|05-20-2013 09:20 AM|
|05-20-2013 07:20 AM|
|05-19-2013 06:51 PM|
|EOD Guy||To answer your wuestion: Yes you can tie it into the pos on the batt, but the sense wire will see a steady 13v from the battery and may not work as well as splicing the #2 wire into the feed just before it goes into the fuse block. No need to cut the feed wirem just strip back the insul about 1 inch, use a screwdriver to pry apart the strands, about 1/2 of the strands on each side of the blade, push the new wire thru the opening in the strands and wrap tightly, apply some solder and put on some liquid elec tape...... nice secure splice.|
|05-19-2013 02:53 PM|
You can use a 3 wire 12si as a direct replacement for a 10si, and the stock version is available with output up to 94 amps. If you use all 3 wires it will put out full voltage at just a few hundred RPM above idle. They are also cheap and very easy to find in any auto parts store.
There are newer alternaors (like the CS130) that have higher output, but they are more expensive. Unless you need more than 94 amps, the 12si is a good choice for a V-belt system.
|05-19-2013 01:26 PM|
The energize signal comes from the #1 terminal. This needs to be connected to a switched 12V source through a small resistor (approx 35 ohms or so). GM did it either through the GEN light (using the filament resistance) or through an in-line resistor when the vehicle had a VOLT gauge instead of a light. The harness you noted simply has the resistor built in.
To answer your other questions, yes you can swap the pulleys on the newer alternators, and there's even a CS130 that bolts in place of the SI family (be sure to measure the spacing between the mounting lugs). Of course "newer" doesn't necessarily mean "better" - otherwise everyone here would be driving new cars powered by LS motors. The CS130 and the like all work exactly the same as the SI family. They replaced the SI mainly because they are smaller and lighter - important for automakers trying to meet CAFE requirements but not necessarily better for a hotrodder. Ever priced rebuild parts for a CS alternator as compared to those for an SI?
|05-19-2013 01:06 PM|
Has anyone tried these.
Anti Feed Back Diode Harness 10SI 12SI 15SI 27SI Delco Alternator Regulator Lead | eBay
They claim you don't need to rev the engine to ignite the regulator anymore.
|05-19-2013 12:42 PM|
|05-19-2013 12:39 PM|
|05-19-2013 10:54 AM|
|sparkchaser||While we're beating this SI alternator three wire versus one wire to death, remember they have been obsolete for 25 years. There are much better alternators now. Delphi CS130d, CS144, Ford 3G,4G, and Nippondenso alternators all put out about twice the power, have dual cooling fans, much more precision voltage regulators and better reliability. If you are building a car with all the latest things (cooling fans, AC, sound system, and power everything), you need to upgrade to a more modern alternator.|
|05-19-2013 10:22 AM|
|05-19-2013 07:06 AM|
I wired an SI10 into my 64 and it was pretty easy. It energizes at an idle and is rock solid at 14.64 volts. Much better than the old external regulator system.
If you look at the picture, I still have a regulator but it is dummied out. I tied the 4 wires together -terminals 1 and 4 and terminals 2 and 3, then hooked them at the alternator at the 1 and 2 posistions.I ran a new 10 gauge wire for the 55 amp alternator and tucked it into the convoluted wrap. No muss no fuss.
The Idiot light works as it should also, plus the number 2 terminal (voltage sense circuit as mentioned before) is a long enough run to work correctly.
|05-19-2013 06:33 AM|
If you want to "fix" your alternator problem read this...
I would never recommend a one wire system for all of the reasons stated in the above article.
If you want to learn about wiring whys and hows read through the site. Enough knowledge and tips there to keep you busy fixing the rest of your wiring for a long time.
|05-18-2013 08:31 PM|
|05-18-2013 08:23 PM|
If it has the normal terminal connector, it's easy to go two a three wire, then you won't need to blip the throttle etc....
#1 terminal goes to the idiot light.
#2 terminal goes to the hot side of the elec electrical system with a 5 foot, or so, run of wire. The extra wire allows the demand on the elec system to even out, so that the alt gets a nice even demand etc....
|05-18-2013 06:59 PM|
|kleen56||This may be my problem. The original pulley measured 2 5/8" and the billet is 2 13/16", slightly larger, but may be the reason I have to rev it up higher to ignite the alternator. Once it ignites, it's holding charge at 14.4 volts. While messing with the ampmeter, I triggered something because now the dash lights comes on as before. I'm wondering if there is way of triggering the self ignitor when the ignition key is on without having to rev up the engine? I appreciate the help fellas...|
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