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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-23-2013 11:36 PM
ddarnell Great advise tech69 and it's coming at the just the right time. I have a 73 Satellite in the shop that is moving to primer. Big, long hood with big radius quarter/doors/fenders.
Thanks
06-18-2013 12:22 AM
tech69 a little off topic but it's good advice nonetheless. Any time you are working a hood or deck that has an inner shell adhered to the skin, you must focus in on imperfections more than ever. The old painter used to say that it was completely acceptable to have a swallow or two on hoods and decks and that it was normal. That didn't fly with me and was completely unacceptable to at least not try to improve your work on them. So for a period of time that was my focus, to just focus more on them and to not let "primer handle it". There's really no such thing. I don't know why anyone would ever say that. That's about as stupid as saying once you block out the guidecoat on the low spot that it's going to disappear...it doesn't!!! So anytime someone says "we'll let primer handle it", you will be addressing that area thru EVERY round of primer and may decide when it's much too late in the process to skim the area in question when you just could have done it to begin with. You learn this from letting stuff go by to primer and then you deal with it and learn exactly what NOT to leave for primer. You do that for about a decade and you'll come to the conclusion that you should leave NOTHING for primer but good straight work. My point, don't take it to primer til you feel it by hand and have no question at all about it. Not so critical anywhere else, or shall I say, not as easy to be fooled by it anywhere else. Being fooled by it means you're excited about how straight it's gonna be then you puke when you see it finally in paint. Those kind of surprises are the worst but hard work and attention to detail and mistakes will eliminate that.
06-18-2013 12:08 AM
MARTINSR What Henry described is exactly how I have done it for years, leave the original foam on the beam and simply put a little urethane seam sealer over it before the skin is laid into place.

I have used Winzer (a wholesale shop product) products for the last number of years and haven't any experience with any other but 3M, SEM, Fusor and many others make an anti flutter foam.
You want the foam so that it gives a little bit with the panels. That is why the factory uses it.

Brian
06-17-2013 10:30 PM
tech69 the expanding foam creates problems itself cause you can't control its expansion, but it is the "I-Car" recommended way if that means anything.


I use 2 part seam sealer and haven't had any issues. It does shrink but so does most stuff. if you can throw some heat on it before you bodywork then that's some insurance. the guy who taught me this also does them on door skin intrusion beams after he slices it close to the skin to leave the foam on the impact bar. His word can be trusted as well. He has owned a shop for 30 years and has been doing it that way for a long time.
06-17-2013 09:00 PM
ddarnell Thanks. Can you point me to a product?
05-09-2013 02:48 PM
MARTINSR Properly it is an "anti flutter" foam, a semi soft foam.

You want it to flex a little. If you were to use something hard it would end up showing on the outside when the metal next to it flexed and that area didn't.

Brian
05-09-2013 02:03 PM
ddarnell
A quick novice question

What's the method for reattaching the hood or trunk lid skin to the inner frame. I have two hoods and a trunk lid that I have refinished (ready to shoot) but they are not anchored to the inner (or under) frame out in the middle areas. Dug a bunch of expanding foam out of one. Seam sealer? More foam? Old issues of Hot Rod?

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