Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics> PROMAXX freedom series
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: PROMAXX freedom series Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
05-24-2013 09:44 PM
NovaLou I did some research, once I get the pistons I can get piston to block clearance. So it looks like my block will be going back to the shop once my piston arrive.
05-24-2013 08:56 PM
NovaLou Is it a must that I deck my block? I'm wondering why the shop that prepared my block didn't do this. I only paid $240 for hot tank, magnaflux, new bearings, new plugs, honed block and polished crank.
05-24-2013 08:45 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaLou View Post
How much should I expect to pay to have my block zero decked?
Where I am it ranges from $150-$200
05-24-2013 08:34 PM
NovaLou How much should I expect to pay to have my block zero decked?
05-24-2013 05:54 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
The better quality the machining the more the cost,,,
Yeah, but the alternative is heads that sit askew on the block, creating different static compression ratios cylinder to cylinder and an intake manifold that won't seal up. You either have the money to do a correct rebuild or you don't.
05-24-2013 05:13 PM
vinniekq2 when I overhaul and engine,I spend quite a lot on machine work.Im fussy and have to pay the price. The block gets cleaned(several times if you count thread chasing)new cam bearings and frost plugs.
Machine work is align hone as required,bore as required,finish hone as required,squared and decked.crank gets ground and or honed. heads get resurfaced,valve grind and guides as required.rods are magnafluxed/resized.rotating parts all get "precision" balanced.some blocks require clearancing,,,
The machine shop guy gets a few bucks
The better quality the machining the more the cost,,,
05-24-2013 04:33 PM
NovaLou Filling out the form now. Thanks
05-24-2013 04:02 PM
NovaLou The car its going in is a 1969 Nova. I want a street car with above average HP (350-400). Don't know how much its gonna cost to zero deck the block but I can go $400 on Roller cam lifter and springs. I'm just not certain which cam to go with now and from what the Tech said it sounds like things got more complicated after finding out the block was cast #3970010
05-24-2013 03:52 PM
techinspector1 I feel that we have done the OP a dis-service. I jumped in first thing with a fairly agressive roller tappet camshaft, just to get some numbers up on the board. Here is what I would suggest to the OP. Go to this link and fill out the cam recommendation form on this page....
Contact Us

The pistons and heads will work just fine, it's the cam we're worried about now. Give all the info to the technicians on the form and let them suggest a type of cam and a grind for you, based on your 10.1:1 static compression ratio and intended use of the motor.

Traditionally, a roller cam, complete with cam, lifters, thrust button, compatible distributor gear and reinforced front cover will cost in excess of $600. By now though, I'm sure you understand the gamble with a flat tappet camshaft, even though you can get into a flat tappet arrangement for around $200.

If you don't feel comfortable filling out the cam form, simply call up the tech phone number and talk with one of the techs about the camshaft choice. Just so you know, Howards has traditionally had the lowest price for an aftermarket retrofit hydraulic roller cam and lifters.
05-24-2013 02:39 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaLou View Post
Yeah, I got that the Howard roller cam would have actually been more expensive than the Crane cam the Tech recommended. Now knowing the casting # of my block it seems to have become more complicated to find the right cam, just when I made up my mind on the Crane cam.
What's the budget? Intended use? If the roller is too much work don't get scared off from the flat tappit cam.
Big spring pressure, big lift flat tappits are alot more prone to failure.
If you are trying to do this and it comes down to dollars and cents, then spend a little extra and have the cam nitrided. This, along with proper break in and chemicals will almost ensure you have no issues.
You can spend the money to have it zero decked, buy good quality roller rockers, and a nitrided cam for what your going to spend to go roller. I agree, and will say so again, that roller is a better way to go long term. But I have a few builds myself, and have had a hand in many, and have only experienced one failure.....and it was a big Lunati, and the guy wouldn't listen and ran conventional 10w30 oil right after break in.....the cam lasted 2 oil changes and wiped a lobe. If you take the proper steps, you will be fine for your goals.
05-24-2013 02:06 PM
NovaLou Yeah, I got that the Howard roller cam would have actually been more expensive than the Crane cam the Tech recommended. Now knowing the casting # of my block it seems to have become more complicated to find the right cam, just when I made up my mind on the Crane cam.
05-24-2013 02:02 PM
NovaLou My block was not zero decked at the shop, is it necessary to do this before I start the build and whats the cost of having this done?
05-24-2013 01:59 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaLou View Post
Does this mean I cant use the Crane cam? Sounds like this means more money.
Still need roller lifters, and everything tech said above....that's where I was going with my post earlier....its not just a cam, there is more to it then that......its "right" but not cheap
05-24-2013 01:56 PM
NovaLou Does this mean I cant use the Crane cam? Sounds like this means more money.
05-24-2013 01:54 PM
NovaLou
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
nice little cam.After tech OKs it,go for it.should be a fun street car
Does this mean I cant use the Crane cam? Sounds like this means more money.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:37 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.