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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-26-2013 05:13 PM
weekend warrior First of all I want to thank everyone for their help. It finally started the ground wire was the issue after looking at carefully it was melted right at the connection. It also cause the neutral switch to go bad. I ran a new ground wire and bypass the neutral switch and it started right up. Thanks again to everyone
04-26-2013 03:54 PM
EOD Guy As stated eariler your main ground cable should go directly from the neg battery post to the engine block, if it isn't you need to fix it so that it is. There should be a smaller wire 8 to 10 gauge, that goes from the neg post to the fender, two woven bare straps that go from the intake manifold to the rear fire wall, and a 8-10 gauge wire that goes from the passenger fender, by the heater box, to the frame.

it sounds like you have the posts on your starter crossed up some how. The pos battery cable should hook directly to the large stud on the starter solenoid, and a bare woven strap goes from the other stud on the solenoid to the starter motor....... that woven strap is not a ground, it is what supplies the voltage to the starter motor when the solenoid engages.

the two smaller wire...... the purple wire goes to the "S" terminal and supplies the solenoid pwr to engage etc..... The other wire Yell or off wht, goes to the pos post on the coil and provides a full 12 volts to the coil to aid in starting

If you reverse the two smaller wires when you turn the key to start you are sending a full 12 volts to the coil and nothing to engage the starter, since the other side of the coil is connected to a ground, after the windings get a full charge and the dizzy isn't spinning because the car won't start, there isn't anywhere for the coil to dump etc...... and could cause wierd things to happen etc.....

verify that you have the wires routed correctly.
04-26-2013 12:56 PM
vicrod
grounds

x2 on the bad ground cable.
If your ground cable has an additional smaller #10 wire that connects from the battery to the chassis that wire will attempt to carry the power through the chassis and ground strap on the engine. That could be causing the wacky stuff you are seeing.
Also, check the ground straps from the body to the frame.

vicrod
04-26-2013 04:18 AM
weekend warrior I got a power probe that tells me how much voltage I got. The strap that's screwed on the fire wall and then connects to the block. I just bought a remote starter so ill try that. It's just weird that when I turn that ignition switch to start position I lose power. To get it back I have to disconnect the battery and connect back.
04-26-2013 03:55 AM
EOD Guy I'm not understanding your last post...... My ground strap gets voltage.

What are you calling a ground strap?
How are you determining that it's getting voltage?

3rd test:
Take the jumper wire you hooked to the "S" terminal on the solenoid (and hooked to the purple wire at the NSS) and touch it to the pos post of the battery, the starter should spin.

If it doesn't spin, you have a bad ground cable (should be run from the neg post on the battery to the engine block) or

a bad pos cable (should be run from the pos post on the battery to the large stud on the starter solenoid)
04-25-2013 10:18 PM
weekend warrior When I turn the key to start my ground strap have battery voltage
04-25-2013 10:13 PM
weekend warrior The battery is new so is the starter and the ignition switch. I'm a weekend warrior but I did check the basics
04-25-2013 09:42 PM
vicrod
easy first

"All my grounds get power" What does that mean?
Start with the easy stuff.
Is the battery in good condition and fully charged?
Are the ground cable and hot cable from the battery to the engine in good condition and the connections are clean? Remove, clean and reconnect.
Also, even though a cable looks ok it could still be the problem. Happens all the time.

vicrod
04-25-2013 07:57 PM
weekend warrior Still no luck I ran a wire from the solenoid to the ignition switch purple and still no luck
04-25-2013 08:19 AM
weekend warrior Thanks ill try that today
04-25-2013 03:52 AM
EOD Guy Your fusable link, I don't know for sure, should be located on the driver's side, radiator support, factory splice. Find your external regulator and the horn relay. There should be a large red wire coming from the battery side, over to the factory splice, at the splice it splits into the horn relay feed via a short piece of orange wire (slightly smaller than the red wire) that orange wire is the fusable link.
04-24-2013 10:32 PM
weekend warrior That's the funny part when I turn the key all the way I loose my headlights then I have to remove the battery cable then everything works again til I turn the key. Any way you would know we're the fusible like would be
04-24-2013 10:02 PM
richard stewart 3rd Hi
Do you have headlights? If so check the fusible links.
Rich
04-24-2013 07:15 PM
weekend warrior Try the two purples and nothing just checked the purple wire to the ignition switch and my power probe shows ground not power
04-24-2013 04:39 PM
EOD Guy Did you check the fuse?

Here's what I'd do........

Find the Netural Safety Switch, it should be located at the bottom end of the steering column, should have a Blu/green, green and two purple wires coming out of it. The green ones are for your backup lamp and the purple ones are the NSS. Put a jumper between the two purple wires and see if it turns over if it does it's the NSS. If it doesn't turn over check to see if you have 12 volts on the purple wire leading to the ing switch, if you don't have 12 volts, it might the ing switch or the wire powering the ing switch (check the fuse)

Test 2:
Make sure the car is in park and the emer brake is on, take a screwdriver and be very careful, touch it to the large stud on the starter (The one that the battery cable is hooked to) and the "S" terminal on the starter (should be a purple wire hooked to it).

If the engine turns over, it's not the starter. Then use a multimeter and check for continuity between the "S" terminal end of the wire and Netural safety switch. if no continuity......... check the firewall bulkhead connector for corrosion etc...... if that doesn't fix it, run a new, temp jumper wire from the "S" terminal on the starter to the eng (not the switch side) side of the NSS. If it works with the temp wire you need to replace the purple wire from the "S" terminal on the starter to the NSS.
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