|04-17-2013 10:32 AM|
Excellent, glad to hear that you found a solution.
Best of Luck
|04-16-2013 10:14 PM|
|Lizer||What I have ended up doing is making channels with tape about 1/8" tall along the 'high spots' on the mounting edge of the scoop, then poured fiberglass resin in there. Let it set up overnight and the next day the tape peeled right off. Took my long board with 80 grit and sanded it down flat again and remaining gaps are gone. Worked really well.|
|04-15-2013 02:54 PM|
|33Willys77||I mounted a scoop once with aluminum angle from the local hardware store. I bent it to fit the shape of the scoop, polished it, and screwed it to the hood where the braces were under the hood. This way, you could not see fasteners. I drilled and countersunk the screws that screwed into the scoop with stainless screws. No gaps and looked very nice on a black car with all the other polished stainless trim.|
|04-15-2013 01:10 PM|
Good I'm glad that you feel that way, some of those small nigglly (no idea how to spell niggly but you get what I mean) things can bother more than they are worth, and trying to repair them so they don't come back and haunt you can be a real PITA.
|04-15-2013 12:56 PM|
|sedanbob||No problem Ray. Wouldn't have been my first choice either, but definitely better than regular filler.|
|04-15-2013 09:22 AM|
Sorry Bob, I hate to disagree with you but, the fiberglass stuff out of the can I wouldn't use on the scoop that the OP is talking about. The reason is that if your working with this product over a small area and it's being applied on area that is going to have a lot of vibration...it's just not going to hold for very long. It's fine for putting a coat over top of ground down welds or any place that there is metal holding it in place.
Now...to try and offer a solution...I hate these dilemma's because there are only 2 ways that I can think of to repair this part and have it hold...and I hate doing either of them.
1) Rough up the sides of your scoop, use your mat glass and resin, build up the side a bit so that you can build up the bottom and then cut it to fit your hood. If it could be built up from underneath as well as on the sides, all the better.
2) Use a body panel adhesive or even an SMC adhesive to build up the bottom...I use 3M's 8116 or 8115 a lot, they stick to anything and hold real well, they make faster products with respect to dry time. They are costly, but work and work well. Apply a little adhesive on the sides as well and shape it into the scoop, it feathers quite well. That way you will have the support from the sides as well as the surface that your trying to enlarge.
I hope this helps.
|04-14-2013 06:46 PM|
|sedanbob||It's not real easy to work with, but basically all you have to do is shove some into that gap and smooth it over with a putty knife. After it sets up, you can sand it, and if necessary, use regular body filler to fix any imperfections. Look for the short strand variety, it will be a little easier (not much, but a little).|
|04-14-2013 12:00 AM|
|Lizer||I don't find my fiberglass filler very easy to work. It didn't strike me as something that would have been good for such a small area like that.|
|04-13-2013 08:01 PM|
2X what Bob said, using a fiberglass reinforced filler makes a lot more sense.
|04-13-2013 07:48 PM|
|sedanbob||If you cover the hood with aluminum foil, then apply a coat or two of wax to the foil, you can set the scoop on top, then work some resin and some shreds of mat into the gap where it's too high. You are using the hood as the bottom of your 'mold'. When the resin sets up, pull the scoop off the hood, then sand the edges smooth, being careful not to sand the surface where it will join the hood. The foil keeps it from bonding to the hood. This would be a place where you could use some of the short-strand body filler ('kitty hair'). Regular body filler would chip off the edge.|
|04-13-2013 06:49 PM|
I can't see exactly where you are working but usually something like that would be done on the inside. Sand the surface where it is low on the inside. Put some tape on the outside as a "mould" to hold the resin from going all over the place. Apply some resin, put small pieces of mat there pushing it into the resin you brushed on with the brush and apply a little more resin and put another piece doing the same to push the air out of the matt or cloth what ever you are using. Let it go up much higher than you need and after it cures you remove the tape and sand the edge down to where you need it.
|04-13-2013 06:44 PM|
I shaved it tonight and now it's much better. There are two spots....the very front points on the sides and the very rear corner...where the fiberglass is just too high and if I were to sand it so it's even I'd be sanding off a lot...prob more than 1/8". I bet I could slide a paint stick under these two areas.
How I could I build these parts of the scoop 'down?' I have polyester resin that you'd use with glass cloth. I'm trying to figure out how I could goo that on these areas, maybe gooing more on after it sets to build where I need it, then sanding to form.
|04-09-2013 09:29 PM|
|tech69||that's only if Plan A doesn't work.|
|04-09-2013 09:24 PM|
|04-09-2013 09:08 PM|
do whatever you can to find where it needs to be shaved and use a long block and 80-180. I'm doing something like that on my Mustang for the fender/quarter extensions. I walk up to the car and hold it in place where it's supposed to be, mark where it's touching and not allowing other places to touch, run to the vise which has my file in it, file for a couple minutes, and then run back to the car and re-check fit. The fender extension was so bad I questioned whether or not it was even for a 65, but after some filing and hitting it with a rubber mallet here and there it fits perfect.
Emphasis on using a block.
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