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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-14-2013 08:37 AM
tech69 did I miss something here? why not loosen both the hinge to door bolts and raise it evenly and keep your gap? No twisty wrench?
05-14-2013 07:23 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by david-b View Post
Alright so made it out to the garage on Saturday and didn't have the best of luck. I realized that taking off the fender meant also taking off the hood, and it just wasn't going to happen that day. I was able to get a rachet and socket on the bottom bolts on the cowl, and was loosening those and trying to get the door up. However, since the door had to be open to loosen/tighten those bolts, it was hard to jack up the door into place. So after a couple times of doing that, there was still no change.

Then decided to add some shims on the bottom hinge (door side) to get it to push the door out some (I know, was told not to because it's not professional), but is only temporary until I find a body guy. Everytime I take the car out to shows, always run into body guys who want to work on her. So that pushed the door some, and then moved the striker up a little. It fits, not perfect, but much better than before still. I'll work on it some more, but just short on time do to personal stuff right now. You can see in the attachment that it fits decent. If you're looking specifically at the alignment then ya you can tell. But again, just needed it in place where I can drive it for the time being.

As far as the drivers side, it looks like I can do the bottom, but the top the pins go into the door if taking it off, so wouldn't work. Also, that little roller that rolls along the track to where the door opens up half or full way, is nearly off the pin, which explains a lot on the drivers door. So I feel I can rebuild the bottom first still entirely on the car, but will have to take off the top entirely. Hopefully, that all works out. No idea when I'll get to that though.

Bought a full set of the T bits from AutoZone. Was $13 for the set, and much better than what Harbor Freight had. I believe it was a T24 for reference.

Again, thanks for all the help.
/D
If you loosen the top bolts to the cowl as well leaving ONE tight, you can lift up on the door moving the bottom hinge a little and then tighten ONE of the bottom hinge to cowl bolts to check the door. Another method is if you have a slide hammer and can get a grab of the lower hinge to snap it back a little.

With the correct tool it is possible to get those bottom bolts to cowl loose but they don't come cheap.

Snap on Tools s Type Door Hinge Wrench Ratcheting Orange Screwdriver Handle | eBay




Brian
05-14-2013 05:02 AM
deadbodyman WOW ,Its been a long time since I worked on one of those...
To get at the pillar bolts you could try removing the inner skirt...I believe thats a steel one instead of plastic so even that could be a bear...
05-12-2013 03:32 PM
david-b Alright so made it out to the garage on Saturday and didn't have the best of luck. I realized that taking off the fender meant also taking off the hood, and it just wasn't going to happen that day. I was able to get a rachet and socket on the bottom bolts on the cowl, and was loosening those and trying to get the door up. However, since the door had to be open to loosen/tighten those bolts, it was hard to jack up the door into place. So after a couple times of doing that, there was still no change.

Then decided to add some shims on the bottom hinge (door side) to get it to push the door out some (I know, was told not to because it's not professional), but is only temporary until I find a body guy. Everytime I take the car out to shows, always run into body guys who want to work on her. So that pushed the door some, and then moved the striker up a little. It fits, not perfect, but much better than before still. I'll work on it some more, but just short on time do to personal stuff right now. You can see in the attachment that it fits decent. If you're looking specifically at the alignment then ya you can tell. But again, just needed it in place where I can drive it for the time being.

As far as the drivers side, it looks like I can do the bottom, but the top the pins go into the door if taking it off, so wouldn't work. Also, that little roller that rolls along the track to where the door opens up half or full way, is nearly off the pin, which explains a lot on the drivers door. So I feel I can rebuild the bottom first still entirely on the car, but will have to take off the top entirely. Hopefully, that all works out. No idea when I'll get to that though.

Bought a full set of the T bits from AutoZone. Was $13 for the set, and much better than what Harbor Freight had. I believe it was a T24 for reference.

Again, thanks for all the help.
/D
05-09-2013 11:31 AM
tech69 might as well get an impact driver too. The kind you hammer to break loose bolts. They come in handy, especially for strikers with the phillips head.
05-09-2013 08:09 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by david-b View Post
I absolutely hate Harbor Freight tools. I've broken so many of them over the year... ratchets, sockets, wrenches.... they're just cheap. Prefer to spend a little more money up front to get tools that will last. I have Craftsman tools that my Great Grandfather used. Would like my tools to last like that too. I'll probably just go to Sears and see what they got in a full package like that.
Good thinking, Harbor Freight is my last resort. Something like the little shorty wrenches, I bought a set to get my headers off and they still come in handy once in a while. Try your REAL parts store in town (not the "McParts" stores) and you will often find quality tools like S&K. Believe it or not Lowes sells Kobalt which is a Snap On tools label. They are really pretty good I have found.

