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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 11:20 AM
idrivejunk That looks like a really nice blast job! Maybe the guy enjoyed doing a little old car stuff.
Today 06:26 AM
John long
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
You seem to have a couple extra upper control arms in the pile. You making some fancy suspension mod ??

Frame looks great..
Good eye. They belong to my friend that has given me so much stuff. Just a little "thank you."

Yesterday 11:51 PM

Yesterday 08:36 PM
Too Many Projects You seem to have a couple extra upper control arms in the pile. You making some fancy suspension mod ??

Frame looks great..
Yesterday 07:45 PM
John long Getting the frame blasted is a great mile post. Next pictures should be of a semi gloss black frame. I am going to put 2-3 wet coats of SPI black epoxy primer on it, fill any rust pits with a thin wipe of Rage Ultra and another couple of coats of black epoxy.

The blaster did a really good job. It is exciting to see it in the basement all clean.


Hopefully I am just a couple of weeks from getting back to the body. After all, that is what this thread is about. It will be exciting though to see some paint on this chassis and have it waiting for the body.

08-06-2016 08:17 PM
John long
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Are you going to need to fab front body mounts and weld them onto the sub ?
Would that happen after blasting and before painting ?
I will have to fab new ones for sure. That is ok because the factory ones are really ugly. On a convertible their main function is to keep the door from sagging. They actually pull down instead of supporting weight.

I am going to paint the frame a semi gloss black using SPI Epoxy as soon as it comes back from blasting. Then I am going to finish the bottom of the floor pans and paint them. After the body and frame are mated and shimmed I will fab the front body mounts. One other thing to consider is I have to fabricate those mounts around the big block. Motor mounts, transmission crossmember as well as body mounts will have to be made.

Touch up of the frame will be required but with the semi gloss I think I can do an acceptable job of it. I do not want to take this thing back of the frame again once it is shimmed.


08-06-2016 06:17 PM
Too Many Projects Are you going to need to fab front body mounts and weld them onto the sub ?
Would that happen after blasting and before painting ?
08-06-2016 06:07 PM
John long Just a quick update. The subframe is in and the suspension is torn down. It is just about ready to go to the sand blaster.

I am really anxious to get back to work on the body.


07-26-2016 08:14 PM
John long Hey guys. Thought I would drop in for a quick update. I wish I had more shop time but life has to be lived.

I made the ouside plates and welded them in.

Next I made gussets to go inside the plates for rigidity. I have them welded in on both sides.

The templates are made for the inside plates and top plates and hope to get started cutting them out tomorrow.

The plasma cutter has sure payed for itself during this process. This is a picture of the gussets I cut out to go inside the frame rails. This would have been a major job with a cut off disc or band saw.


07-22-2016 04:24 PM
John long I have the frame welded up and the inner walls added. Both of these verticle sections will be hidden once the inner and outer sides of the frame are added. They will be buried inside the frame rail for added strength.


07-15-2016 08:33 PM
John long
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Is the nova front or rear steer.
Rear steer David. 1974. Last year for this one.

07-15-2016 08:23 PM
496CHEVY3100 Is the nova front or rear steer.
07-15-2016 08:04 PM
John long You know, the only centerline I used was the center holes in the sub cross members. Before I cut anything off the sub, I cross measured it from corner to corner as well as corners to the center holes. I also cross measured the convertible frame at several places and it was good also. On top of that, I ran a line from bottom king pin to bottom king pin on the floor and marked that.

I tacked the the sub into position today. The lower ball joints and spindle nuts match the convertible marks plummed on the floor And the front frame horn holes and center hole in the cross member all cross measure to the body mounts on the convertible frame within 1/32". Also, a 4' carpenter square reads exactly the same at 4 locations, 2 on the convertible and 2 on the sub. If it isn't right, I don't know what else I could have done.

I would be willing to bet money, This frame will be closer than the body. Will it need to be shimmed? Of course it will.

07-15-2016 12:54 PM
deadbodyman I made a giant mistake when I did my first sub. I assumed both frames I was working with were straight and undamaged so I just took my measurements from the jig holes and didn't use a center line. Well, one wheel wasn't centered in the wheel well when the fender got put on. It wasn't until I ran a center line that I found one rail had been bent in around where the rear door pillar was. Something like this couldn't happen your case though I don't running over it with a bulldozer could bend that frame in the middle.
The Camaro that I got my sub out of didn't have any sheet metal at all on it (that's why I picked it, less work) if it did I would have looked closer because one rail was up about a 1/2 " it wasn't worth fixing so I got another one. Glad I caught that one. Common enough mistakes anyone could make but need to be watchful of. nobody wants to find out a frame was bent AFTER its all done and cant be aligned. You got to remember, these subs are about 30 yrs old most all of them have been in an accident, heck its tough to find a 5yr old car that hasn't been in an accident. Running a few reference lines before getting started isn't complicated and can save a lot of grief.
07-15-2016 06:44 AM
idrivejunk Hey John, since I'm not sure how much collision repair you've been around I'm gonna drop a couple links here in case a little more info about measuring is needed, for 100% confidence. The principle of a datum plane is very helpful in measuring big oddly shaped items such as your frame:

That is something you can establish even if your floor is less than level. A guy needs a flat, level reference to check progress with and thats what an imaginary datum plane provides. In addition, some folks make jigs to avoid repeating some measurements a lot while a chassis is under construction.

Here is a basic article that touches on the subject:

Measuring Basics - Body Shop Business

Bear in mind that for insurance work on late model body-on-frame vehicles, the unspoken tolerance is 5-7 mm. Older vehicles are rarely even within 1/4" over the length of the chassis. This is accumulated variances of length, width, and height, and on modern unibodies the spec is 1-3mm. Yikes!

I have measured just as many vehicles without computerized measuring systems as with. My structural repairs are well accepted. I confidently tell people if their frame "is OK" or not because I've studied and applied the knowledge successfully for years. However I don't splice frames, nobody ever asked me to. So the metallurgy and integrity of such is not my bag, but I'm just offering up some measuring coaching because thats what I can do.
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