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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 08:36 PM
Too Many Projects You seem to have a couple extra upper control arms in the pile. You making some fancy suspension mod ??

Frame looks great..
Today 07:45 PM
John long Getting the frame blasted is a great mile post. Next pictures should be of a semi gloss black frame. I am going to put 2-3 wet coats of SPI black epoxy primer on it, fill any rust pits with a thin wipe of Rage Ultra and another couple of coats of black epoxy.

The blaster did a really good job. It is exciting to see it in the basement all clean.

John











Hopefully I am just a couple of weeks from getting back to the body. After all, that is what this thread is about. It will be exciting though to see some paint on this chassis and have it waiting for the body.

John
08-06-2016 08:17 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Are you going to need to fab front body mounts and weld them onto the sub ?
Would that happen after blasting and before painting ?
I will have to fab new ones for sure. That is ok because the factory ones are really ugly. On a convertible their main function is to keep the door from sagging. They actually pull down instead of supporting weight.

I am going to paint the frame a semi gloss black using SPI Epoxy as soon as it comes back from blasting. Then I am going to finish the bottom of the floor pans and paint them. After the body and frame are mated and shimmed I will fab the front body mounts. One other thing to consider is I have to fabricate those mounts around the big block. Motor mounts, transmission crossmember as well as body mounts will have to be made.

Touch up of the frame will be required but with the semi gloss I think I can do an acceptable job of it. I do not want to take this thing back of the frame again once it is shimmed.

John

08-06-2016 06:17 PM
Too Many Projects Are you going to need to fab front body mounts and weld them onto the sub ?
Would that happen after blasting and before painting ?
08-06-2016 06:07 PM
John long Just a quick update. The subframe is in and the suspension is torn down. It is just about ready to go to the sand blaster.

I am really anxious to get back to work on the body.

John







07-26-2016 08:14 PM
John long Hey guys. Thought I would drop in for a quick update. I wish I had more shop time but life has to be lived.

I made the ouside plates and welded them in.



Next I made gussets to go inside the plates for rigidity. I have them welded in on both sides.



The templates are made for the inside plates and top plates and hope to get started cutting them out tomorrow.



The plasma cutter has sure payed for itself during this process. This is a picture of the gussets I cut out to go inside the frame rails. This would have been a major job with a cut off disc or band saw.

John

07-22-2016 04:24 PM
John long I have the frame welded up and the inner walls added. Both of these verticle sections will be hidden once the inner and outer sides of the frame are added. They will be buried inside the frame rail for added strength.

John







07-15-2016 08:33 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Is the nova front or rear steer.
Rear steer David. 1974. Last year for this one.

John
07-15-2016 08:23 PM
496CHEVY3100 Is the nova front or rear steer.
07-15-2016 08:04 PM
John long You know, the only centerline I used was the center holes in the sub cross members. Before I cut anything off the sub, I cross measured it from corner to corner as well as corners to the center holes. I also cross measured the convertible frame at several places and it was good also. On top of that, I ran a line from bottom king pin to bottom king pin on the floor and marked that.

I tacked the the sub into position today. The lower ball joints and spindle nuts match the convertible marks plummed on the floor And the front frame horn holes and center hole in the cross member all cross measure to the body mounts on the convertible frame within 1/32". Also, a 4' carpenter square reads exactly the same at 4 locations, 2 on the convertible and 2 on the sub. If it isn't right, I don't know what else I could have done.

I would be willing to bet money, This frame will be closer than the body. Will it need to be shimmed? Of course it will.
John







07-15-2016 12:54 PM
deadbodyman I made a giant mistake when I did my first sub. I assumed both frames I was working with were straight and undamaged so I just took my measurements from the jig holes and didn't use a center line. Well, one wheel wasn't centered in the wheel well when the fender got put on. It wasn't until I ran a center line that I found one rail had been bent in around where the rear door pillar was. Something like this couldn't happen your case though I don't running over it with a bulldozer could bend that frame in the middle.
The Camaro that I got my sub out of didn't have any sheet metal at all on it (that's why I picked it, less work) if it did I would have looked closer because one rail was up about a 1/2 " it wasn't worth fixing so I got another one. Glad I caught that one. Common enough mistakes anyone could make but need to be watchful of. nobody wants to find out a frame was bent AFTER its all done and cant be aligned. You got to remember, these subs are about 30 yrs old most all of them have been in an accident, heck its tough to find a 5yr old car that hasn't been in an accident. Running a few reference lines before getting started isn't complicated and can save a lot of grief.
07-15-2016 06:44 AM
idrivejunk Hey John, since I'm not sure how much collision repair you've been around I'm gonna drop a couple links here in case a little more info about measuring is needed, for 100% confidence. The principle of a datum plane is very helpful in measuring big oddly shaped items such as your frame:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datum_reference

That is something you can establish even if your floor is less than level. A guy needs a flat, level reference to check progress with and thats what an imaginary datum plane provides. In addition, some folks make jigs to avoid repeating some measurements a lot while a chassis is under construction.

Here is a basic article that touches on the subject:

Measuring Basics - Body Shop Business

Bear in mind that for insurance work on late model body-on-frame vehicles, the unspoken tolerance is 5-7 mm. Older vehicles are rarely even within 1/4" over the length of the chassis. This is accumulated variances of length, width, and height, and on modern unibodies the spec is 1-3mm. Yikes!

I have measured just as many vehicles without computerized measuring systems as with. My structural repairs are well accepted. I confidently tell people if their frame "is OK" or not because I've studied and applied the knowledge successfully for years. However I don't splice frames, nobody ever asked me to. So the metallurgy and integrity of such is not my bag, but I'm just offering up some measuring coaching because thats what I can do.
07-14-2016 06:44 AM
deadbodyman Well John. I WILL be hard on you because were friends and I know you can handle it, Plus YOU know how I am sugar coating aint my thang.
First I don't see any type of center line they both need a visible center and well marked, thats where everything is measured from, curves and tappers mean nothing the center is everything get both frames in line then slide the sub back or forward for the correct wheel base. If your sub goes off center line it back up at a glance.
Lawyers always say don't ask a question that you don't know the answer to, along those lines I always say Never cut if you don't have a solid plan to go by. Having both frames cut at this point removes a lot of options.
Here in Ga. a frame can not be cut and butted together even if its sleeved all four cuts (top, bottom and sides) need to be staggered by 6-8 inches, so the outside cut and the inside cut will be 6-8" apart same with the top and bottom. like the seams in a brick wall.
I haven't been looking at your frame as long as you have but my first impression was to leave the rails and cut out the cross member, then remove the cross member from the sub and only use that and its suspension. But THATS me, You may have something better and easier in mind but mainly I just don't see how any of this can be done without knowing where center is on both frames. That cant be changed so its perfect reference line. Something to think about anyways.
07-14-2016 06:32 AM
idrivejunk John, yes that picture explains a lot. I can read your little "this goes here" marks and understand completely. What maybe I missed was the solution to solve track width. I won't poke with stick, just wait for that part to come up. The discussion has been a little scattered between this and the today thread so it will be cool if you pile it all in a thread. Keep on rockin'.

Mark, color consistency is something you either do or nobody buys the paint. Just like cars have to run. You guys are blessed to be near the source of your favorite brand.
07-14-2016 06:06 AM
Too Many Projects Not being hard on you, just offering a different view of how the merge could be accomplished. I'm certain you will blend it to look good, my concern was achieving structural integrity with the rails so far offset.
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