i have some body work to do on the car
#1 fix 2 drilled holes in the rear decklid
#2 fix crease in the passenger side door .......
normally i would replace the door but the doors/hinges on this car are perfect, no sag/no rattles and i can close the door with 2 fingers. very very rare on a 3rd generation camaro. due to this i dont want to replace the damaged door and have to deal with hinge pin kits and all that goes with it
the damage is not bad but will need some body filler to get stright again
#3 fix minor dent on driverside rear quarter panel, this will also need some bodyfiller to be made stright again
#4 fix a few minor dime to penny sized dents
my biggest thing is im unsure what primer to use on the car since it has plastic bumper covers
with the exception of the roof the rest of the car can be scuffed and painted , the roof however has to be taken down to bare metal
should i be using an epxoy primer on the whole car ,or epoxy on roof and bumper covers only, then a standard or etching primer on the rest of the car ?
The vents would most definitely be a better choice for lowering under hood temperatures...You will be expert enough by the time you get all the work done on your car that getting these vents to look like they seamlessly belong won't be a problem...LOL
You just wait until you get primer on that puppy...I'm going to get so anal with you to get the car straight that you will be showing other people how to do it...LOL I can tell by your attitude that good enough isn't going to fly, you want it done right...I like that.
You just wait...I'm going to get so anal with you...that you will be showing other people how to do it...LOL I can tell by your attitude that good enough isn't going to fly, you want it done right...I like that.
LOL....After I posted, I was wondering who was going to have a comment like yours, trust me, Jerry didn't enter the room...but, I sure did think of editing...I hope you know what I meant...LOL...I'll choose my wording more carefully in the future Lizer.
i dont and its actually not as deep as it looks , that spot onthe right witht he round circle is actually the deepest , but its less then what i had on the rear qaurter panel
the more and more i look at the paint on the car the more and more i think im going to strip the entire car. im thinking 3 days before it goes to get primed im going to pick up a case of beer invite some friends over and start handing out sanders/sand paper lol
I know that striping a car is a lot of work, but, let me ask you a few questions.
How much money have you got in the engine?
How much are you spending on new body panels?
How much is the material going to cost?
How much more is it going to cost to strip the car?
You know where I'm going with this, I see it all to often where people spend a lot of money on other things and less on some things...now, I'm not going to say that if you don't strip the car that the paint job will fail...what I will say is that if the car is striped, you will know exactly what you have underneath...your call.
Oh, if the scrape along the side of the car isn't that bad, (less than 3/8 of an inch deep) filler should be fine...I hate saying that...I like to rough it our the best I can, is there any way you can get at it from the inside?
i tried to acess the backside of it but theres no way without taking all the pwer window stuff.
i ended up using fille ron it last night but i accidently wetn a lil light on the hardner so it too a while to fully cure , and ran out of daylight befor ei could sand it
if i told u how lil i have in the car u wouldnt belive me , but all in total i think i have around 1,500 bucks + the 450 i paid for the car , and it looks like the only panel im replacing is the hood.
let me ask u this if i strip the car could i put on a light coat of rattle can primer to help protect the metal until i take it over to get expoxy primed, or does all the rattle can primer have to come off before the epoxy primer
For the Epoxy to work properly, the rattle can primer would need to come off...the best thing to do is keep it dry, and give it a quick scuff before you put the epoxy on it.
Sounds like you got a great deal on the car...that motor, even if you had it, somebody had to have put money into it?
i rebuilt the engine with good parts i had laying around , other then that i know how to shop around for deals on parts say for example the fuel injectors are brand new and retail for just under 600 bucks , i paid 250$'s for the set, the intercoler and plumbing i picked up for 100 bucks from a fellow local board member , etc etc etc
so between stuff like that and no labor charges i built it cheap
Sounds good and happy to hear that you are able to build a car with minimal cash outlay...perhaps what I should ask is would you put junk into your engine?...Why leave potential junk on the outside of your car?
Rattle can primer is a sponge at best and would need to come off...sorry my friend.
im having a really hard time with the door , i get it nice and smooth the problem is the door has a curve to it and everytime i add filler and sand it im making a flat spaot in the curve of the door, right now im using a standard sized sandpaper block.
im thinking i nee done of those long flexable ones in order to get this right, problem is i cant buy one locally
I don' know what a standard block is but, what I use on a repair the size your working on is a long block board...16 X 2 3/4...it doesn't need to be flexible...I prefer them not to be...I don't own a flexible long board.
Having this piece of equipment would make your job easier...but...you need to think of the dent as being an imperfection in the whole door...so no pressure on the block...long board, short block...whatever block your using. I move the block at about a 45 degree angle in relationship to the dent....10 to 15 strokes and then I move the block in the opposite 45 degree angle... continue this method, back and forth, always feeling as to how your progressing, no pressure on the block....it doesn't matter what shape your trying to repair, this method will always follow the contour of the panel.
The Hutchins block is a better block....the dura block is a hard foam block, it does work well, if when you get it it's straight. I've heard of them being bent or crocked either from shipping or packaging...the Hutchins block will be a better investment. Some people swear by the Dura block...I've seen the bent ones...and that just defeats the purpose of a block.
thanks got one in my shopping cart now , goign to see if they have some of the metal body filler spreaders, i cant stand these rubber ones i got from napa
i havent seen them in a long time but back in the racecar shop i rember having some really thin metal ones that were still a bit flexable but had a nice plastic piece were u would grip it
I use metal filler spreaders I've had for years...if for whatever reason filler dries on them...I can sand it off...one of the reasons I still use my DA...LOL
i want a set these rubber things suck , only thing i can find are spackle/putty spreaders and there to thick though i could prolly get by with one just not flexable like the ones i rember using when i was younger
Actually I bought mine about 10 years ago from NAPA...up here in Canada our NAPA Body Shop Supply stores are called C-Max...a package of different sizes cost me about $5.00 Canadian if I remember correctly. I thought it was a great deal and bought 2.
i didnt have much time after work today so i decided to leave the door and quarter panel along till my new sanding block gets here and started striping the hood , i only had about 30 minutes to work so i just started on one section
the black and blue i had on the hood came right off with the 120 grit paper but dam there is something a yellowish color right above the factory primer that is a real ***** shouldnt be to bad once i go grab some 60 or 80 grit discs though
Be careful, you don't want to warp a large panel like that...are you striping the hood with a DA? If so, keep the DA moving, and your paper sharp and fresh, dead paper will generate heat, warp the hood and then your definitely buying that new one...LOL
Ray
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hot Rod Forum
2.2M posts
175.6K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!