Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> 53 Belair conv rust repair
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: 53 Belair conv rust repair Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 12:11 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
You know what would REALLY be nice.....interchangeable dies for our flanger/punch the ones that come on it are a bit small for a plug weld and too big for screw holes....those whitney punches are great for a few holes but for 50 -100 holes you just cant beat an air punch. I usually have double punch for a bigger hole.
It has a depth gauge you can set up for any depth the throat will allow. And the deep throat, oh heck is that useful! I really have been glad I bought those.

Brian
Yesterday 01:44 PM
timothale
hole spacing.

I use the accordian piece from a old lamp to get even spacing for holes, bead roller beads, etc. I have a couple in my sheet metal tools box
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/405324035185427349/
Yesterday 01:04 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
You know what would REALLY be nice.....interchangeable dies for our flanger/punch the ones that come on it are a bit small for a plug weld and too big for screw holes....those whitney punches are great for a few holes but for 50 -100 holes you just cant beat an air punch. I usually have double punch for a bigger hole.
Absolutely. My Whitney style punch probably is harder to work than a good name brand but it will wear you out after so many holes in 18 ga. What I do is take my air operated flanger/puncher and use it for my pilot holes and then I can easily drill them out to the size I want. The only short coming to doing it that way is you still have to deeburr the back side of the hole after you drill it.

John
Yesterday 12:48 PM
deadbodyman You know what would REALLY be nice.....interchangeable dies for our flanger/punch the ones that come on it are a bit small for a plug weld and too big for screw holes....those whitney punches are great for a few holes but for 50 -100 holes you just cant beat an air punch. I usually have double punch for a bigger hole.
01-24-2015 09:54 PM
MARTINSR Another bonus tool that I find to be well worth the money is a Roper Witney punch.

The "XX"


And the Jr.





For punching holes to screw or bolt a panel in or plug welding it in, awesome tools to have in the shop.

Brian
01-24-2015 07:18 PM
phoenix73 Hey John,

Thanks for the list, time to go shopping i think
I'm just glad we don't have your rust problems down here in SA but i'm looking forward to your next instalment

Cheers

Darren
01-24-2015 06:15 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix73 View Post
Hi John, just had to say wow, this has been an education, i've just spent the last few evenings reading through your whole thread and i has given me the kick up the pants to attempt the metal work on my first project, just got to get it moved to the new house first.
Going to start by investing in some metal working tools, what would you suggest for my first purchase?
Thanks for your time and looking forward to the next 150 pages

Darren
Cool Darren. I am glad you posted. I am far from being a master metal worker but my purpose has been to show other enthusiasts like yourself what can be done with a few basic tools, a little practice and a whole lot of want too.

The First thing you need is a shear and a pair of RH and LH aviation snips. Cutting 18 ga is not easy without them.

As far as sheet metal tools go, here would be my priority list.

1 Metal brake. If you can afford it, a 4 foot Pan (box) brake would be great.

2 Mig welder........ Obviously should be at the top of the list.

3 Shrinker/stretcher jaws.......Tied with the bead roller

4 Bead roller.........Tied with the Shrinker/stretcher jaws.

6 English wheel

7 Plannishing hammer

8 Slip roll

9 Oxy/acetylene torch


Almost all of my tools are either home made or inexpensive imports but they work and get the job done. High quality professional grade tools are wonderful if they are in your budget but not necessary to get the job done.

Good luck. I think you will find metal work both interesting and rewarding.

John
01-24-2015 05:41 PM
phoenix73 Hi John, just had to say wow, this has been an education, i've just spent the last few evenings reading through your whole thread and i has given me the kick up the pants to attempt the metal work on my first project, just got to get it moved to the new house first.
Going to start by investing in some metal working tools, what would you suggest for my first purchase?
Thanks for your time and looking forward to the next 150 pages

Darren
01-24-2015 05:39 PM
John long
transmission hump

Transmission (bellhousing) hump trimmed, fitted, and tacked in place. On to cutting out and fitting the toe boards.

John


01-24-2015 05:37 PM
deadbodyman Your really whoppin it now john...
01-24-2015 05:30 PM
John long
transmission hump

Transmission (bellhousing) hump trimmed, fitted, and tacked in place. On to cutting out and fitting the toe boards.

John


01-24-2015 10:16 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
don't cha just hate cutting your own welds....That's why I always leave them a little proud ,its bad enough having to cut and redo but not being able to find them really sucks...Is it me or did that go a lot quicker and cleaner than cleaning and patching the rusty stuff. It sure looks better. Man ,you really whipped them up.
Oh Yah! You are right on all counts. They are just sitting there now so the work to put them in is just beginning but there certainly is no comparison between the old and new. I don't know why even thought of fooling with the old stuff. This will be so much better.

John
01-24-2015 08:31 AM
deadbodyman don't cha just hate cutting your own welds....That's why I always leave them a little proud ,its bad enough having to cut and redo but not being able to find them really sucks...Is it me or did that go a lot quicker and cleaner than cleaning and patching the rusty stuff. It sure looks better. Man ,you really whipped them up.
01-23-2015 07:09 PM
John long Work began on the center hump today but I really only spent a couple of hours in the shop so I am pretty pleased with what I got done even if it doesn't look like a whole lot.

Obviously I made my pattern as I did with the toe boards and transferred it to the hump. I am not going to cut out the access hole but I did run a bead where it goes for a little detail. My challenge was to kick up the angle where it meets the transmission hump (dotted line). To be honest I was not sure I could move that much metal.



It took about four passes through the bead roller with the tipping die and the stretcher jaws but it did bring it up really well.





It takes a little finesse to get your angle right as well as the curve of the panel. Changing one effects the other. It just take patience to keep checking the fit of the panel and the angle of the transition until they are both correct.





And here is the final piece. It is just held in place with a couple of drill screws. (Thanks Mike). Once I get the car trimmed for the panels I will roll a curve where the bellhousing hump and toe boards meet and it will be time to weld and grind, grind and weld, and......well you know.

01-23-2015 10:22 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I went as far as trying to hire someone to do all the welding and grinding....It seems nobody enjoys doing it.its only fun when you get started.
After I closed my shop I had a fellow club member beg me to build the bottom back on his 41 Graham Hollywood. Bottom 8 inches of the outer sheet metal only.

I agreed to make the panels, tack weld them together in order to show they fit. No welding, grinding, mudding or painting, other than Epoxy primer for rust protection. He would pay me by the hour and take it to his bodyman for final assembly, body and paint.

That meant I had no responsability for the final outcome of the car, body work or paint. Also, I only had to do the fun challenging part.

Now that was the perfect job but not something you can get to do very often.

John
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.