|05-05-2013 06:14 PM|
You will enjoy it if use it I am sure.
Yes it does have a pattern spray nozzle.
|05-05-2013 09:09 AM|
Brian - I've seen that acetylene trick used, but have never tried it - remember with some of us being overly mature, CRS goes hand in hand, so had forgotten.
|05-05-2013 09:09 AM|
|geezer69||my buddy uses primer for glide coat. just uses dark over light or the other way around. its cheap and works fine. ive helped him many times and his paint jobs are awesome ! i sure as heck dont know much but he does so i thought id mention it here.|
|05-05-2013 09:02 AM|
|Lizer||Does the SEM guidecoat spray in a fan pattern?|
|05-05-2013 08:13 AM|
I am with you, I LOATH big corporations and chains believe me, I VERY rarely go into any chain when I have a local store or restaurant to give my money to.
But this 3m guide coat is SOOOOOOOO good, it is SOOOOO much better than spray paint you can't believe it. It covers EVERY square inch you want it, with a very fine dust going in very small scratches, it is well worth the money if you ask me.
There are alternatives, just yesterday at a swap meet I was having a long chat with one of my mentors from 35 years ago, one of my very valued mentors (and I tell him every time I see him) and he told me how he had begun to use soot from the torch for guide coat! He fires it up with just the acy on low and waves the torch on the panel putting soot all over it. He then wipes it all over with a rag and it goes in all the scratches and it's his guide coat. He told me how he found it by mistake after he welded a missed crack and then while sanding the area WHAM there were all the scratches. Never done it but it may be an alternative to the 3M stuff.
I am stubborn as heck when it comes to giving money to someone I don't like, I really respect your opinion on not giving money to 3m, believe me I do, but damn it if it's going to make my job easier and better sometimes I will just bite my lip and do it.
|05-05-2013 07:55 AM|
|Irelands child||Professionally, I would use the dry stuff, but being an amateur, use SEM guide coat, and purchased really cheap at a swap meet from a guy that always has a bunch. I dislike giving 3m any more of my hard earned dollars then necessary - even for their $$$ tape which doesn't seem as good as it was.|
|05-05-2013 07:38 AM|
It lasts a long long time, get some dry you will never go back to spray paint again.
|05-05-2013 06:59 AM|
|05-04-2013 08:25 PM|
|Lizer||I've been spraying SPI for the last 3 years, and it's the only thing I've ever sprayed (besides the Slick Sand). The Slick Sand is already blocked nearly off with 220. I think it sands like butter once I break through the crust with 120. Your suggestion isn't really any different than what's already been talked about here or what I've discussed with Barry, and it's what I'll be doing. Two coats of epoxy, wet sand to 600. I get little to no peel when I spray the epoxy so it will be easy sanding smooth. This is actually more convenient for me because I can just shoot the panels outside and if I get trash on them it will be sanded out.|
|05-04-2013 08:26 AM|
something else that poly primer does well is chip real easy...so be extra sure theres none at the edges like your jambs and wheel openings...
Since your not a pro I'll asume that your doing this for fun and enjoyment not to mention a love of old cars..Theres nothing fun about blocking so why make it harder than it needs to be you can block that off of there in no time and make things much more enjoyable using SPI and it'll last....
|05-04-2013 07:47 AM|
|Lizer||I'm a scientist, not a professional body man. And I've already been through 8 years of school.|
|05-04-2013 07:41 AM|
Poly primers(spray bondo) really just make more work for you when you think about. lets say you have some waves and you want them filled so you spray the whole panel ,you have to block off everything else what a waste of time and material, mosy guys start off doing it then give up and just sand untill its straight ,leaving a massive amount of primer still on that panel because it sands so hard...You guys that are using and actually like these poly primers are still young and probably NEED to work of all that extra testosterone But us older bulls ,we like to make life EZer and walk down that hill and do'em ALL...
I just blocked out a hood I sprayed with two coats of epoxy and guide coated ,using 180 (dry) 20 min then I breezed over that (2min) with 320 dry just to knock down the roughness of the 180 reprimed 2 coats of epoxy and its ready for 400 wet,then a quick 600...This car HAS to be perfect its going SPI black and if it takes an hour to finish block ,I probably have a hang over....Using a poly primer makes absolutly no sence to me at all. I do all my filling BEFORE primer with poly putty like EZ sand...BTW, when we used that poly primer we sanded it with 80 grit I cant even imagine sanding it with anything finer..
|05-03-2013 04:56 PM|
What I'm going to end up doing is final block with 220 as I've done, two coats epoxy, then wet sand with 600. I won't be able to put paint on wet on wet.
|05-03-2013 10:17 AM|
|33Willys77||If this is just a base primer you are trying to sand, why go with such a fine grit? For a full / big job - do your bodywork, ruff it in down to 80, prime it, block it straight with 80, prime it, block once more with 180, final prime and sand it with 400. Then seal it and paint (wet on wet).|
|05-03-2013 05:27 AM|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|