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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-14-2014 09:57 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Thanks John.

Great info for guys that have never done these things before.
And for us with experience as well. I like the scribing trick.
That's exactly right, that is what caught my eye. I am big on templates, and they still are a great way to go for anything, it's just good time spent. But often doing the scribing trick that John shows here would work just the same and much faster. I thank you again John!

Brian
08-14-2014 08:32 AM
123pugsy Thanks John.

Great info for guys that have never done these things before.
And for us with experience as well. I like the scribing trick.
08-14-2014 08:29 AM
MARTINSR John, this thread is so damn awesome! Thanks so much for taking the time to lay this stuff out. I see things over and over that click and make so much sense that I wouldn't have done, tips that save a ton of time and just plain get the job done better.

Thank you so much!

Brian
08-13-2014 05:32 PM
John long Once the panel is trimmed so it can sit in place the first bend can be marked. Since the marked line is on the wrong side of the panel it must be transferred to the other side. There are several ways of doing this but one of the easiest is to just lightly center punch the line. Turn the panel over and you can plainly see the dimple from the center punch and now mark the line on the back side of the panel.







Now the panel is marked and the second brake line is laid out as well as the trim line. Since it is impossible to make these two brakes in the middle of the panel it is necessary to limit the rear part to about one inch. I will make the back side of this panel as a separate piece.



The piece is broken and fitted. All that is left is to make the flange that goes over the drive shaft tunnel. This piece will be welded to the back of the panel. The radius is just too tight to make it all one piece.



Wallah. I now have both sides of the support made and just have to make the back side of the panels, fit them to the end brackets, paint the back side, and punch the plug weld holes.

As you can see there is nothing complicated here. Just a bit of patience and the willingness to spend the time to make each piece.

It sure is a good thing we think we are having fun Huh?

08-13-2014 05:08 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
John bring it over. I'll mow it for you!

BB
Thanks BB. I appreciate that.

I made the other side of the cross brace today. Those of you who are experienced don't feel like I am trying to be cocky but I thought maybe some of the guys who are new to this or starting their first project might like to see the simple way of doing this.

I had cut the blank out the other day. The first step was make the flange that welds to the floor board. Since the floor board is not level the bend line must be scribed and the secret to doing this is to keep your scribe absolutely vertical. Only by doing this will you get an accurate cut or bend lime.







In order not to waste any metal, I repeated this process in order to get the line lower on the panel leaving just enough metal for the flange.



Once the piece is cut out the next step is to tip the flange but as mentioned earlier since it is not straight it must be tipped with an English Wheel, Hammer and dolly or as I did with my bead roller.



Unfortunately, Any time you tip a curved flange it will distort the panel. The exception to that is hammer forming but that is a whole different subject.



A few passes with the shrinker jaws and it is straight again.



Since this is getting a little lengthy, I will complete it in the next post.

John
08-12-2014 09:04 PM
boothboy John bring it over. I'll mow it for you!

BB
08-12-2014 06:14 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
You don't have Barb trained on that mower ???

My Barb will mow our 1+ acre if I don't get to it. I think she has only done that once over the past 2 summers, since I'm home all day now...

Just mowed ours today.
She cooks and does laundry......I guess I'll mow........eventually.

John
08-12-2014 05:55 PM
Too Many Projects You don't have Barb trained on that mower ???

My Barb will mow our 1+ acre if I don't get to it. I think she has only done that once over the past 2 summers, since I'm home all day now...

Just mowed ours today.
08-12-2014 05:45 PM
John long There has been so much going on, I have not had the play time I would like but life requires living.

I did make the little reinforcement brackets that go just behind the B pillar and started making the brace that goes across the car under the front of the rear seat.





Here is the beginning of the support.





LOL, the van has a new hub bearing, the house A/C is running again, the toilet is not running now, and one engine is pulled. The second one is mostly loose. Now if someone would just mow my grass.

John
08-09-2014 03:35 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
LOL THAT WAS MY NEXT SUGGESTION .

When do you need bellhousing for trial fit,??
Not until I get the chassis out from under the Hardtop. It will be a while but I really appreciate you thinking of me. I also will need to get a couple of exhaust manifolds for the big block.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hinges56 View Post
Unbelievable! I had no idea. Thanks for clearing that up for me. It's amazing the quality of information that is avalible from all of the pros here. Thanks again! Scott
LOL. The pros are amazing. I am just a hobbiest that has been around the block a few times.....Lots of patience, wantoo, and ego.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hinges56 View Post
Thanks John and I am amazed at the quality of your work, the amount of time you must spend helping us all by recording your progress and how you just zip right through all your work! When you have a problem, you figure it out and fix it. Very impressive. Thanks again, Scott
Actually, the thread here is as much a help to me as anyone. It gives me an awful lot of satisfaction and motivates me to get something done so I will have some progress to post. I am sure I would not have gotten as far as I have if it had not been for the forum.

My pleasure, I promise and thanks to all who follow along.

John
08-09-2014 03:17 PM
hinges56
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
You don't learn if you don't ask Scott.

As you know this conversation came up because I was using a template to make my quarters instead of a buck. The template allows you to check shape one way only, where the buck allows you to check the whole panel every direction at the same time. It is very possible to make a part that the template fits that is still off a lot but if it fits the buck, you know it is right.

Basicly you keep stretching the metal until it all contacts the buck at the same time without being forced.

Ron Covell has a DVD out on how to make a 36 Ford fender from scratch. At least half of the DVD is devoted to making the buck but it is very well done and worth the price for anyone interested in learning metal shaping.

Glad you have enjoyed the build.

I am pulling the motor out of the convertible and it has become harder than I expected. Nothing very interesting, just plain old work.

John
Thanks John and I am amazed at the quality of your work, the amount of time you must spend helping us all by recording your progress and how you just zip right through all your work! When you have a problem, you figure it out and fix it. Very impressive. Thanks again, Scott
08-09-2014 03:08 PM
hinges56
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
It's not for shaping a panel.
It's basically for checking it. You shape your panel using ewheel, planishing hammer, tuck shrinking and then when you're getting close, you drop the panel on the buck. You can then look underneath to find gaps between your panel and the buck and you will know where to adjust.


Edit: Photo is from this website: Sheet Metal Shaping and Forming — Griffith Metal Shaping & Restorations

Unbelievable! I had no idea. Thanks for clearing that up for me. It's amazing the quality of information that is avalible from all of the pros here. Thanks again! Scott
08-09-2014 02:34 PM
496CHEVY3100 LOL THAT WAS MY NEXT SUGGESTION .

When do you need bellhousing for trial fit,??
08-09-2014 01:08 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
John mine might be different since it is a p/u ,my 51 chevy pu I just took loose at torque tube and mount bolts left attached to engine slid it out as 1 unit ,
That is what I thought I could do but not so in the car. The bell housing will not clear either the front body moumts or engine mount stanchions.

The shop manual says to remove the powerglide dip stick and the frame mounts but I cheated. My plasma cutter and I set the house smoke detector off for about 30 minutes......It is on the ground though.

John
08-09-2014 09:48 AM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Big time!

The issue I am having is the vertical side mounts are in the way of the engine coming forward. I have posted on the ChevyTalk forum to see if I can just remove the engine mounts from the engine or do I have take the frame supports off too, If so I have my work cut out for me.

John


John mine might be different since it is a p/u ,my 51 chevy pu I just took loose at torque tube and mount bolts left attached to engine slid it out as 1 unit ,
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