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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-08-2013 02:31 AM
Green95LX Well my buddy helped me some and this is what we have.
I mixed at 4:1 just like the directions said, using a mixing cup. Then i added reducer to taste until it sprayed well. Maybe i'm crazy but it doesn't seem like we have hardly used any of the activator. It's a QT of activator so it should do 4 QTs of product. We used mostly all of a QT of primer. I guess i just expected it would look like a approximately a quarter of the activator missing from the can.

Attachment 73841

Attachment 73842
04-22-2013 06:02 PM
69 widetrack Then you will be fine with 220 grit's the older technology single stage lacquer primer that you may have had trouble with...2K primer, OK.

04-22-2013 05:56 PM
Green95LX it's summit's 2k urethane primer
04-22-2013 05:49 PM
69 widetrack What brand of Urethane primer and is it a 2 part primer? Two medium wet coats of 2K Urethane Primer should cover 220 grit scratches on on gel coat...make sure your first coat of Urethane flashes real well, that way your going to have most off your 220 sand scratches exposed and will cover on your second coat...for sure.

04-22-2013 05:16 PM
Green95LX Ok, one more thing. What grit sanding scratches can i expect urethane primer to fill? 320? 220?
04-22-2013 06:35 AM
69 widetrack Gel coat is pretty tough stuff...rough it up as best you can, use the red scotch brite in areas that paper is hard to use and prime it. The colored gel coat is going to sand chaulky, prime let it set up prep and paint. If it was paint that was faded, it's a totally different animal than gel coat.
04-22-2013 05:20 AM
Green95LX it is original gel coat, it's just sun faded and rough
04-21-2013 04:59 PM
69 widetrack The proper way to repaint this would be to take the existing oxidized paint off, to strip it. Often, when paint has deteriorated from oxidization the existing paint powders off quite easily. Try to take off as much paint as you can, leaving the original gel coat and prime over top of that...this way your substrate will be uniform and have the adhesion qualities your looking for.

Hope this helps.

04-21-2013 04:43 PM
Green95LX the only question i have to that is, alot of the surface well mostly all of it isn't shiny any more from oxidation? sun fading.
04-21-2013 01:20 PM
69 widetrack Red scotch brite will work for scuffing gel-coat, just make sure that you really go over the surfaces well, No shiny spots and you'll be fine.

04-21-2013 12:17 PM
Green95LX Is red scotch brite pad enough to scuff gel coat, before shooting the primer? If not, what should i use to sand. It's basically all complex curves.

04-15-2013 09:24 PM
69 widetrack You could sand the top with 320 if your going to prime the entire top. Finish sanding in 400 after the Primer has cured. It's a good idea to repair all cracks before you prime, hopefully the one in the footwell is the last one, if not, the use of guide coat over the Primer will let you know, you could spot repair any other cracks as you see fit. Paint will actually accentuate any it's a good idea to fill ever and repair everything you can before paint.

Use a poly coated masking paper available at any auto body supply store. Don't use cheap Home Depot masking tape, get proper automotive tape. It'll save you time, money and aggravation in the long run.

04-15-2013 08:52 PM
Green95LX I had planned on spraying at least a coat of primer all over the whole hood and deck. I should sand everything like with 400 or 600, then primer? I believe there is at least another crack but it is in the footwell. I wasn't sure if it would cause an issue later. Also, what's good to mask off the craft with?
04-15-2013 07:38 PM
69 widetrack It may not be a bad idea to rough up the gel-coat over the whole top surface and apply two coats of 2K over the whole top surface. When that has cured, use some guide coat on the cured primer before you sand. If there are any cracks in the gel-coat that you missed the guide coat will help you find them. If all is Okay, go ahead and apply the paint.

04-15-2013 06:55 PM
Green95LX Believe me there's plenty of flaws, The biggest issue i had was sanding and buffing too much and it caused "holograms" like where you can see the different layers, kinda like the rings in a tree. It looks great on the internet in pictures and pretty good in person unless you look closer. Honestly it's a watercraft, the bottom isn't as visible and is going to get beat up some so i've accepted it. I think i would try a different product next time around for the bottom. Now, the deck and hood are a lot more visible so i'm trying to cover my bases.
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