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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-25-2013 08:41 PM
itsjusti I do pics and with part/torque specific I put back in the part and store it. 80% of the time they are usually general sizes. I have them all seperated into slide drawer organizers. For head size specific I take notes on where they go in a text document in the autos folder. If it calls for a 10mm half inch while applying the part I examine it and see if I could use a shorter one that works. Most of the time its possible but sometimes for what I need done calls for longer. Most of everything I do is a modification to the original so head/thread size is the only thing that counts.

Something kind of related.
I read an article in an import tuner one time of a guy using titanium and magnesium bolts, nuts, screws, studs, brackets etc. etc. in his buildup. From the simple screw holding the sun visor to an electrical clip to drivetrain even on lines the couplings were all fitted with the lightest materials. If I remember right this was 10 years ago or so it was on a 240sx. I may still have the mag. I looked up sets to use and omg outrageous pricing due to the manufacturing of them so since then ive short cutted that method with using shorter and amount of attaching methods.
05-25-2013 01:46 PM
Richiehd Now if I could just remember where I set that last beer.......
05-24-2013 10:44 AM
gearheadslife yup. and I take pic's tons of pic's..
oh and burn said pics to a c/d or dvd.
sucks when you loose the photo's before needing them..
05-24-2013 05:58 AM
What did I do with that nut??.

Organizing Your Parts for Restoration Projects
A piece of cardboard and a felt pen can help you keep the parts you take off an old engine properly organized.

Being organized is a big part of restoring cars and engines. When you’re taking parts off a car one year and putting them back on two or three years later, you need a good way to keep track of them.

Over the years, I have tried taping parts, labeling them with string tags or putting them in plastic bags. Magic marker notes wear off tape. String tags seem to attract grease that makes them unreadable. Plastic bags full of parts are almost as easy to lose or lose track of as parts themselves, and they can get very greasy and the bags are relatively expensive.

I have found the best way to store parts is on old pieces of cardboard. To attach nuts and bolts to cardboard, simply poke holes in it, put the bolt through and tighten the nut on the other side. Certain parts can be attached to the cardboard with electrical ties. The very cheapest electrical ties will suffice. If you are storing nuts that came off studs, rather than nuts and bolts combined, you can use electrical ties to hold the nuts to the cardboard. You can even use different colored electrical ties to indicate where the nuts came from.

If you’re keeping track of head bolts, cut the cardboard in the shape of the head and put the bolts in proper sequence. Label each position with a magic-marker. For some reason, the ink stays on cardboard much longer than on tape and string tags. A nice thing about storing fasteners and parts on cardboard, is that when it comes time to use a wire wheel to clean them, and some treatment to keep them from rusting again, you can take them off the cardboard, restore them, and put them back on the cardboard again.

This is a very easy system to use and I think you’ll find it works great. So, start saving those nice pieces of cardboard you get in your parts shipments. You’ll need a lot of cardboard in all shapes and sizes.

John Gunnell
From Engine Builder:

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