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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-24-2015 07:19 PM
MARTINSR Good stuff is right, awesome John!

07-24-2015 06:03 PM
496CHEVY3100 As always Amazing work
07-24-2015 04:11 PM
John long Unfortunately the corner piece was much worse than I was hoping. (Aren't they always)?

I was able to make the inner frame work piece a little longer in order to replace the worst of the corner.

Next, I made the second piece that has the second bend.

Everything seems to fit together well. I will weld the assemblies together and brush some epoxy primer on both inner surfaces and button it all up.

I believe this is going to make a good repair. So far I am glad I decided to fix this lid.

Just a thought. The only thing I used for this entire repair was a bead roller with a tipping die and the shrinker/stretcher jaws. I did use my little three foot brake but could have gotten along just fine without it.

Brian Martin once said that any job was doable if you broke it down into enough small pieces. This is the perfect example of that.

07-24-2015 03:43 PM
John long I have not posted for the last week or so since I have just been doing the same thing but on the other side.

I have all the pieces made except the outside corner for the drivers side.

These pictures will bring everyone up to date.

Finished welding and grinding the RH side of the deck lid skin after cutting out the inner structure so I could get behind it to planish it.

I was hoping to save the corner piece by sand blasting it and filling a couple of pits so I cut it out as well as the other section of the inside frame.

Now that the skin could be welded and I had access to both sides to work my weld seam it is time to be building it back.

07-16-2015 04:58 AM
deadbodyman 4 hrs aint so bad for all that. being patient is the hard part ,I usually start off welding nice and easy then hafk way through start rushing it and pushing until it warps.It takes a special kind of patience to do a few thousand welds without rushing it at the end to get it finished.
07-15-2015 11:14 PM
496CHEVY3100 [QUOTE=John long;3235553]LOL, Surely you could come up and eat that cheeseburger I owe you.

I will surprise you one day when I get to where I can get around a little better
You will think UPS delivered
07-15-2015 08:10 PM
John long LOL, Surely you could come up and eat that cheeseburger I owe you.

07-15-2015 07:08 PM
496CHEVY3100 If I could I would come help you ;;does that sound like a good excuse,
07-15-2015 06:19 PM
John long Weld, planish, grind. ....Repeat the same, over and over for 4 hours.

07-14-2015 09:08 PM
John long
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
So does that mean you will keep the repaired lid and use that, or sell it and use the good one from the coupe ???

Do you have a skin flanging tool to form the pinch seam ?
I am pretty sure I will use the convertible lid I am working on. The other one is much better on the inside put it has a few pin holes itself in the lower corner. Neither one is perfect but If I cut up the other lid than I loose whatever it is worth.

I know they make a tool to remove the flange but I am not familiar with a tool to fold it. You met Steve in Nashville last year. He has a skinning hammer I can borrow.

07-14-2015 07:43 PM
Too Many Projects So does that mean you will keep the repaired lid and use that, or sell it and use the good one from the coupe ???

Do you have a skin flanging tool to form the pinch seam ?
07-14-2015 06:23 PM
John long
Replacement skin for deck lid

Once the deck lid skin was removed, I cut a piece of stock to fit the cut line of the lid, clamped it in place, and scribed bottom edge of the lid. Remember, I had ground about 1/& off the edge to release the old skin so I already had the margin I needed for the fold on the new replacement skin.

I also added the material for the fold to the pattern.

Now that the patch is cut out it is just a matter of tipping the lip that will fold over the deck lid frame. a few passes through the bead roller and some time with a hammer and dolly takes care of that. In order to do this, you will need to keep the piece straight by running it through the shrinker/stretcher jaws to compensate for the distortion caused by tipping the fold.

So this is where I am now. My plan is to tack this outer skin in place. Then cut out the inner frame structure allowing me to get a dolly in there so I can planish the weld as I go. After the replacement skin is welded I can weld in the replacement lower frame work and we will be on to the other side.


One more thing. After cleaning out the junk from the deck lid, I went out to my parts car to see if there was anything worth saving on it. I was amazed to see the bottom of the inner structure was pretty dog gone good.....Go figure!

I assume that a usable Coupe, Sport Coope, or convertible deck lid is worth 2-3 hundred dollars so it makes sense to continue on with this repair.

07-14-2015 05:49 PM
John long While The deck lid was still intact I formed a corner piece to replace the rusty inside corner. there will have to be another half of this piece made to complete the repair.

I also went ahead and made a replacement piece for the lower section of the deck lid. It was pretty straight forward. It is a rounded angle that is formed to the same angle as the deck lid.

As you can see the only challenge is to make it fit the curve of the deck lid. This was easily done by using the shrinker/stretcher jaws to shrink the horizontal lip and stretch the verticle lip, keeping the piece straight one direction and curved the other.

Lastly, I used a grinder to grind the edge of the deck lid skin until I ground through the folded edge releasing the skin from the lid. At that point, it is was just a matter of cutting the skin off where I had marked it.

I am afraid to make this post any longer. I will come back with a new post showing the making of the replacement skin.

07-14-2015 05:04 PM
John long
rusty deck lid repair

Hopefully the repair of this deck lid will be interesting to some who are following along. I felt like it would be good to repair the deck lid and fit it to the car before finishing the tail pan.

The first thing I did was to remove the lid and spend 2-3 hours getting the sound deadening material out of it.....Not fun.

I don't know that I will need it but just in Case, I scribed a line 6 inches up from the bottom of the lid and then laid a piece of tape down marking the same six inches on the tape. It is just easier to see on the tape.

I also circled a few of the pinholes so you can see why I am reskinning the bottom few inches..

Next I laid a straight edge across the lid an inch or so above the damage and marked the cut line for the patch. My concern is making sure everything lines up and fits as the factory made it.

I will post a little more after dinner showing how I am hoping to make this repair in a way that allows me to control the long weld accross the bottom. Getting a good weld that does not draw is going to take a little enginuity and patience.


07-14-2015 09:56 AM
John long Man, you guys got that right. I still have the rh quarter panel to go. I moved to the trunk area because I just didn't want to do the same thing again.

I have not stopped enjoying the build but the challenging "new" things are definitely the fun part.

I have started the trunk lid and will post some picture when I get enough done to make it worth looking at.

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