|04-29-2013 09:22 PM|
|Lizer||I've never associated Eastwood's paint products with 'top notch'...|
|04-29-2013 09:35 AM|
|Ed M.||I have a 1979 chev. 4x4 that I'm playing with, just want to make it a clean street toy for a truck. Plans are to chop the top, lower it some, play with the paint some and see what happens. Thanks for the input.|
|04-29-2013 06:22 AM|
If this car has any value??? I would blow the stuff off and leave in the PPG epoxy, 99% of all restoration shops leave the frame and on some cars the engine compartment in epoxy, because it is much more chemical resistant, more chip proof and just plain stronger.
Why fight it and go backwards, along with wasting your money? Just my 2 cents worth.
|04-29-2013 05:49 AM|
|Ed M.||Thanks for the reply. I take it from all who has used this material before that a primer really should not be used with this material as a base. I have always used this epoxy primer under everything that I have sprayed and have never had any trouble in 25+ years. I sure that Eastwoods material is a top notch material and will probably try this at some later date on another project. But for now I think that I'll just peal the remaining material off and instead of having everything sandblasted again, just use chassis saver that I know will hold over the primer that is already on these parts. Live and learn. I'm going to contact Eastwood's rep just to see what he has to say on this anyway. Again, thank to everyone who has replied to my problem that I have had with this and good luck with all of your projects.|
|04-28-2013 10:24 PM|
|f/bird||I've used this same paint "chassis black "on the frame of an old 52 Ford where a/freeze ,oil and gas had leaked on it and even sat in a groove that held the liquids and it stayed on after soaking the liquids up with a rag. I more or less cleaned the area and painted it w/out the epoxy primer. Just thought I'd pass that on !|
|04-28-2013 07:54 PM|
Just came from the garage a little earlier , trying to clean-up a little. While I was trying to organize some items, I rubbed up against the rad support that I had re-painted again that the paint had come off the first time. I didn't think that I had rubbed up against it with what I was moving hard enough to scratch any of the paint off, so the temptation off the air test came back. And again, the paint just blew off as did the first time. I also looked at the inner fender-wells that I had sprayed also, and the same thing.( These were new inner fenders) Cannot figure this one out. The epoxy primer was still on the pieces. I had left a good 10 plus hours before I painted these parts. I've been using the same epoxy primer for many years and had never had this problem. I guess time to call Eastwood again.
|04-28-2013 04:56 PM|
|Ed M.||Just came from the garage, doing a little cleaning. I moved some parts around, and scraped a little against the rad support an noticed the paint came off. I didn't think that this should of happened with the light movement that I made. Just for the temptation of wondering, I grabbed the air hose and hit the support with air. Off comes the paint again. The primer still in-tack. This second time I painted this part I let the epoxy primer dry for a good 10 plus hours. Puzzled. In all the years that I've been using this primer, this is the only time that I've ever had this happen. Back to Eastwood for their input.|
|04-17-2013 10:30 AM|
|04-17-2013 07:43 AM|
I have used the Eastwood Chassis Black Satin on the whole underneath my car. I also use to spray all the components on my chassis and other parts like brackets.
About etching primer............my understanding is that is to be used over bare metal only. That way it can "etch" the metal for a topcoat.
I have found that if you "etch" any bare metal with a good sanding and apply a coat of good primer you are good to go.
|04-17-2013 06:29 AM|
|Ed M.||Sprayed the items yesterday. came out nice ,a little more shine than the 85 percent that I was expecting from what I wanted. In a couple of days I'll give it the air blow test, see what happens. Thanks for all the input that everyone had given me on this. There's something new learned everyday in painting.|
|04-16-2013 10:08 PM|
|04-16-2013 09:46 AM|
So, he's basically telling you exactly what I told you in one of my previous posts. Well, let it set up, I don't understand why you would need to scuff Epoxy but give it a try...and let us know what happens.
Best of Luck Ed
|04-16-2013 09:42 AM|
As they say, if all else fails, read the instructions. But as luck has it, a Eastwood rep just call me back and said that epoxy primer is acceptable base for their chassis black paints. Just have to leave enough dry time for the solvents to flask out of the primer, 2 or 3 days if possible , then scuff and primer. Well, I left about 10 hrs. from the time I applied the primer to the paint time. See what happens in a few days. Will update .
I wanted to use something that was more resistant to under the hood chemicals, fluids. Ed
|04-16-2013 08:51 AM|
Mine too, if i'm not familiar with a product I usually check it out before I offer advice, but, Anything should stick to Epoxy if it's flashed properly right...wrong...my bad as well for not following through. Why not just put a regular catalyzed black on, that way you know it's going to stick.
|04-16-2013 05:28 AM|
well since I already applied the epoxy primer last night, I'll take a chance and scuff the items good,spray a thin sealer coat of NCP 271 primer to cover the epoxy, then go with the chassis black. Maybe this will work.Don't know.
Just read in Eastwoods catalog that the "ultimate finish is easily achieved when you apply Eastwood's Epoxy Primer under the Ceramic Chassis Black", but there is no statement of any kind about the Extreme Chassis Black and epoxy primers. They reference Epoxy Primer for their 2K Chassis black, but nothing for their Original or Extreme black's. My error in not reading closer.
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