Shouldn't that fly wheel have a cover over the bottom? Probably had to remove the cover to allow for the #$%@#@#& lowrider crap.
"SOME DAYS THERE JUST ISN'T A LARGE ENUFF SUPPLY OF CURSE WORDS TO FIT MY NEEDS!"
|04-01-2013 08:16 PM|
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