Brian
05-09-2013 08:06 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by david-b View Post
Sadly I won't be at the garage until Saturday, but I will make the adjustments and hopefully be good. Ideally, would like to get the drivers side started. I'll post pics and progress when I get there!

Does anyone know what size the striker hex is? Would like to pick one up before I go there. Thanks
I believe it's T-50, but as DBM says, just get the set.

Brian
05-09-2013 08:05 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Brian, You do know this door bending(not hinge bending) tool was made for non- adjustable hinges like for the S-10 and GM trucks ...bending a door with adjustable hinges like the car in the pic is basicly a no-no....and its mostly mis- used to bend a door up when the pins and bushing are wore out to get the door to close again. Its a handy( go too tool) for the S-10 though...
Exactly, that is what I was saying, it's a no-no. I didn't remember that is WHY they were made, for the weld on hinges.

Brian
05-09-2013 07:03 AM
david-b
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
You can buy the whole rack of torks bits for under 10.00 at HF but you can (in a pinch) use vice grips on the head to get it off.
I absolutely hate Harbor Freight tools. I've broken so many of them over the year... ratchets, sockets, wrenches.... they're just cheap. Prefer to spend a little more money up front to get tools that will last. I have Craftsman tools that my Great Grandfather used. Would like my tools to last like that too. I'll probably just go to Sears and see what they got in a full package like that.
05-09-2013 06:58 AM
deadbodyman MY BAD.....On second look, thats a camaro (welded hinges)just what its made for...for some reason I thought it was a Regal
05-09-2013 06:56 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post




The tool for bending the hinges is "ok" but really you want to move things where they need to be. Let's face it, seldom does the hinge get bent when you are using one of these tools, the weakest point is going to bend, and that isn't the hinge its self it's going to be the mounting of the hinge on the door or the cowl or B pillar or where ever the hinge is mounted. So bending to make the door fit may be long lasting, but it also may be short lived being it was bent for a reason, it is weakened and it will go back same place after a while. So it's sort of a last resort. It's also a great tool for the alignment in that you can loosen the hinge bolts only a little and use this tool with it's leverage to move the door a little.

Brian
Brian, You do know this door bending(not hinge bending) tool was made for non- adjustable hinges like for the S-10 and GM trucks ...bending a door with adjustable hinges like the car in the pic is basicly a no-no....and its mostly mis- used to bend a door up when the pins and bushing are wore out to get the door to close again. Its a handy( go too tool) for the S-10 though...
05-09-2013 06:48 AM
deadbodyman You can buy the whole rack of torks bits for under 10.00 at HF but you can (in a pinch) use vice grips on the head to get it off.
05-09-2013 06:37 AM
david-b Sadly I won't be at the garage until Saturday, but I will make the adjustments and hopefully be good. Ideally, would like to get the drivers side started. I'll post pics and progress when I get there!

Does anyone know what size the striker hex is? Would like to pick one up before I go there. Thanks
05-08-2013 12:40 PM
tech69 i like to remove the striker so i can better gauge the changes. you know the door is where it needs to be with no striker and from that point it's very easy to tell if the door shifts up or down/in or out by simply looking at the top of the door as you slowly close it with the striker in. if you bring the door to the striker you are more likely to settle as opposed to making sure it's gonna be latching correctly. either way, the problem will get solved.
05-08-2013 10:25 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by david-b View Post
I don't have the right size hex (forget the proper name) to get the striker off. Anyone know the size offhand? I will have to pick one up and check that out.

The door will close on its own with the striker in place. If I pick up the door as it closes, its smoother, which makes me think the striker isn't causing the problem, but will still check out and remove.

The gap is tighter at the bottom than the top in the front. The top looks a little big compared to the other side. Feels that if the whole door is tilted towards the front of the car, it'll all match up good.
I can't make it clear enough, you adjust the door THEN the striker to the door. If the door is fitting as it should closed then you would of course adjust the door to where the striker is, it is after all fitting when the door is latched. So you would want to be sure to get down at eye level and see if the door is being pushed up or down, then adjust the door at the cowl to make it hit the striker perfect.

So adjusting the door to fit the striker is perfectly normal, and very common. The door sagged, you correct the sagging door and the it fits perfect. This is very common. Not every door is the same of course. But making the door fit, to the striker, beautiful, or move the striker to make it fit the door. But the fit of the DOOR is what is most important. Moving the striker to then fit the door to complete the alignment if needed.

Brian
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