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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-03-2013 05:59 PM
65ELCMO A gx240 is 8 hp.
The clutch will not do the job. Pilot valve and throttle control is what you need. As the others have said about welding I agree. Dump it ans start over.
Used Gx 240 with starter missing maybe $75. Starter is $75/100 Honda parts are expensive. That's how they make there money. Sell engines fairly cheep and get you on parts.
05-03-2013 05:26 PM
Old Fool I doubt it is an asme rated tank, but all the same it should have id on it somewhere. Now that is has been welded on it is unsafe to use unless recertified. It appears the unloader control is located off a tee where the inlet line goes into the tank( it appears to have a red manual knob) . Looking at the whole package I wouldnt start it up, I would strip it out, sell the gas motor and compressor and cut the tank up so no one gets injured or killed using it in the future.
05-03-2013 02:38 PM
67Elcamino
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
On both my twin tank construction compressors the electric motor and the gasoline engines run all the time, the unloader lets them idle. the gasoline one drops the rpm. the elect, one continues at rated rpm. That looks like a clutch from some type of go cart. There should be some type of pressure controlled throttle .
I doubt it has any type of pressure controlled throttle because I dont see any wires or hose going from the tank back to the motor.
Would it be possible that the pressure building from the compressors make the motor idle down?
05-03-2013 02:33 PM
67Elcamino Thank You Bill... Yes I understand and agree with what your saying. I though about it very very carefully and I have abusy 4 year old daughter that hangs around the garage with me while I work on minor stuff. Im going to take your advise and strip it out for parts.
If I decide to just use the tank and throw it far behind the garage out of anyones danger what is the psi that can be dangerous from that distance? I didnt think 150 psi pressure would explode a tank and cause much damage if it was say... 30-40 feet away...? The reason I ask is that I have a 20 gallon compressor that builds up to 125 psi and my daughter is in the garage while its running at times. Would this tank have the risk of exploding as well? I figured if ut was rusty and week in one area it would slightly start ripping and relieving air before it builds high enough to explode? Im just wondering

You are scaring the crap out of me!!! I just turned 40, saw my first white hair, rapidly becoming harder to get up and out from under my car. IM GONNA RUN OUT AND GET ME SOME GOOD LIFE INSURANCE AFTER WORK TODAY!

Thank you for the precautions
05-03-2013 09:15 AM
Ironpony Wow I don't know who welded on that tank, But that will weaken the tank. Some where on that tank will be a ASME tag listing the max pressure. It will read like 150 WP that would mean 150 psi max pressure. And the pressure that it should run at will be less than that, about 25psi less. So if it is a 150psi tank then it should run at 125psi. But by welding on it no one can tell what that max pressure will be now. You said that you run it up to 144 psi how do you know that it won't burst at 145 now that it's been welded on. It could be a bomb and kill everyone big enough to die. I am not kidding! I seen a compressor tank mounted right behind a cab on a service truck explode and take the cab right off the truck. The best thing to do with the tank now is to cut it up and make a BBQ out of it. The other posters that told you to put a unloader valve on it weren't kidding either. It would also need two safety pop off valves. (Valves that open at a preset pressure) Mount one on the air compressor discharge line and one on the tank. They should be set at the max pressure of the tank. I am not saying this stuff to put you down or shame you in any way. I'm just trying to save your life or folks around you. By the way that compressor head is either a Schults or a China copy of a Schults and is rated for 14 CFM at 125psi. And the clutch on the engine is not made for compressor duty it could be for a go cart but is not for a compressor. If you decide to ignore what I and others have said then please mount this thing outside and don't let anyone near it when it's running. And since you have already taken it to 144psi then don't run it past 100psi. I hope this helps Bill
05-03-2013 06:36 AM
timothale
compressor

On both my twin tank construction compressors the electric motor and the gasoline engines run all the time, the unloader lets them idle. the gasoline one drops the rpm. the elect, one continues at rated rpm. That looks like a clutch from some type of go cart. There should be some type of pressure controlled throttle .
05-02-2013 10:38 PM
67Elcamino
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65ELCMO View Post
That is a vertical tank that soneone took 2 compressors and welded on.
That looks like a 8 or 11 horse honda look on the case for a number starting with GX. That is the engine series and three numbers will be the size ie 240. 360, etc
The compressor looks imported. The tank is worth the money you paid. Keep it for additional air storage.
The motor is a GSX240-242 Is this 7 hp? Im just wondering what PSI it should build up to before it begins releasing air or stop turning the compressor.
Here are some close up pictures of the location where a run unloader would be located. I dont see a run unloader but do see a clutch on the Honda motor. How does this clucth operate? does it disengage after so much back pressure from the compressor?
05-02-2013 09:59 PM
timothale
wd 40

On my gasoline compressor I have to use a little wd 40 every 3 or 4 months on the throttle controller. if it gets sticky the engine dies when it's time to start the pumping cycle after idling.
05-02-2013 08:40 PM
65ELCMO And yes it needs a pilot valve and throttle control. About $100.00
05-02-2013 08:37 PM
65ELCMO That is a vertical tank that soneone took 2 compressors and welded on.
That looks like a 8 or 11 horse honda look on the case for a number starting with GX. That is the engine series and three numbers will be the size ie 240. 360, etc
The compressor looks imported. The tank is worth the money you paid. Keep it for additional air storage.
05-02-2013 11:09 AM
67Elcamino Anyone want to buy it!! LOL. Sounds very complicated. I usually can figure thing out and challenge myself to do so but given that Im working 60-65 hours a week (no OT pay. Im in management) I just cant get into another project on a tool I need for another. Thank you very very much for the good info.

I think Im going to buy a 220 volt compressor or convert this one to electric. I paint in my garage and just dont need another reason to draw attention from a neighbor.. etc..

I currently use a 5hp 25 gal Devilbiss pro-air compressor that works fine when I paint a car in sections (the last picture I posted shows my 67 Elcamino that I shot with it) Im looking for something that I can use to shoot an entire car and also use for a sandblasting cabinet

Anyways here are some pictures if any of you are familiar with the parts and can give me an idea what I can look to get for it..
05-02-2013 10:50 AM
matt167 It should have a constant run unloader. Looks like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Air-Comp...1720%26ps%3D54

It will close the valve on the tank side and blow off what the compressor is compressing thru the muffler when it's up to pressure. Usually the throttle is controlled with a 'whip' thru the throttle port also, so that it will idle down when it's up to pressure. If you run it at idle, make sure that it does not under speed the pump. Honda's idle at 1,800 stock, just use a pully calc to determin what you have or need
05-01-2013 11:29 PM
NEW INTERIORS Should have a pressure switch on it.... Post some pictures of it so we can help you better..
05-01-2013 11:15 PM
67Elcamino
Gas air compressor vs electric

I just purchased a pieced together 60 gal air compressor Powered by a 7 up Honda engine. It has a dual piston air pump but I don't know the CFM and does not have any identifying numbers on the pump. My question is how the pumps stop compressing when the tank is full? Is it a clutch system that stops turning the pumps when the pressure build high enough? I ran it about 15 minutes until the pressure reached about 145lbs but noticed the engine idling rough and vibrating but kept on turning the pump. I stopped it because I was afraid to ruin something? Does anyone have an idea how this systems operates?
I purchased it from a relative that no longer had room for it. He didn't know much about it as he took it for a trade in. I payed him $100 for it so didn't ask many questions.

How could I tell what the CFM is? What psi I should expect for it to build up, etc.....?

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